The Top 15 Travel Destinations in Latvia

Latvia has seen a steadily increasing flow of western tourists since it joined the European Union in 2004, but almost ninety percent of visitors still never get beyond Riga, the flamboyant capital and largest city. This means the rest of the country is still largely unexplored and just waiting to be discovered by those prepared to venture a little further afield. Distances are relatively small, and there are many worthwhile destinations within day trip distance of Riga by public transport. For those intent on exploring the countryside the tranquil town of Sigulda and the Gauja valley national park is an obvious starting point with crumbling castle ruins to clamber on and sporty outdoor activities galore, while windy Cape Kolka is the best place to find your own stretch of Baltic beachfront to go for a stroll. For those eager to get a taste of Latvia's Soviet past there are several top sites, particularly the Irbene radio telescope and the 'hotel' located in a former KGB prison in Liepaja.

1. Riga - As the biggest city in the Baltic states Riga draws plenty of tourists with its photogenic good looks. The assortment of medieval and art nouveau architecture will have you straining your neck skywards trying to take it all in with a camera lens. Heaps of cultural attractions and museums could keep you busy here for weeks, while the gastronomic scene is constantly evolving with flashy new restaurants opening at a hectic pace. Give Riga at least a few days to rub off on you, but then hop on a bus and go and see the rest of the country, you won't regret it!

2. Sigulda - A lovely historic town with castles overlooking the Gauja valley and walking trails to caves along the valley floor. Thrill seekers can try out the Olympic-standard bobsleigh track in a real bobsleigh for a cool rush in the winter, or in a wheeled model in the summer months.

3. Jurmala - The main beach resort in Latvia with long sandy beaches which draw sun seekers from nearby Riga. The many art-nouveau wooden houses that line the main boulevards are another prime attraction to take a peek at after getting sand between your toes.

4. Cesis - Often called 'The Most Latvian Town', Cesis has a picturesque collection of old wooden houses surrounding a 13th-century castle in its historic quarter. Close proximity to attractions in the Guaja Valley National Park make Cesis a good base for exploring the area.

5. Rundale Palace - A baroque palace designed by Rastrelli in the 1730's, which today is one of the grandest palace complexes in the Baltic states. Its location near the southern border makes it a convenient stopover for those heading south from Riga into Lithuania.

6. Cape Kolka and the northern Kurzeme coast - A beautiful and desolate stretch of wind-battered coastline which fills with swimmers and sunbathers during the summer months. The small villages of the Kurzeme coast are full of rustic wooden cottages, fishing nets, and the smell of smoked fish. Learn about the Livs and the endangered Livonian language, a small ethnic group found in this region.

7. Kuldiga - This is one of the most attractive small towns in Latvia, boasting narrow streets and 17th and 18th century wooden buildings. The town's other claim to fame is for having the widest waterfall in Europe, though don't be expecting a mighty torrent cascading down a mountainside.

8. Ventspils - This busy port has done well for itself economically in the past two decades and as a result its historic centre has been spruced up considerably. The city draws summer visitors to nearby beaches and water parks, and the waterfront also features an outdoor maritime museum. The city's castle of the Livonian order also contains a fascinating museum on the history of the region.

9. Irbene Soviet radio telescope - For those interested in cold war history, this should be an essential stop. Once upon a time this was a Soviet radar station used to spy on western communications transmissions, and today it is used by Latvian astronomers to study the universe. Guided tours of the facility can be arranged, including the chance to climb up near the giant dish.

10. Liepaja - This coastal city is the third largest urban centre in Latvia and its central streets feature an array of art nouveau buildings. Latvians think of Liepaja as a great place to let their hair down and have a good time, and its series of summer events and music festivals are a popular draw with visitors from across the country. Stay for a night in the former KGB prison in the suburb of Karosta for an uncomfortable taste of reality tourism.

11. Ligatne Soviet nuclear bunker - This cold war site is found halfway between Sigulda and Cesis, and can be easily combined into a day trip to these towns from Riga. The bunker was intended to house the leaders of the Latvian communist party in the event of a nuclear attack, and today it has been preserved in its original appearance for visitors to see.

12. Salaspils - This World War Two concentration camp just outside Riga is a sombre reminder of the thousands of Jews who died here during the Nazi occupation.

13. Talsi - This tiny town is worth a brief stop on the way north towards Cape Kolka. The hills surrounding the town are a rarity in this part of the Baltics and add a backdrop to the set of cobbled streets and handful of historic houses.

