For a small Balkan nation Macedonia comes packed with some major visitor attractions. The lakeside magnificence of Ohrid is rightly regarded as the country's main tourist draw, but there's much more to be seen and experienced in this most southern Slavic state. Try trekking up to Treskavec monastery on a peak near Prilep or exploring rustic mountain villages like Galičnik and Malovište deep in the countryside. Nothing is very far away in Macedonia, though the public transport network takes some patience and careful planning to use effectively. Here are my top twenty recommendations for Macedonia - go and see them now before large numbers of tourists from outside the Balkans start to discover them.
1. Ohrid - A place of exceptional historic and natural beauty, Ohrid ranks among the most impressive sights in the Balkans. For Macedonians the town is a place of immense religious importance, while foreign tourists are drawn to the quiet cobbled streets and ancient stone churches and monasteries that sit silently on the hills and cliffs above the shimmering surface of the lake. The old fortress of Samoil commands the highest point above the town, and its huge walls provide exceptional views of the surrounding mountains and across the lake to the distant Albanian shore.
2. Pelister National Park - Found in the south-west corner of Macedonia, this park contains soaring alpine peaks and several pristine mountain lakes. The highest point is Mount Pelister (2601 metres) which offers superlative views of Lake Prespa from its slopes.
3. Mavrovo National Park - A large park along the western border with the country's best ski resort in the lakeside town of Mavrovo. An extensive network of hiking trails goes from north to south, passing through several small mountain villages which have carefully maintained many of their centuries-old traditions (see #8 for an example).
4. Sveti Naum Monastery - Sitting just a stone's throw from the Albanian border, the Sveti Naum Monastery is one of the most important orthodox religious sites in Macedonia. The church at the centre of the complex was originally founded in the year 900, and Saint Naum's remains are buried in a tomb inside. Arriving by boat from Ohrid is the most unique way to get there, and the views of Ohrid are spectacular on the return journey.
5. Bitola - Once the most southern city of Yugoslavia, today Bitola is a bustling centre with a lively old town district and bazaar area, with a series of minarets dominating the skyline.
6. Lake Matka - A green lake surrounded by a deep canyon just a short distance from Skopje. A series of steep hiking trails link several monasteries and churches with memorable frescoes.
7. Skopje - The Macedonian capital and largest city, with its new and old quarters linked by a stone bridge over the Vardar river. Minarets surrounding the old bazaar and fortress contrast starkly with the modern socialist-era structures across the river, particularly the bizarre central post office building. The city is currently undergoing a major renovation and facelift to bring it into the 21st century, while simultaneously aiming to remind people of the city's ancient past; a huge statue of Alexander the Great has been placed in the central square, much to the dismay of Greek nationalists.
8. Galičnik village - A small mountain village in Mavrovo national park with well-preserved folk traditions and architecture. The village is famous for its wedding festival held each year in July, where one lucky couple are married according to ancestral customs with colourful costumes and dances. Couples from all over Macedonia enter a competition to be selected as the bride and groom of the festival.
9. Prilep and Treskavec Monastery - A mountaintop monastery lying a few kilometres north of the city of Prilep. It's a long climb up the steep trail, but well worth it for the views at the top of Mount Zlato. The main 14th-century church has an impressive collection of frescoes. The city of Prilep also contains a number of historic churches and a clock tower.
10. Malovište village - A historic village founded by ethnic Vlachs (Aromanians) found in Pelister national park. The hillside settlement features traditional stone houses which are among the finest examples of folk architecture in Macedonia. A gentle river runs through the centre with several old stone bridges to stroll across.
11. Vevčani village - A centre of Macedonian culture in the western part of the country, with many well-preserved churches and examples of traditional regional architecture. The carnival held in the village each year in January is one of the most important traditional festivals in the Balkans.
12. Heraclea Ruins - The ruins of an ancient city founded in the 4th century by Phillip II of Macedon, today located just outside the modern city of Bitola. A Roman theatre, baths and two early Christian basilicas with impressive floor mosaics can be seen.
13. Galičica National Park - Located between Lake Ohrid and Lake Prespa, this rugged mountain region offers excellent hiking with superb views of both the lakes from the higher peaks and ridges.
14. Sveti Jovan Bigorski Monastery - A hilltop orthodox monastery in western Macedonia whose name means Saint John the Baptist Monastery in English. It was first built in the 11th century and was destroyed several times by the Ottomans throughout history. It's possible to stay overnight within the monastery complex in rustic accommodation.
