Amazing Architecture # 3 - Pustevny, Czech Republic

Pustevny is a hilltop ensemble of gingerbread-style folk buildings in the Valašsko region of the Czech Republic close to the border with Slovakia. The surrounding Beskyd mountains are popular with hikers in the summer and skiers in the winter, and there is a chairlift in operation to carry visitors up the mountain to the village.

The buildings were designed by Slovak architect Dušan Jurkovič and constructed together with local Moravian master builder Michal Urbánek in the 1890's, drawing upon traditional Slavic folk art and building styles of the Valašsko region and the Carpathian Mountains. The final appearance of the buidlings also incorporates elements of the Art Nouveau style which was prominent at that time. Construction began in 1897 and was completed in 1899. Jurkovič also designed several other wooden buildings with a classical Slavic folk style in the present-day Czech Republic, such as the spa buildings in Luhačovice or the covered bridge in the castle gardens in Nové Město nad Metují.

The two most famous buildings in Pustevny are named Libušín and Maměnka, and they sit side by side together on top of the hill. Maměnka houses accommodation and has a wooden interior decorated in a similar style to the exterior, with traditional expressions and sayings painted on the walls.

Libušín is a restaurant serving traditional Wallachian and Moravian dishes. The name of Libušín comes from the legendary Czech princess Libuše. The interior of Libušín is decorated with beautiful frescoes designed by Mikoláš Aleš based on Wallach and Slovak folk legends. Art Nouveau-style chandeliers add a further touch of elegance to the dining room.

Another famous feature of the architectural collection at Pustevny is a small bell tower which stands near the trail head for the climb to the top of Radhošť mountain. The tower was designed by Jurkovič in the same distinctive Wallachian style as the other buildings and is a valuable example of Slavic folk art.

Further up the hill towards the summit of Radhošť there is a stone statue of the Slavic pagan god Radegast, while at the highest point there is a wooden chapel dedicated to Saints Cyril and Methodius, the patron saints of Moravia. Several festivals and special events take place in Pustevny each year, with the Snow Sculpture competition held in January among the most popular.

On 3 March 2014 a large fire in Pustevny caused extensive damage to the folk cottage called Libušín. The open air museum in Rožnov pod Radhoštěm declared that it was committed to rebuilding Libušín as faithfully as possible according to the original design. This project was expected to cost tens of millions of Czech Crowns and a fund for public donations was established. Benefit concerts were also held to get the funding campaign started.

There are several ways to get to Pustevny depending on the direction you approach it from. A road up the mountain from the southern side ends with a parking area just below Pustevny, and several buses per day run to the village from the nearby town and regional tourist hub of Rožnov pod Radhoštěm. Hiking trails also lead from the eastern end of Rožnov pod Radhoštěm to the summit of Radhošť mountain and onwards to Pustevny. For those who prefer a relaxed trip to the top there is a chairlift in operation in both winter and summer which connects Pustevny with the village of Trojanovice at the base of the mountain on the north side.

Day Trips From Lviv, Ukraine - The Top 30 Destinations

Lviv is a gorgeous city of cobbled squares and laneways to wander in for a few days. Its crumbling buildings from the days of Austro-Hungary wouldn't look out of place in Krakow or Prague, but the absence of tourists in the old Galician capital lends it an authenticity which neither of those cities can offer nowadays. Beyond the historic centre there are two more worthwhile sights in the outskirts, the Lviv Outdoor Folk Architecture Museum and the highly atmospheric Lychakiv cemetery. There are also many attractive historic towns, monasteries, castles and wooden churches within range of a day trip by public transport. Natural attractions with potential for hiking lie to the south in the forested foothills of the Carpathian mountains. This list includes the top thirty day trips to make in the surrounding countryside of Lviv region, ranked in order of their general tourist appeal. The so-called "Golden Horseshoe" route, with a name which is reminiscent of Moscow's "Golden Ring" of historic towns, includes Olesko castle, Pidhirtsi castle and Zolochiv castle, which are among the most popular day trip destinations for tour groups. All of these destinations can be reached by train, bus or marshrutka with a little effort, so go ahead and try exploring a bit further afield.

1. Pochayiv Monastery - One of the finest monasteries in Ukraine, and the most important monastery of the Orthodox church in the western part of the country. It rivals the Pechersk monastery in Kyiv in size and historical significance. Since the monastery lies more than 100 kilometres east of Lviv this is a fairly long day trip by bus or marshrutka, but is certainly worth the effort to see one of the region's best attractions.