14. Kemeri National Park - This park just west of Jurmala features small fishing villages with bog land and forests in the interior. It is best known for mud baths and mineral water treatments at the park's spa resort.

15. Tukums - A few kilometres from this small town in Kurzeme region is one of the country's most-visited attractions (at least by Latvians), a theme park historic town called "Cinevilla" which was constructed for a movie made in 2004.

Day Trips and Overnight Excursions from Moscow, Russia - The Top 25 Destinations

The region surrounding Moscow contains many of Russia's greatest historical monuments, from the architectural splendour of the Golden Ring towns to the numerous sites connected to literary and political heavyweights such as Chekhov, Tolstoy and Lenin. The main attractions of the Golden Ring, especially Suzdal, should be on everyone's visit list, though for a more authentic experience there are plenty of less-visited historic towns such as Alexandrov or Yurev-Polsky within day trip distance of the capital. Some of these attractions are far enough from Moscow that an overnight trip is advisable (such as Suzdal or Yaroslavl), while others such as Plyos or Kostroma are far enough to warrant a stay of at least one or two nights. The photographs in this article show, from top to bottom, Moscow, Suzdal, Rostov-Veliky, Sergiev Posad, Pereslavl-Zalessky, Vladimir, Bogolyubovo, Uglich and Khotkovo.


***** SUZDAL - (4 hours 30 minutes) By bus directly from Shchyolkovsky bus station in Moscow, or by bus from outside Kurskaya train station in Moscow to Vladimir, then change to a bus or marshrutka to Suzdal

**** ROSTOV-VELIKY - (3 hours) By train from Yaroslavsky station in Moscow

**** SERGIEV POSAD - (1 hour to 1 hour 30 minutes) By train from Yaroslavl station in Moscow

**** PERESLAVL-ZALESSKY - (2 hours 30 minutes) By bus from Shchyolkovsky bus station

*** VLADIMIR - (2 hours 30 minutes to 3 hours 30 minutes) - By train from Kurskaya station in Moscow, or by bus from outside Kurskaya station

*** BOGOLYUBOVO - (4 hours) By bus or train to Vladimir from Kurskaya station in Moscow, then take a marshrutka to Bogolyubovo

*** UGLICH - (4 hours 30 minutes) By train to Rostov-Veliky from Yaroslavsky station in Moscow, then catch a bus to Uglich

*** YAROSLAVL - (4 hours) By train from Yaroslavsky station in Moscow

*** KOSTROMA -(6 hours to six hours 30 minutes) By train from Yaroslavsky station in Moscow, or by train to Yaroslavl and then by bus to Kostroma

*** PLYOS - (7 hours to 9 hours) By train to Ivanovo from Yaroslavsky station in Moscow, then by bus to Plyos, or by bus/train to Vladimir, change to a bus to Ivanovo, and change again to a bus to Plyos

*** MUROM - (4 hours 15 minutes to 4 hours 40 minutes) By train from Kazansky station in Moscow

** TVER - (1 hour 50 minutes to 2 hours 30 minutes) By train from Kurskaya or Oktyabrskaya stations in Moscow

** YUREV-POLSKY - (2 hours 30 minutes to 3 hours) By train to Alexandrov from Yaroslavsky station in Moscow, then change to another train to Yurev-Polsky

** YASNAYA POLYANA (Tolstoy's estate) - (3 hours to 4 hours) By train from Kurskaya station in Moscow

** KIDEKSHA - (4 hours 40 minutes) By bus from Shchyolkovsky station in Moscow to Suzdal, then catch a local marshrutka to Kideksha. The town makes a nice short side trip from Suzdal since Kideksha is just 4km away

** PALEKH - (8 hours to 9 hours) By train to Ivanovo from Yaroslavsky station in Moscow, then by bus to Palekh

** KLIN - (1 hour 30 minutes) By train from Leningradsky station in Moscow

** ISTRA - (1 hour 30 minutes) By train from Rizhsky station in Moscow

** ABRAMTSEVO - (1 hour 10 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes) By train from Yaroslavsky station in Moscow

** ALEXANDROV - (1 hour 35 minutes to 1 hour 50 minutes) By train from Yaroslavsky station in Moscow

** MELIKHOVO (Chekhov's estate) - (2 hours) By train from Kurskaya station in Moscow to the town of Chekhov, then take a bus to Melikhovo

