Natural Wonders # 3 - Czech Paradise Rock Towns, Czech Republic

The Czech Paradise (Český Raj) is a region to the north-east of Prague which features unusual sandstone rock formations among its dense forests. Many castles are scattered among these 'rock towns', as well as small villages full of traditional wooden folk architecture. There are at least five different interesting routes for hiking in the Czech Paradise that can be made as day trips from Prague with public transport.

One of the best choices is a hike that includes the ruin of Trosky castle, Hrubá Skála rock town and Valdštejn castle. From Prague's central station take the train to Turnov and then change to a local train which goes east to the village of Ktová (the total travel time from Prague is about 2 hours and 20 minutes). A green-marked trail starts from the train station in Ktová which leads straight up to Trosky castle. After visiting the castle you can follow the red-marked trail north to Hrubá Skála chateau and then into the rock city area on the yellow trail until you reach the ruins of Valdštejn castle. This is a nice place to take a rest, since there is a small restaurant with drinks and food available in front of the castle entrance. From there it's an easy downhill walk into the town of Turnov on the red trail, where you can take a train back to Prague.

The most impressive castle in the Český Raj region is Kost castle, to the south of the Hrubá Skála area. It's possible to include a visit to this castle in a nice day hike starting from the small town of Sobotka, which has an interesting chateau called Humprecht on a nearby hill and some examples of traditional wooden folk architecture. The most convenient way to get to Sobotka is by bus from outside Prague's Černý Most metro station, it takes about one hour and ten minutes. A red-marked trail from Sobotka leads to Kost castle along a picturesque river valley. It's also worth making a detour to the nearby village of Vesec u Sobotky which has some beautiful wooden folk cottages.

One of the highlights of the Czech Paradise is Prachovské Skály rock town, near the town of Jičín (which is a much more interesting and historical town than Turnov). To get there take the bus to Jičín from outside Prague Černý Most metro station, then get a local bus from the bus station in Jičín to the bus stop called Holín Skalní Město which is at the edge of the rock city. The main valley where the rock city is located is small, but a web of trails go over, under and through the rock formations and it's worth spending a full afternoon exploring them.

Suché Skály rock town is found near the pretty little town of Malá Skála, which makes a nice destination together with the nearby Frýdštejn castle ruin. To get there take the train from Prague's main station to the town of Turnov, then change to a local train to get to Malá Skála. A red-marked path leads up the hill to the Suché Skály formations. On the opposite side of the river from Malá Skála the castle of Frýdštejn sits on top of a rocky pillar. The red-marked path leads along the river to the south from there, offering great views back towards the castle.

Another option to try is the Přihrazké Skály rock town with its impressive Valečov castle ruin. To get there take the train from Prague's main station to the town of Mnichovo Hradiště and then walk east along the red trail to reach the rock town. There are two other smaller castle ruins among the rocks to the north of Valečov along the red-marked trail, while the finest formations in the rock town are further east along the blue trail.

These are a few interesting options, but there are many more worthwhile hikes to make in the Czech Paradise and public transport connections from Prague are generally good, at least to the towns in the region. Many shops in Prague sell hiking maps of the Czech Paradise region which show the trail routes and distances. If you want to check any bus or train times in the Czech Republic or Slovakia, use the website www.vlak-bus.cz (you can change the language to English in the lower-right corner of the page).

The photos displayed in this post show, from top to bottom: Rock climbers in Hrubá Skála rock town; a view from the top of a rock outcrop in Hrubá Skála rock town; Rock pillars in Hrubá Skála rock town; Kost castle; Humprecht chateau on a hill near Sobotka; Views over Hrubá Skála; Part of the main valley of Prachovské Skály rock town; A traditional folk cottage near Sobotka; The main entrance to Humprecht chateau.

Natural Wonders # 2 - Adršpach-Teplice Rock Towns, Czech Republic

The fantastical rock formations of Adršpach-Teplice are undoubtedly one of the most unique natural attractions the Czech Republic has to offer. Tucked away in a quiet corner in the north of the country near the Polish border, the two 'rock cities' receive far fewer international tourists than they deserve. There are several different locations scattered around the Czech Republic which can boast bizarre limestone rock formations (The Czech Paradise, Bohemian Switzerland National Park, Kokořinsko) but those found near the small villages of Adršpach and Teplice nad Metuji are probably the most impressive when taken as a whole.