15. Tetovo - A city in the north-west of Macedonia which is considered the most important centre of Albanian culture in the country. A fortress and numerous mosques dot the central skyline.
16. Stobi Ruins - Probably the most important archaeological site in Macedonia, originally settled by the anicent Paeonians and later a Roman settlement. The foundations of baths, fountains, a theatre, basilica and palace can still be seen today.
17. Lake Prespa and Golem Grad Island - A large lake in the south-east corner of the country surrounded by arid, mountainous terrain. Golem Grad island sits in the middle of the lake near the Greek and Albanian borders and has several ancient church ruins to visit connected by hiking trails. It is reachable by boat from the village of Konjsko.
18. Kruševo - At 1350 metres above sea level, Kruševo is the highest town in the country and its mountainous position also makes it the centre of the nation's top ski area. The town is of great historical importance to Macedonians, and there are plans to fully restore the historic district to its 19th-century appearance.
19. Struga - A quieter alternative for a place to stay on the shore of Lake Ohrid compared to the tourist centre of Ohrid town, Struga features several old churches and mosques, a historical bazaar district and several fine beaches along the lakefront.
20. Kratovo - A picturesque small town in the north-eastern part of the country which is best known for its series of stone bridges. A few kilometres from the town in the village of Kuklica there is a 'stone town' of over one hundred unusual natural stone pillars to explore.
- A Little Local Flavour
- Amazing Architecture
- Beautiful Towns
- Best of Country Lists
- Classic Castles
- Day Trips
- Essential Travel Destinations
- Folk Culture Destinations
- Natural Wonders
- Panoramic Views
- Photo Challenges
- Quirky and Unusual Sights
- Remarkable Relics of Communism
- Surprising Signs
- Wooden Churches of the Carpathians
Monday, July 4, 2011
Saturday, July 2, 2011
Amazing Architecture # 2 - Sucevita Monastery, Romania
The monastery of Sucevita is one of the largest of the eastern Orthodox painted monasteries in the Bucovina region of north-east Romania. A set of tall stone fortifications protect the buildings inside, foremost among them the main church which was built between 1582 and 1601. The exterior of the church is almost completely covered in a fabulous series of colourful frescoes which are astoundingly well-preserved after centuries of exposure to wind, rain, and winter snow.
In the 16th century the Ottoman Turks were a constant threat to the region, and large armies were readied to defend the territory. The heavily fortified monasteries served as a safe place for the soldiers and local citizens to take refuge in during attacks, and it was decided that biblical paintings should be placed on the exterior church walls in order to teach the bible to the illiterate soldiers camped there, with the added incentive of increasing their fighting zeal against the Muslim enemy.
The frescoes can be read much like a comic strip is today, though scenes such as the Ottoman siege of Constantinople were intended as a stark warning of what lay in store for the people of the region if they didn't organize adequate resistance. Upon entering the monastery through the main gate, the north wall of the church is visible straight ahead. It is almost completely covered by the 'Virtuous Ladder' fresco which shows the 30 steps which must be climbed to get from hell to paradise. Groups of angels encourage the faithful and lead them upwards, while devils grab at their legs from below the rungs, ready to pull them downwards if they should succumb to temptation. The southern wall features a 'Tree of Jesse' which is meant to symbolize the unity of the New and Old Testaments. Surprisingly, the western wall was left unpainted, and legends claim that an artist working on the frescoes fell from the scaffolding and died, which other artists took as a sign that they should leave the job unfinished.
Sucevita is one of the most remote of the Bukovina monasteries, though there are two buses daily from the small town of Radauti which has regular connections to Suceava. There is also a hiking trail which connects the monastery to Putna monastery further to the north.
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
Wooden Churches of the Carpathian Mountains # 10 - Ruská Bystrá, Slovakia
This small Greek Catholic wooden church is found in the tiny village of Ruská Bystrá, located in a remote region of eastern Slovakia a few kilometres from the Ukrainian border. The church has been inscribed on the UNESCO world heritage list, largely because of its extremely well-preserved iconostasis paintings and icons.
