Classic Castles # 4 - Krásna Hôrka, Slovakia

This large and fully intact Gothic castle sits on top of a rocky limestone hill above the small village of Krásnohorské Podhradie in south-eastern Slovakia. Built to protect the trade route running north from the Hungarian plains into the Spiš region, the castle has an ideal defensive position and appears to be virtually unconquerable when viewed from a distance.

The first written record of the castle dates from 1333, when it was owned by the Bebek family. During the Turkish invasions of the mid-16th century, the family fortified and enlarged the structure in order to boost its already impressive defensive capabilities. The Bebeks occupied the castle until they were discovered to be counterfeiting currency (and supporting Protestantism) in the late 16th century, whereupon they were unceremoniously turfed out and the castle fell into the hands of the powerful Andrássy family.

In 1910 the Andrássys owned enough properties in the region that Krásna Hôrka wasn't needed as a place of residence, so they decided to convert it into a family museum. Today the castle appears much as it did a century ago and the guided tour of the interior takes in lavishly decorated rooms full of artifacts and furniture collected by the Andrássys.

Outside on the hill that surrounds the castle goats and sheep wander and graze on the grass, while the bells around their necks make a tinkling sound which adds a rustic soundtrack to the pretty pastoral setting. The village of Krásnohorské Podhradie is located on the main road between the city of Košice and the former medieval mining town of Rožňava. While you are in the village don't miss having a look at the Andrássy family mausoleum, a fantastic Art Nouveau building constructed in 1904 by Dionysus Andrássy in memory of his wife Františka, a Czech opera singer.

Most buses travelling between Košice and Rožňava stop in the village, so it is quite easy to reach by public transport. There are several accommodation options and quality restaurants to choose from in Rožňava, so it makes a suitable base to explore the surrounding region's castles, caves and other attractions.

Classic Castles # 2 - Gýmeš, Slovakia

This large castle ruin sits on a wooded hilltop above the village of Jelenec in the Tribeč mountains, about 20 kilometres north-east of the city of Nitra. The current structure dates from around 1270, when it was constructed as a Gothic palace, although it was built on the site of an earlier fort.

The first owners were the Forgách family, who controlled the castle for several centuries. A peasant revolt against worsening living conditions and increased taxes in 1610 had to be suppressed by force by the Forgáchs. The Ottoman Turkish armies conquered the castle in 1530 and caused significant damage to it, and it was conquered again by the Turks in 1663. Following this period it was fully reconstructed and it remained in use up until the mid-19th century, when it was abandoned and slowly fell into ruin.

Today many parts of the structure remain intact, including several tunnels, standing arches and a chapel. The castle is slowly being reclaimed by the forest, and large trees are growing all through the structure. The castle can be reached on foot following the walking trail from the village of Jelenec, it's about a one hour walk up through the forest. Another access point is from the village of Kostoľany pod Tribečom, which is considerably closer to the castle and has a path leading there that requires a hike of about 45 minutes.

In the village of Kostoľany pod Tribečom there is an another worthwhile attraction to stop and see, the 11th century Romanesque church of St. George, which features design elements typical of the Great Moravian Empire period. Both Jelencec and Kostoľany pod Tribečom are accessible by bus from Nitra, with regular buses stopping in Jelenec which is near the main road heading east towards Banská Bystrica.

Surprising Signs # 1 - Kremnica, Slovakia

This sign is found at the foot of the staircase leading up into the castle tower in Kremnica in central Slovakia. Read what it says carefully - while climbing the stairs it appears to be necessary to discuss obscure indie bands and new-age philosophy...