Beautiful Towns # 8 - Mtskheta, Georgia

The small town of Mtskheta, located just a short distance north of the Georgian capital Tbilisi, holds a far greater historical and religious significance in the hearts of all Georgians than its small size would suggest. Mtskheta was the capital of the ancient Georgian kingdom of Iberia from the 3rd century BC to the early 6th century AD, and served as the cradle of Christianity in the Georgian nation at the beginning of the 4th century.

As a result, it contains a proud assortment of historical monuments which have earned it a place on UNESCO's world heritage list. The 11th-century Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and the 6th-century Jvari monastery are some of the most important religious buildings in the country, and the town remains the spiritual centre of the Georgian Orthodox Church.

Both churches contain priceless inscriptions written in the ancient Georgian alphabet, as well as icons and frescoes of stunning beauty and artistic creativity. When passing Mtskheta on the highway, passengers seated in cars, buses and marshrutkas will instinctively turn towards these churches and cross themselves.

Other significant sites to visit include the impressive bulk of the 14th-century Bebris Tsikhe fortress which sits on a small hill at the edge of the town, providing a great vantage point for views out over Mtskheta and the Mtkvari river. The 11th-century Samtavro monastery situated in the nearby hills is another important place of religious pilgrimage.

The climb to the summit far above the river where the Jvari Monastery sits is one of the most rewarding experiences Mtskheta can offer to foreign visitors, the views and atmosphere provide an experience that is distinctly Georgian.

Getting to Mtskheta from Tbilisi is easy for visitors since marshrutkas and buses travel the 20-kilometre distance frequently. It is easier to stay in Tbilisi with its greater selection of accommodation and restaurants, though Mtskheta does have a number of guesthouses for those looking to stay outside of the capital. Buses and marshrutkas continue westwards from Mtskheta to Gori, making it just about possible to visit both of these cities from Tbilisi as a long daytrip (though both really warrant a full day each to see them thoroughly).

Classic Castles # 3 - Gori, Georgia

The oval-shaped fortress of Gori stands high on a rocky hill in the centre of the Georgian city of the same name. The current structure dates from the 13th century, though the hilltop site is thought to have been fortified since the 1st century BC. Locals claim the fortress was conquered by the Romans in the 1st century AD. In the 16th century it was captured by the Ottoman Turks, and the fortress changed hands many times in the following centuries with periods of control by the Georgians, Turks and Persians.

The territory of Georgia was annexed by the Russians in 1801, and the Russian army kept a garrison of soldiers in the castle. By the mid-19th century the fortress had been abandoned, and it slowly fell into ruin. A major earthquake in 1920 caused significant damage to the structure. The castle interior has not been preserved, and today there is little to see inside the walls.

However, the steep climb up to the fortress is well worth the effort for the superb view it provides across all of Gori and the green countryside beyond. The castle is permanently open to the public, and there is no admission fee. The trail leading to the top begins on the side of the castle closest to the central square, so if you are approaching it from the bus/marshrutka station you will need to walk around the base of the hill to the other side.

Gori is connected by bus and marshrutka with most other major cities in Georgia. It is possible to visit Gori as a daytrip from Tbilisi, taking a marshrutka there and back. Trains also connect the city with Tbilisi and the Black Sea coast, but they are infrequent and slow and not really a convenient way to travel, particularly to Tbilisi. Gori's other major attraction for tourists is the Stalin museum, dedicated to the life of the Soviet leader who was born in the city.

Amazing Architecture # 1 - Garni Temple, Armenia

This Greco-Roman temple sits near the edge of a cliff above a deep canyon in Garni, a small village 32km east of Yerevan. The stunning mountainous landscape which surrounds it greatly enhances the beauty of the temple itself. Most likely it was originally constructed in the 1st century AD by King Tiridates I of Armenia using funds he received from the Roman Emperor Nero, and was dedicated to the heathen God Mithra.

The temple was sacked when the region was conquered by Timur Lenk in 1386, and in 1679 the temple was levelled by an earthquake. Most of the original columns and building blocks remained at the site until the 20th century, and the temple was reconstructed under the guidance of Soviet archeologists between 1969 and 1975. The sloped roof of the temple is supported by 24 Ionic columns which sit on an elevated podium.

The blocks of the temple are made of basalt, and it is possible to distinguish between the original bocks and the modern replacements by the lack of carving on the newer stones. Several Christian churches, a palace and a bathhouse were built around the temple after the adoption of Christianity in Armenia in the year 301 AD. These buildings are now in ruins, but floor mosaics can still be seen in the bathhouse. A series of fortification walls made of huge basalt blocks protected the temple complex, and together with its location on a triangular outcrop above the valley, the site had superb defensive capabilities.

Garni can be reached by bus or marshrutka from Yerevan and makes a great daytrip from the capital. Many people go to see the temple in Garni while on the way to or from a visit to the Geghard Monastery. While in Garni village, another worthwhile sight that few tourists visit is the ruins of the fortified monastery of Havuts Tar.