The Baroque iconostasis dates from the 18th century, while the Czar door at the centre of the panel is from the 17th century. The highly decorative door has small round paintings depicting scenes from the lives of four evangelists and an image of the annunciation. An unusual feature is that the side icons are placed on the walls because of the narrow space for the iconostasis panel.
The church is a three-roomed structure with a high sloped roof which is also unusual for this type of Greek Catholic design. The nave is divided from the entrance room by a wall of wooden beams which is decorated with carved columns. The key for the church is kept by the family who live in the house opposite the pub in the centre of the village. When visiting churches like these you should always leave a donation of a few Euros in front of the icons.
Ruská Bystrá is quite difficult to reach by public transport, but there are two or three buses per day from the town of Michalovce, which has frequent train and bus connections to Košice and the rest of the country.
Wednesday, June 22, 2011
Photo Challenge # 13 - Name This Location
Here is the next photo challenge for you to guess, can you name the town where this was taken? As usual, clicking on the photo to enlarge it may help provide some clues. Good luck!
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Sunday, February 27, 2011
The Czech Republic's Top 100 Destinations
The Czech Republic is a country with an abundance of cultural and historical riches that warrant and reward extensive exploration. Visitors who spend just a few days in Prague before moving on to the next country are really just scratching the surface, there's so much more that this small Slavic nation has to offer. The list that follows contains what I consider to be the 100 most interesting destinations for tourists, taking into consideration a mix of cultural, architectural, historical and natural attractions.
1. Prague - A city that needs no introduction given its present status as one of the world's greatest tourist destinations. Some people feel it's become too popular for its own good, and I'd agree with that as far as the major routes through the old town and castle district are concerned, but take a stroll away from the tour groups by merely turning down a side street in Malá Strana or Hradčany and you can still see daily life going on just steps from the bustle of the tourist crowds. For a typical Czech experience, look beyond the historic centre to districts like Žižkov, Vinohrady or Holešovice for a place to enjoy local restaurants and pubs without the tourist prices. Experience the city to the fullest, but then be sure to get on a train and go out to see what the rest of the country has to offer, you won't be disappointed!
2. Český Krumlov - One of Europe's most beautiful small towns, featuring an array of medieval buildings which are virtually untouched by modern development. The town has by now been well and truly discovered, and this is the one place outside Prague that a significant number of foreign tourists visit. Don't let that put you off though, this is an essential stop on any tour of the country and a great introduction to the Rose towns of South Bohemia.
3. Olomouc - A major city in the region of North Moravia, Olomouc features an exceptionally pretty old town area centred around two cobbled main squares. This is a great place to experience city life in beautiful surroundings without the accompanying tourist crowds and prices.
4. Karlovy Vary - The largest of the Bohemian spa towns, Karlovy Vary is set in a deep forested river valley with a series of natural springs along the valley floor. It may largely cater to a well-heeled audience of Germans and Russians in search of snazzy and exotic health treatments, but there is plenty for the average tourist to see and experience.
5. Karlštejn Castle - One of the most dramatically impressive castles in the country when viewed from afar, though the interior is somewhat less remarkable. This was King Charles IV's place of retreat from the bustle of Prague, and he forbid women from entering. His wife Anna successfully entered the castle dressed as a man, a tale which became a hugely popular comedy in the 19th century and is still loved today. The castle is at its best at 9am when it first opens, before the tour groups start to arrive.
6. Telč - A perfect medieval square of arcaded 16th-century buildings makes Telč a great place to pause and sample provincial life for a while. Visiting in autumn when the carp ponds which surround the town are drained to harvest the fish provides a uniquely Czech experience.
7. Mikulov - A beautiful small town in South Moravia, found just a few kilometres from the Austrian border. A large chateau sits on a hilltop in the centre with the town spread out on the slopes surrounding it. This is a great place to experience the local Czech wine industry, the white wines produced here are particularly good.
8. Adršpach-Teplice Rock Towns - Huge slabs of stone rise vertically out of the forest in weird and wonderful shapes, making this one of the most interesting natural landscapes in the country. The area provides plenty of hiking opportunities.
9. Loket - A small town in West Bohemia which gives Český Krumlov a run for its money in terms of picturesque location, without the large tourist crowds of the latter.
10. Konopiště Castle - The former home of the Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand, this castle is stuffed with an extensive display of his hunting trophies and furniture. The highlight is the landscaped garden and views of the castle while on the walking trail around the lake.