To give an idea of the scale and appearance of these 'rock cities', imagine walking through a canyon just a few metres wide where pinnacles of stone rise like office towers on all sides, some of them reaching up more than 25 metres with trees clinging to their sides. A unique ecosystem exists in these clefts between the massive stones, attracting large ferns and unusual plant formations which thrive in the cold, damp environment. The paths along the canyon floors will lead you across tiny streams, past raging waterfalls and up and down a series of metal ladders attached to the rocks.

The stone formations that tower above you often have shapes that resemble objects or human figures, hence they have been given colourful names such as 'The Dwarf', 'The Lovers', 'The Mayor and His Wife', 'Smetana Playing the Piano', 'Grandma's Armchair', 'Goethe's Table', and 'Butcher's Axe'. The trails are well-marked and don't involve any difficult climbing or scrambling, so people of all ages can be seen walking among the stone formations.

Between the two rock cities there is a small lake where rafts are waiting to ferry visitors across to the other side. The oarsmen who steer the boats sing traditional songs and tell jokes to entertain the passengers during the crossing. One of the most memorable portions of the trail is the region called 'Siberia' in the Teplice rock city. The name is fully appropriate since this is the coldest and narrowest of the canyons, with blades of rock soaring up on both sides so that little light reaches the path floor. Ferns grow out from every surface reaching for the sun far above.

It is possible to see the best stone formations in both rock cities in a long day if you start early enough. Both are equally worth visiting, though perhaps Adršpach has a slightly more impressive set of geological oddities. A route starting from the train station in Adršpach leads past a small lake and then follows a green-marked path into a pine forest before emerging in a grove with the first of the formations.

A circular loop path takes in the best of the Adršpach rocks and can be completed in one or two hours depending on your pace. A yellow-marked path connects the two rock cities, while a blue-marked trail makes a loop that includes the highlights of the Teplice formations.

Along the Teplice trail it is worth making a diversion up a series of steep ladders to see the remains of a rock fortress called Střmen which was built by Hussite soldiers.

An ideal place to finish a walk is at Teplice nad Metuji Skaly, where there is a train station as well as a number of good restaurants and hotels. A plentiful assortment of accommodation and eating options can also be found in the village of Adršpach.

The rock cities are typically packed with Czech, Polish and German tourists during the peak summer months, but if you can visit in the off-season times of early spring or late autumn you'll be able to experience the walk with less waiting time at ladders and narrow sections of the canyons. Visiting in winter is also possible, when the canyons take on a completely different appearance under a heavy blanket of snow.

Classic Castles # 2 - Gýmeš, Slovakia

This large castle ruin sits on a wooded hilltop above the village of Jelenec in the Tribeč mountains, about 20 kilometres north-east of the city of Nitra. The current structure dates from around 1270, when it was constructed as a Gothic palace, although it was built on the site of an earlier fort.

The first owners were the Forgách family, who controlled the castle for several centuries. A peasant revolt against worsening living conditions and increased taxes in 1610 had to be suppressed by force by the Forgáchs. The Ottoman Turkish armies conquered the castle in 1530 and caused significant damage to it, and it was conquered again by the Turks in 1663. Following this period it was fully reconstructed and it remained in use up until the mid-19th century, when it was abandoned and slowly fell into ruin.

Today many parts of the structure remain intact, including several tunnels, standing arches and a chapel. The castle is slowly being reclaimed by the forest, and large trees are growing all through the structure. The castle can be reached on foot following the walking trail from the village of Jelenec, it's about a one hour walk up through the forest. Another access point is from the village of Kostoľany pod Tribečom, which is considerably closer to the castle and has a path leading there that requires a hike of about 45 minutes.

In the village of Kostoľany pod Tribečom there is an another worthwhile attraction to stop and see, the 11th century Romanesque church of St. George, which features design elements typical of the Great Moravian Empire period. Both Jelencec and Kostoľany pod Tribečom are accessible by bus from Nitra, with regular buses stopping in Jelenec which is near the main road heading east towards Banská Bystrica.