** GORKI LENINSKIE (Lenin's estate) - (30 minutes) By bus from Domodedovskaya metro station in Moscow

** PEREDELKINO (Boris Pasternak's estate) - (20 minutes) By train from Kievskaya station in Moscow

** BORODINO Battlefield Museum - (2 hours) By train from Belorussky station in Moscow

* KHOTKOVO - (1 hour 15 minutes) By train from Yaroslavsky station in Moscow

Beautiful Towns # 10 - Slavonice, Czech Republic

Located just one kilometre from the Austrian border and surrounded by rolling green hills, Slavonice is one of the most captivating small towns in the Czech Republic. Since it is still off the radar for most international tourists, the town retains a relaxed provincial feel fused with a dose of artistic and cultural flair due to the many Czech artists who have taken up residence and opened studios and galleries in the historic buildings. Found at the point where the historical regions of Moravia, Bohemia and Austria meet, the town has traditionally been considered part of Moravia but today it is included in the region of South Bohemia.

With two squares jam-packed with ornate buildings smothered in sgraffito facades and nary a concrete building in sight, it's easy to see why Slavonice is a cut above the average Czech border town. The facades are the most impressive and extensive to be found on Czech soil, and they are among the finest anywhere in the former lands of the Austro-Hungarian empire.

The town went through a prolonged period of riches and prosperity lasting from the 14th to 16th centuries with its place on the main trading route between Prague and Vienna guaranteeing a steady stream of commerce to fund the construction of grand renaissance buildings. However, the main trade route was eventually moved to the east passing through the Czech frontier town of Znojmo, and the boom times came to a close in Slavonice.

The town's population was predominantly German-speaking before World War II, but the end of the war brought the mass expulsion of the German population from the Czech lands and the population of Slavonice dropped to a fraction of its former size. During the Communist period from 1948 to 1989 Czechs were not encouraged to resettle in the houses left vacant by the former German inhabitants, so the town became a ghostly shell of its former self.

Under the Communists the frontier with Austria was a highly restricted military zone as part of the iron curtain, and as a result Slavonice was essentially cocooned and prevented from growing or developing. Today this can be considered a blessing, since it effectively protected the town from having any ugly and tasteless concrete buildings constructed in its midst by Communist planners.

Nowadays, Slavonice has developed a strong reputation as a haven for Czech artists and writers who wish to escape to a beautiful corner of the countryside for creative inspiration far from the capital. There are several studios and workshops which have set up shop, and international artists, especially from Austria, have taken notice and begun to frequent the town as well.

In the early 1990's both Slavonice and the nearby town of Telč were promoting themselves as potential UNESCO heritage site candidates, but at the last minute the town council in Slavonice decided to withdraw its bid, so only Telč was placed on the UNESCO list in 1992. I expect that the townsfolk and artists in Slavonice simply decided that they preferred to keep their town low-key and liveable, and to let Telč handle the tour buses and mainstream international attention.

Slavonice is becoming increasingly popular with cyclists, and it features prominently in organized cycling trips across the country. It is possible to walk, cycle or drive the one kilometre south to the border, and from there the Austrian village of Fratres is less than one kilometre further on. Getting to Slavonice by public transport is easiest by train coming from Jihlava (passing through Telč on the way), though buses also connect the town to Jindřichův Hradec, Jihlava and Prague. While taking the two-carriage regional train south from Jihlava it feels like you're approaching the ends of the earth, and when the train pulls into the station in Slavonice it is truly the end of the line, with the Austrian frontier within sight.

Beautiful Towns # 9 - Čičmany, Slovakia

The village of Čičmany is located in hilly, forested countryside in Žilina region in western Slovakia. It lies in a forested valley among the Strážov mountains, close to the source of the Rajčianka river, and today has less than 400 inhabitants. The settlement is renowned for the local tradition of painting white geometric patterns on its dark wooden cottages. These folk patterns are based on the local lacework designs used on fabric and clothing.

The village also has unique folk costumes, songs and dances which have all been carefully preserved and are still practiced today. A local folklore group performs music and dances at special events throughout the year, and there and a number of cultural events organized in the summer months.

Fires which occurred in 1907, 1921 and 1945 destroyed many of the folk cottages but most of them were repeatedly rebuilt in the traditional manner. The fire in 1921 was especially serious, burning down more than half of the cottages in the village. Special funding was provided by the Czechoslovak government to rebuild most of the houses.