11. Kutná Hora - A medieval silver mining town which had a population equal to London in the 14th century, Kutná Hora holds a clutch of superb monuments within its old town centre. In the nearby suburb of Sedlec, the ossuary (bone church) forms the main reason most visitors come here, which is to gawk at the downright bizarre sculptures and decorations made from human bones. The highlight is the chandelier, which includes at least one of every different bone in the human body.
12. Bohemian Switzerland National Park - Found in the far north of the country near the German border, this region is famed for its unique sandstone rock formations. The Pravčická Brána is the largest natural stone arch on the European continent and is probably the most impressive sight.
13. Křivoklát Castle - A large castle to the south-west of the capital, Křivoklát is probably my personal favourite of the 'big three' castles near Prague (together with Karlštejn and Konopiště). Set in wooded, hilly countryside, the castle looks spectacular when viewed from one of the surrounding hilltops.
14. Brno - The largest city in Moravia and the country's counterpoint to Prague, Brno features a lively and strollable old town centre with a hilltop castle and the chance to try out some of the nation's finest pubs.
15. Tábor - A pretty town in South Bohemia, Tábor gets far fewer visitors than it deserves. Its web of cobbled streets are fascinating to explore, and as a bonus there is the colourful Klokoty monastery to visit on the outskirts of town.
16. Mariánské Lázně - A spa which once hosted royalty from across Europe, today this small town continues to draw visitors with its healing waters and beautiful 19th-century architecture.
17. Štramberk - Probably my favourite small town in the country, with a collection of wooden buildings in the distinct Wallachian style spread across a hillside below the round castle tower known as Trúba.
18. Český Ráj - The best hiking within easy reach of the capital, with dramatic sandstone cliffs and formations that create a fascinating environment to trek through.
19. Hradec Králové - A large city in East Bohmemia, with a showpiece main square and an impressive old town. Across the river lies the new town, built in the interwar years in the distinctive Czech style known as Rondo-Cubism.
20. Terezín - Originally a Habsburg-era fortress town, Terezín was put to much darker use during WW2 as a Jewish ghetto used as a transit point en route to the Nazi concentration camps in Poland. A visit to the museum here is an essential stop on a historical tour of the country.
21. Moravian Karst - A landscape of limestone canyons and caves just north of the city of Brno.
22. Slavonice - A small town on the Austrian border with an exceptional collection of sgraffito facades in its two main squares.
23. Lednice - Part of the Lednice-Valtice complex once owned by the Lichtenstein family, the town features a chateau with impressive gardens and a 30-metre minaret to climb.
24. Rožnov Pod Radhoštěm - The finest Skansen (outdoor museum) in the country, with dozens of wooden buildings representing the typical traditional architecture of the mountainous Wallachia region.
25. Plzeň - A large city in West Bohemia which has the Pilsner Urquell brewery as its prime attraction. The Gothic cathedral in the central square has the tallest steeple in the country, which you can climb for a panoramic view.
26. Hluboká nad Vltavou - A mock-Gothic castle in South Bohemia which was supposedly redesigned to resemble England's Windsor castle.
27. Pernštejn Castle - A classic Gothic castle on a wooded hill found north-west of Brno.
28. Litomyšl - A small town in East Bohemia with a beautiful old town and the bizarre Portmoneum. It was also the birthplace of the Czech composer Bedřich Smetana.
29. Šumava National Park - This is the most pristine stretch of mountain wilderness in the country, making it a magnet for visitors who enjoy hiking and outdoor activities.
30. Třeboň - A small walled town in South Bohemia surrounded by a network of carp ponds. The old town core is one of the most architecturally complete in Bohemia.
31. České Budějovice - A large city in South Bohemia which produces the famous Budvar beer. Try a glass while sitting in the picturesque central square.
32. Moravský Krumlov - Home to the Slav Epic paintings by Czech artist Alfons Mucha in the town's chateau. The paintings may soon be moved to Prague, so take the opportunity to see them in their original home before they head off to the big city.
33. Znojmo - A picturesque town perched on the edge of a deep river valley, with impressive Romanesque frescoes in its old town area.
34. Jindřichův Hradec - A small town in South Bohemia with an impressive castle complex.
35. Vranov Nad Dyjí Castle - A castle perched on a clifftop near the Austrian border in South Moravia.
36. Krkonoše Mountains - The best skiing in the country is found here, along with the country's highest mountain, Sněžka.