2. Zhovkva - This historic town to the north of Lviv boasts a castle, a historic central square and town centre packed with centuries-old churches, and a UNESCO-listed wooden church at the edge of town. There is also another impressive wooden church to see in the neighbouring village of Stara Skvaryana. This is one of the easiest day trips from Lviv and among the most enjoyable. Arriving by marshrutka is the fastest and easiest method.

3. Olesko Castle - This 14th-century hilltop castle east of Lviv forms part of the "Golden Horseshoe" sightseeing route and is one of the most visited castles in Lviv region.

4. Zolochiv Castle - This 17th-century castle (though it looks more like a palace) lies 60 kilometres east of Lviv. The Chinese Palace within the castle grounds is particularly impressive.

5. Ivano-Frankivsk - This city to the south of Lviv features a collection of architectural gems from its long history, including many buildings from the Austro-Hungarian period. The city's cathedral, Armenian church and unusual town hall are among the most impressive sights.

6. Lutsk - This historic city to the north-east of Lviv has an old town centre with many impressive churches and cathedrals and a large castle complex.

7. Pidhirtsi Castle - This 17th-century castle (though like Zolochiv castle it looks more like a palace) lies to the east of Lviv not far from Olesko castle.

8. Kremenets - A hilltop castle ruin and historic centre with many Orthodox churches and a monastery are the main draws in this town to the north-east of Lviv. Many people try to combine a visit here with Pochayiv monastery, though it would be ambitious to try to see both in a day by public transport.

9. Drohobych - This town south of Lviv features a clutch of Austro-Hungarian buildings, but its main attractions are its two outstanding wooden churches, including one with UNESCO heritage listing.

10. Tustan Rock Fortress - A castle stronghold which was carved out of towering sandstone rock outcrops near the village of Urych, to the south of Lviv near the town of Boryslav. This is one of the best natural attractions near Lviv and offers good hiking in the surrounding forested hills.

11. Univ Monastery - The only Lavra monastery of the Greek Catholic church in Ukraine. Its large white defensive walls surround a church, bell tower and ecclesiastical buildings. It lies in the village of Univ, which is 40 kilometres east of Lviv.

12. Svirzh Castle - A 15th-century fortified residence which is surrounded by a series of lakes which once helped to defend it from attack. This is a relatively easy day trip since the castle lies just 35 kilometres south-east of Lviv near the town of Bibrka.

13. Krekhiv Monastery - A 16th-century fortified Basilian monastery found to the north of Lviv near the town of Zhovkva.

14. Stare Selo castle - The sprawling ruins of this 17th-century castle lie in Stare Selo village, less than 20 kilometres south-east of Lviv. There is also a wooden church to see in the neighbouring village of Cherepyn.

15. Dovbush Rock Fortress - A fortress carved out of the tall sandstone rock outcrops near the village of Bubnyshche, lying to the south of the city of Stryi, near the town of Bolekhiv. Legends claim that this was once the hideout of the Carpathian outlaw Oleksa Dovbush.

16. Rozhirche Cave Monastery - A monastery in caves carved out of the rock of a hillside. Monks dug the series of tunnels and rooms between the 13th and 16th centuries. The village of Rozhirche is south of Lviv close to the Dovbush Rock Fortress, and both can be combined into a single day trip (if travelling by car).

17. Halych - This small town to the south-east of Lviv features a ruined castle, and the neighbouring village of Krylos contains an Outdoor Folk Architecture museum which includes a reconstructed wooden church among other historic farm buildings and cottages.

18. Sambir - A historic small town to the south-west of Lviv near the Polish border, with several beautiful old churches.

19. Rohatyn - This small town to the south-east of Lviv contains a very impressive UNESCO-listed wooden church.

20. Mount Parashka - This is the highest point in the Skole Beskids National Park at 1268 metres. The trail to the top makes for a very scenic day hike through mountain meadows full of wild flowers in the summer.

21. Truskavets - This picturesque spa town to the south of Lviv contains many 19th-century Austro-Hungarian buildings. The many wooden villas surround the source of fourteen mineral water springs.

22. Zymne Monastery - This is a 13th-century fortified Orthodox monastery to the north of Lviv. The thick walls, battlements and towers which surround the complex once provided formidable defensive capabilities.