Natural Wonders # 1 - Bohemian Switzerland National Park, Czech Republic

The Bohemian Switzerland National Park is a region of stunningly sculpted sandstone cliffs and towering columns of rock punctuated by deep, forest-covered canyons. Located in the north of the Czech Republic along the German border, the name for the park was coined by 19th-century artists who appreciated its romantically unique atmosphere (even though the non-alpine landscape doesn't resemble Switzerland). A major highlight of the park is the Pravčická Brána, a natural stone arch which is the largest on the European continent.

Directly below the arch is the Falcon's Nest, a 19th-century chateau which now features a small museum about the park as well as an excellent restaurant with great views from its balcony. An entrance fee is charged to get close to the arch, but it's well worth the price for the chance to climb the series of stairs that leads to the view point above the arch on the opposite cliff face. From there you can look back all along the valley to see the many sandstone outcrops that rear up out of the forest floor at regular intervals. A great day hike begins in the village of Mezní Louka, which is accessible from the city of Děčín by bus (Děčín can be reached by regular train from Prague). From Mezní Louka, a red-marked trail leads up to the foot of the sandstone cliffs and along a ridge with spectacular lookout points on rocky promontories. After 4.5 kilometres of walking, you will see the arch of Pravčická Brána appear above you on the sandstone plateau. It's a short climb from there to reach the Falcon's Nest chateau.

After you've had time to walk below, beside, and above the arch and enjoy a meal on the terrace of the restaurant, you can continue further west along the red trail, which heads down a steep valley with many shallow caves lining the cliffs. You will come to the main road through the park after 2.5 kilometres, from where you can catch a returning bus to Děčín. Alternatively, continue walking west along the road on the red trail for another 2.5 kilometres until you reach the border village of Hřensko, a pretty settlement of timber-built houses that sits in a sandstone canyon surrounded by tall pinnacles of stone. Another worthwhile route involves heading south-east from Hřensko along the narrow canyons of the Kamenice river gorge. It's possible to continue by raft along the river through the tightest stretches of the gorge, where the cliff walls are just five metres apart while they extend upwards above you by over 100 metres.

The park can be visited as a long daytrip from Prague by taking a train to Děčín and then a bus from outside the train station to Hřensko or Mezní Louka. It's worth staying for two or three days to get a chance to fully experience the park, and there are regions to the west of Děčín with further sandstone formations which are equally impressive as those inside the park.

Classic Castles #1 - Kokořín, Czech Republic

This gothic castle is located 60km north of Prague in a region called Kokořínsko, an area of thickly wooded hills and valleys featuring sandstone cliffs and strangely-shaped rock formations. The region is a popular place for hiking, as many marked trails wind through the dense forests. The castle sits on a steep rocky outcrop overlooking the green valley below.

The earliest mention of the structure is from 1320, when a fortress carved out of the surrounding sandstone was constructed. By the 16th century the castle was in poor condition, and was placed on a list of structures that were not to be maintained by the Czech state. Legends describe how the castle was then occupied by robbers and bandits such as Petrovsky of Petrovice who used it as a base from which to terrorize and pillage the region. In the 19th century the castle was left in ruins, but its isolated location and gloomy atmosphere brought it to the attention of a generation of Czech Romantic poets and painters such as K.H. Macha and Josef Manes, for whom the fortress was a source of great inspiration. The castle was purchased in 1895 and reconstructed over the next two decades by Václav Špaček, who wanted to make the structure into a family memorial. This refurbishment marked the first time a castle in the Czech lands was restored to its historical appearance.

Today the castle has been returned to the ownership of the Špaček family, who intend to keep it open to the public as a museum. A guided tour will take you through the exhibits of the interior, and it is also possible to buy a ticket to climb the tower and battlements. The second option is a more rewarding choice as the exhibits on display are less memorable than the views from the castle walls. The best way to reach Kokořín from Prague using public transport is to take a bus from Praha-Holesovice station to the town of Mělník (which is worth spending time in as well), and then changing to another bus to the village of Kokořín. The bus will drop you in the centre of the village, and from there the castle is 1.5 kilometres further along the road and then down a forest path.