The history of the village begins in 1272, when it was recorded as a settlement with a newly-built road. There are several competing theories about the founding of the village, the main ones being that the original inhabitants were German settlers, or that they were Bulgarian immigrants fleeing from the Turks who came north and settled in the region.

The traditional occupations of Čičmany residents were farming and sheep herding, and sheep's cheese was produced and sold throughout the region. The origin of the name "Čičmany", meaning 'homestead in the hills', probably comes from an ancient Indo-European word which was incorporated into the Old Slavonic language.

Through the centuries the village had many different feudal landlords, but by the start of the 20th century most of the land was owned by two Hungarian families. It was difficult for the peasant farmers to make a living in this region, and emigration, especially to North America, became a common choice for many. Other local families moved to France, Belgium and Austria in search of greater prosperity.

Living in the pretty cottages of the village was not always comfortable in the past - before the 20th century it was quite common to have three or even four generations of a family living together under one roof, sometimes up to 20 people in one building. Only one main room would have been heated by a stove in the winter, and the younger members of the family would have their beds in the upper attic while the oldest generation slept nearest to the wood stove for extra warmth.

The gingerbread-style decorations which cover the wooden beams of the cottages were painted with a mixture composed of white lime. The painting process was intended to conserve and protect the wooden beams in addition to its attractive appearance. The custom is thought to have begun more than 200 years ago, and there are several explanations for where the idea came from, including Bulgarian folk customs.

Another theory about the founding of the village and the origin of the cottage decorations says that during the time of the Tatar raids from the east in the 13th century local Slavic peasants sought safety up in this remote mountain region. Well-protected and isolated from the outside world, the peasants established a community in the valley and kept sheep and cattle. The women of the village created embroidery designs for their clothing with folk symbols that represented their way of life.

These embroidery symbols were then added to the cottages, perhaps in the hope that the symbols would bring good fortune to the cottage occupants. The symbols seen on the cottages today include arrows, clovers, hearts, crosses and several different kinds of animals. Until the devastating fire of 1921, most of the cottages in the village had two floors, but today only one example of this type of structure still exists in the settlement.

Many painted cottages were again destroyed during World War Two, when German soldiers set part of the village on fire. Another large rebuilding project began afterwards, including repainting the decorative white patterns on the logs of the buildings.

One of my favourite experiences in Čičmany is walking the streets of the lower part of the village at night when the lantern shrines are lit; two Catholic shrines on street corners are lit by candles which can be seen far off down the lane as a yellow glow to guide you past the painted cottages whose white patterns are dimly visible in the dark.

Another worthwhile experience is to climb the hill to the east of the village at dusk to get a view of the pattern made by the jumble of rooftops with the white church standing out above them. You can also look for a unique Catholic cross which is along one of the hiking trails a short distance to the east; it is surrounded by four large trees which must have been intentionally planted around it more than a century ago.

In the winter the snow can be knee-deep, and the local ski resort of Javorinka on a nearby hill becomes a popular destination with locals. In the summer months the slopes of Javorinka are used by cyclists and as a launching area for paragliding and hang gliding. Mushroom picking in the surrounding forests is another favourite local activity.

Nowadays all of the lower part of the village is a protected folk architecture reserve, with 110 listed heritage buildings including 36 which have the status of national monuments. Plans were created to establish the reserve in 1974, and it became the world's first such protected village three years later.

Two of the cottages are open to the public as a museum of traditional life, with exhibits on the history and culture of the village. Tickets are available in Radenov house, the large cottage with two floors, and the second cottage with indoor displays is the one directly across the street. There is also a small craft shop selling locally produced products such as embroidery and a few souvenirs.

There are several different accommodation options in the village, and staying for the night is highly recommended so that you can experience the village fully. The Penzion Javorina offers comfortable rooms in the middle of the village and has its own restaurant serving all the traditional Slovak dishes. There are several other cottages which are available for rent, though these are usually intended for larger groups of people staying for at least a weekend or longer.

There are hiking trails leading off into the hills in every direction from Čičmany, leading to valleys with other remote villages. Some of these villages have decorated cottages, but none have designs as unique or impressive as those found in Čicmany. A good day hike from Čičmany can be made heading west on the red-marked trail to the village of Zliechov, stopping for the views from the peak called Strážov on the way. From Zliechov it's possible to take a green-marked trail north and then a yellow-marked trail east to return to Čičmany in a loop. This circle route takes about 5.5 hours in total, so bring a lunch for a picnic somewhere along the trail. Zliechov has a small local pub where it is possible to get beer, water and light snacks.