23. Potelych - A small village with a UNESCO-listed wooden church near the Polish border to the north-west of Lviv.

24. Kuty - One of the finest wooden churches in Lviv region can be seen in the small village of Kuty, just north of Olesko Castle. It was constructed in 1697.

25. Pidkamin Monastery - This 17th-century fortified monastery lies east of Lviv in the village of Pidkamin. The village takes its name ('Pidkamin' means 'Below the Rock') from the huge boulder on the hilltop at the edge of the settlement.

26. Komarno - An 18th-century wooden church in the Boyko style lies in this small town south of Lviv. There is also another impressive wooden church in the neighbouring village of Klitsko, 2 kilometres away from Komarno.

27. Belz - A 17th-century wooden church can be seen in this town to the north-west of Lviv near the Polish border.

28. Cherche - This village to the south-east of Lviv on the road towards Rohatyn contains one of the oldest wooden churches in the region.

29. Berestechko - A collection of historic churches dominate this small town to the north-east from Lviv.

30. Kuhaiv - A very old wooden church stands in this small village 15 kilometres south of Lviv.

Wooden Churches of the Carpathian Mountains # 24 - Maršíkov, Czech Republic

This large timber church stands in the small village of Maršíkov in the Jeseníky region of North Moravia in the Czech Republic. It was built in 1609 using wooden beams taken from an older wooden church which had been dismantled in the nearby town of Velké Losiny. The wooden church in the village of Žárová, a few kilometres north of Velké Losiny, was constructed in 1610 with wood taken from the same dismantled church.

The church in Maršíkov was originally Lutheran, and was dedicated to the Archangel Michael. It is considered to be one of the finest examples of late-period Renaissance folk architecture in the Czech Republic. Up until the early 1900's a low stone wall surrounded the church and the village cemetery which was located directly behind it. The cemetery was moved to a location on higher ground further away from the road.

The interior contains unique Rococo-style decorations from the late 18th century. The main altar includes a painting of the Archangel Michael, while the side altars depict the Virgin Mary and Saint John of Nepomuk. The walls of the nave are covered with timber boards with overlapping joints and are painted in dark red and grey. In the choir above the entrance area there is an organ from the 18th century.

The wooden steeple at the centre of the roof line is topped with a large onion dome which is grander in scale than those usually seen on the 17th and 18th century wooden churches found in this region. The dovetail joint interlocking system used to connect the ends of the wooden beams is typical for wooden churches in Silesia and northern parts of Moravia and East Bohemia.

The key for the church is kept by the family which lives in the house directly in front of the church entrance. They are used to opening it a few times per week for Czech and German bus tour groups, but they may be a little hesitant to do so for individual tourists who come unannounced, especially if they are busy with other activities. Offering them a donation for the church (50 to 100 crowns) might provide the right encouragement.

The village of Maršíkov isn't serviced by buses very frequently, but it is an easy two-kilometre walk from the town of Velké Losiny, which has frequent train and bus connections with Šumperk and Zábřeh, both of which have regular connections with Olomouc, Prague and other parts of the country. There are several restaurants and accommodation options available in Velké Losiny because tourists come to visit the spa, chateau and hand-made paper museum in the town and use it as a base for hiking in the Jeseníky mountains.

Beautiful Towns # 9 - Čičmany, Slovakia

The village of Čičmany is located in hilly, forested countryside in Žilina region in western Slovakia. It lies in a forested valley among the Strážov mountains, close to the source of the Rajčianka river, and today has less than 400 inhabitants. The settlement is renowned for the local tradition of painting white geometric patterns on its dark wooden cottages. These folk patterns are based on the local lacework designs used on fabric and clothing.

The village also has unique folk costumes, songs and dances which have all been carefully preserved and are still practiced today. A local folklore group performs music and dances at special events throughout the year, and there and a number of cultural events organized in the summer months.

Fires which occurred in 1907, 1921 and 1945 destroyed many of the folk cottages but most of them were repeatedly rebuilt in the traditional manner. The fire in 1921 was especially serious, burning down more than half of the cottages in the village. Special funding was provided by the Czechoslovak government to rebuild most of the houses.

The history of the village begins in 1272, when it was recorded as a settlement with a newly-built road. There are several competing theories about the founding of the village, the main ones being that the original inhabitants were German settlers, or that they were Bulgarian immigrants fleeing from the Turks who came north and settled in the region.

The traditional occupations of Čičmany residents were farming and sheep herding, and sheep's cheese was produced and sold throughout the region. The origin of the name "Čičmany", meaning 'homestead in the hills', probably comes from an ancient Indo-European word which was incorporated into the Old Slavonic language.

Through the centuries the village had many different feudal landlords, but by the start of the 20th century most of the land was owned by two Hungarian families. It was difficult for the peasant farmers to make a living in this region, and emigration, especially to North America, became a common choice for many. Other local families moved to France, Belgium and Austria in search of greater prosperity.

Living in the pretty cottages of the village was not always comfortable in the past - before the 20th century it was quite common to have three or even four generations of a family living together under one roof, sometimes up to 20 people in one building. Only one main room would have been heated by a stove in the winter, and the younger members of the family would have their beds in the upper attic while the oldest generation slept nearest to the wood stove for extra warmth.

The gingerbread-style decorations which cover the wooden beams of the cottages were painted with a mixture composed of white lime. The painting process was intended to conserve and protect the wooden beams in addition to its attractive appearance. The custom is thought to have begun more than 200 years ago, and there are several explanations for where the idea came from, including Bulgarian folk customs.

Another theory about the founding of the village and the origin of the cottage decorations says that during the time of the Tatar raids from the east in the 13th century local Slavic peasants sought safety up in this remote mountain region. Well-protected and isolated from the outside world, the peasants established a community in the valley and kept sheep and cattle. The women of the village created embroidery designs for their clothing with folk symbols that represented their way of life.

These embroidery symbols were then added to the cottages, perhaps in the hope that the symbols would bring good fortune to the cottage occupants. The symbols seen on the cottages today include arrows, clovers, hearts, crosses and several different kinds of animals. Until the devastating fire of 1921, most of the cottages in the village had two floors, but today only one example of this type of structure still exists in the settlement.

Many painted cottages were again destroyed during World War Two, when German soldiers set part of the village on fire. Another large rebuilding project began afterwards, including repainting the decorative white patterns on the logs of the buildings.

One of my favourite experiences in Čičmany is walking the streets of the lower part of the village at night when the lantern shrines are lit; two Catholic shrines on street corners are lit by candles which can be seen far off down the lane as a yellow glow to guide you past the painted cottages whose white patterns are dimly visible in the dark.

Another worthwhile experience is to climb the hill to the east of the village at dusk to get a view of the pattern made by the jumble of rooftops with the white church standing out above them. You can also look for a unique Catholic cross which is along one of the hiking trails a short distance to the east; it is surrounded by four large trees which must have been intentionally planted around it more than a century ago.

In the winter the snow can be knee-deep, and the local ski resort of Javorinka on a nearby hill becomes a popular destination with locals. In the summer months the slopes of Javorinka are used by cyclists and as a launching area for paragliding and hang gliding. Mushroom picking in the surrounding forests is another favourite local activity.

Nowadays all of the lower part of the village is a protected folk architecture reserve, with 110 listed heritage buildings including 36 which have the status of national monuments. Plans were created to establish the reserve in 1974, and it became the world's first such protected village three years later.

Two of the cottages are open to the public as a museum of traditional life, with exhibits on the history and culture of the village. Tickets are available in Radenov house, the large cottage with two floors, and the second cottage with indoor displays is the one directly across the street. There is also a small craft shop selling locally produced products such as embroidery and a few souvenirs.

There are several different accommodation options in the village, and staying for the night is highly recommended so that you can experience the village fully. The Penzion Javorina offers comfortable rooms in the middle of the village and has its own restaurant serving all the traditional Slovak dishes. There are several other cottages which are available for rent, though these are usually intended for larger groups of people staying for at least a weekend or longer.

There are hiking trails leading off into the hills in every direction from Čičmany, leading to valleys with other remote villages. Some of these villages have decorated cottages, but none have designs as unique or impressive as those found in Čicmany. A good day hike from Čičmany can be made heading west on the red-marked trail to the village of Zliechov, stopping for the views from the peak called Strážov on the way. From Zliechov it's possible to take a green-marked trail north and then a yellow-marked trail east to return to Čičmany in a loop. This circle route takes about 5.5 hours in total, so bring a lunch for a picnic somewhere along the trail. Zliechov has a small local pub where it is possible to get beer, water and light snacks.

Getting to Čičmany by public transport is easiest by bus from the city of Žilina, which is on the main train line across Slovakia with direct connections to Bratislava and Prague. Buses go directly to the village from Žilina several times per day from Monday to Friday (50 minutes), though less frequently on Saturdays and Sundays.