Getting to Čičmany by public transport is easiest by bus from the city of Žilina, which is on the main train line across Slovakia with direct connections to Bratislava and Prague. Buses go directly to the village from Žilina several times per day from Monday to Friday (50 minutes), though less frequently on Saturdays and Sundays.

Many more buses travel along the main road from Žilina to Prievidza which can drop you off at the turning point for the small local road up into the hills to Čičmany. If you take the bus and ask to get off at this turn off point, it's about a seven kilometre walk in along the road to the village, or you can try to hitchhike with locals to cover this distance. Another good option is to get off one stop further along the main road where a scenic hiking trail (follow the red markers) leads over the hills to Čičmany, taking about 2.5 to 3 hours.

Natural Wonders # 3 - Czech Paradise Rock Towns, Czech Republic

The Czech Paradise (Český Raj) is a region to the north-east of Prague which features unusual sandstone rock formations among its dense forests. Many castles are scattered among these 'rock towns', as well as small villages full of traditional wooden folk architecture. There are at least five different interesting routes for hiking in the Czech Paradise that can be made as day trips from Prague with public transport.

One of the best choices is a hike that includes the ruin of Trosky castle, Hrubá Skála rock town and Valdštejn castle. From Prague's central station take the train to Turnov and then change to a local train which goes east to the village of Ktová (the total travel time from Prague is about 2 hours and 20 minutes). A green-marked trail starts from the train station in Ktová which leads straight up to Trosky castle. After visiting the castle you can follow the red-marked trail north to Hrubá Skála chateau and then into the rock city area on the yellow trail until you reach the ruins of Valdštejn castle. This is a nice place to take a rest, since there is a small restaurant with drinks and food available in front of the castle entrance. From there it's an easy downhill walk into the town of Turnov on the red trail, where you can take a train back to Prague.

The most impressive castle in the Český Raj region is Kost castle, to the south of the Hrubá Skála area. It's possible to include a visit to this castle in a nice day hike starting from the small town of Sobotka, which has an interesting chateau called Humprecht on a nearby hill and some examples of traditional wooden folk architecture. The most convenient way to get to Sobotka is by bus from outside Prague's Černý Most metro station, it takes about one hour and ten minutes. A red-marked trail from Sobotka leads to Kost castle along a picturesque river valley. It's also worth making a detour to the nearby village of Vesec u Sobotky which has some beautiful wooden folk cottages.

One of the highlights of the Czech Paradise is Prachovské Skály rock town, near the town of Jičín (which is a much more interesting and historical town than Turnov). To get there take the bus to Jičín from outside Prague Černý Most metro station, then get a local bus from the bus station in Jičín to the bus stop called Holín Skalní Město which is at the edge of the rock city. The main valley where the rock city is located is small, but a web of trails go over, under and through the rock formations and it's worth spending a full afternoon exploring them.

Suché Skály rock town is found near the pretty little town of Malá Skála, which makes a nice destination together with the nearby Frýdštejn castle ruin. To get there take the train from Prague's main station to the town of Turnov, then change to a local train to get to Malá Skála. A red-marked path leads up the hill to the Suché Skály formations. On the opposite side of the river from Malá Skála the castle of Frýdštejn sits on top of a rocky pillar. The red-marked path leads along the river to the south from there, offering great views back towards the castle.

Another option to try is the Přihrazké Skály rock town with its impressive Valečov castle ruin. To get there take the train from Prague's main station to the town of Mnichovo Hradiště and then walk east along the red trail to reach the rock town. There are two other smaller castle ruins among the rocks to the north of Valečov along the red-marked trail, while the finest formations in the rock town are further east along the blue trail.

These are a few interesting options, but there are many more worthwhile hikes to make in the Czech Paradise and public transport connections from Prague are generally good, at least to the towns in the region. Many shops in Prague sell hiking maps of the Czech Paradise region which show the trail routes and distances. If you want to check any bus or train times in the Czech Republic or Slovakia, use the website www.vlak-bus.cz (you can change the language to English in the lower-right corner of the page).

The photos displayed in this post show, from top to bottom: Rock climbers in Hrubá Skála rock town; a view from the top of a rock outcrop in Hrubá Skála rock town; Rock pillars in Hrubá Skála rock town; Kost castle; Humprecht chateau on a hill near Sobotka; Views over Hrubá Skála; Part of the main valley of Prachovské Skály rock town; A traditional folk cottage near Sobotka; The main entrance to Humprecht chateau.