Many more buses travel along the main road from Žilina to Prievidza which can drop you off at the turning point for the small local road up into the hills to Čičmany. If you take the bus and ask to get off at this turn off point, it's about a seven kilometre walk in along the road to the village, or you can try to hitchhike with locals to cover this distance. Another good option is to get off one stop further along the main road where a scenic hiking trail (follow the red markers) leads over the hills to Čičmany, taking about 2.5 to 3 hours.

Beautiful Towns #4 - Vlkolínec, Slovakia

Vlkolínec is a traditional mountain village of rustic log cottages found a few kilometres south of the Slovak town of Ružomberok. The village of 45 homes lies in the Velka Fatra mountains beneath a peak known as Sidorovo. The name of the village is most likely taken from the Slovak word "vlk" meaning "wolf", and may refer to a place where wolves were trapped. The earliest record of the village dates from 1376, and the settlement came under the administration of the town of Ružomberok in 1882.

During the second world war the village was used as a base by Slovak partisans fighting the Nazis, and about one-third of the village was burned by the Germans during the fighting. In 1993 the village became a UNESCO heritage site on the basis of being a perfectly preserved example of a Carpathian mountain village with extensive folk architecture. Nowadays the cottages of the village remain much as they were a century ago, still without piped running water.

A stream runs down the centre of the main street where a communal well made of logs provides a water source for the inhabitants. One of the most unique features that can be seen in the settlement is a wooden belfry that dates from 1770. There are also a number of wooden folk carvings of peasants in traditional costume set up as statues near the entrance to the village.

The village is best reached from the town of Ružomberok on a walk through the hills along marked trails that takes from 70 to 90 minutes depending on the trail you choose. There is no public transport access to the village, although it can be reached by car. There is a car park 100 metres below the village, as there is no tourist vehicle access into the village itself.

Wooden Churches of the Carpathian Mountains #2 - Kryvka, Ukraine (now in Lviv skansen)

This wonderful wooden church, dedicated to Saint Nicholas, is originally from the small village of Kryvka, found near the border with Poland. In 1930 it was moved to the Lviv Museum of Folk Architecture to become the first structure in the museum's collection.

Today it is the museum's star attraction, preserved as a superb example of the Boyko style of Rusyn wooden church design. Boyko churches are identifiable by a building plan with three steeples where the tallest steeple is the central one; the interior contains three rooms, with the middle one being the largest.

The Kryvka church was originally constructed in 1763, and suffered major damage in World War I when a shell crashed through the roof. I spoke with the priest responsible for the church and he told me that a lack of funding for restoration of western Ukraine's wooden churches threatens the long-term sustainability of many of these unique and remarkable structures. The Lviv skansen is found at the edge of the city, and is easily reached by tram from the centre.

Beautiful Towns #2 - Špania Dolina, Slovakia

The small historic village of Špania Dolina lies in a valley surrounded by forested hills and mountains a few kilometres from the central Slovak city of Banská Bystrica. Much of the town's character as a centre of medieval copper and silver mining has been carefully retained, with many impressive stone miners' houses dating from the 17th century. Several entrances to the mines have been preserved, including one with a small chapel where the miners would have stopped to pray for a safe working day before they descended down into the depths gripping a candle.

A special form of bell tower was used to call the miners to work each morning - a large flat piece of wood called a 'knocker' was struck with hammers to produce a loud sound that could be heard echoing throughout the village. This wooden bell tower has been restored to its original 16th century appearance.
A fortified gothic church dominates the centre of the settlement, perched on a hill with a steep covered staircase running up to it from the main square below. The church contains several frescoes and mural paintings which depict miners at work; this is a feature that is common in churches found in mining settlements from this period - the main churches in Rožňava, Slovakia, and in Kutná Hora, Czech Republic, also feature such mining images dedicated to the patron saint of miners, Saint Barbara.

The mines were closed in 1888 when the major copper and silver deposits ran out, but the village has tightly held onto its heritage and today is a popular outdoor tourism destination for Slovaks and Czechs. Wonderful hiking opportunities abound in the mountains that surround the village in all directions. It is also possible to rent a few of the historic cottages in order to spend the night in this atmospheric place. A particularly memorable experience is to climb the hilltop above the church just before dusk to enjoy the panoramic view. There is also a rustic village pub full of local characters to enjoy a beer in later on in the evening.