37. Kokořín Castle - A 14th-century castle which sits among wooded hills and valleys to the north of Prague.
38. Litoměřice - A small town in North Bohemia with an old town containing many picturesque churches.
39. Valtice - The southern town of the Lednice-Valtice complex, featuring the palace which the Lichtenstein family once called home.
40. Kroměříž - A pretty town in South Moravia with a chateau and extensive landscaped gardens.
41. Pardubice - A city in East Bohemia which includes a large palace and old town square containing several buildings with highly decorative facades.
42. Prachatice - A small walled town in South Bohemia with impressive sgraffito facades in its old town centre.
43. Bouzov Castle - A huge Neo-Gothic castle not far from the city of Olomouc.
44. Mělník - A town in North Bohemia which is noted for its wine production as well as its castle perched high above the point where the Vltava and Labe rivers meet.
45. Pustevny - A small village of colourfully decorated folk cottages on a mountaintop, with excellent hiking or skiing options in the vicinity.
46. Červená Lhota Castle - A renaissance-era castle in South Bohemia beautifully situated in the middle of a lake.
47. Liberec - A major city of North Bohemia with a splendid neo-renaissance town hall.
48. Trosky Castle - A castle perched on a narrow blade of rock at the edge of the Český Ráj region.
49. Zvíkov Castle - A striking medieval castle found in South Bohemia.
50. Zelená Hora Pilgrimage Church in Ždár Nad Sazavou - A unique star-shaped structure on a hilltop designed by Giovanni Santini.
51. Český Šternberk Castle - A Gothic castle sitting high above a river valley to the south-east of the capital.
52. Kost Castle - A large castle sitting on top of a column of sandstone in the Český Ráj region.
53. Bítov Castle - A hilltop castle located in South Moravia.
54. Svatá Hora Shrine in Příbram - A colourful Marian shrine on a hill in an otherwise drab industrial town in Bohemia.
55. Ještěd Tower - A socialist-era TV tower and hotel near the city of Liberec which has become one of the most recognisable symbols of the Czech lands, at least to the Czechs themselves.
56. Františkovy Lázně - The third of the major spa towns of West Bohemia, with pleasant architecture and a much more relaxed feel than Karlovy Vary.
57. Bezděz Castle - A Gothic ruin perched on a rocky outcrop in North Bohemia.
58. Podyjí National Park - A series or rolling hills and woodlands dotted with various castles and ruins, creating an ideal destination for hiking.
59. Rabí Castle - A large castle ruin in South Bohemia sitting above the village of the same name.
60. Strážnice Folk Festival - The largest and most popular folk festival in the country, held each year in June.
61. Kuks - A collection of Baroque spa buildings with a fantastic collection of ornate statues.
62. Cheb - A town on the German border in West Bohemia with a beautiful old town centre and an imposing castle.
63. Kladruby Monastery - A Benedictine monastery containing a central church in Romanesque and Gothic style.
64. Orlík Castle - A 19th-century riverside castle with elegant interiors found in South Bohemia.
65. Wooden Churches of the Beskydy Region - Several impressive Roman Catholic wooden churches can be seen in far-east Moravia. The finest is in the village of Guty, near the Polish border.
66. Blatná Castle - A water castle surrounded by an artificial lake found in South Bohemia.
67. Nové Město Nad Metují - A small town in East Bohemia with a chateau and perfectly preserved central square.
68. Rožmberk Nad Vltavou - A quaint village near Český Krumlov with a huge fortress on a narrow ledge of rock above the Vltava river.
69. Landštejn Castle - A ruined 13th-century structure located near the Austrian border.
70. Holašovice - A village of baroque-style folk architecture in South Bohemia.
71. Pelhřimov - A small medieval town east of Tábor with a well-preserved central square and a museum dedicated to Czech attempts to break Guiness Book world records.
72. Domažlice - A pleasant town centred on a long and narrow central square found not far from the German border in West Bohemia.
73. Písek Bridge - An 11th-century stone construction which is even older than Prague's Charles Bridge.
74. Lidice Museum - A small museum which describes the WW2 events in which the Nazis burned the village of Lidice to the ground and shot the inhabitants or sent them off to concentration camps in retaliation for the assassination of Nazi leader Reinhard Heydrich.
75. Buchlov Castle - A Gothic castle in hilly countryside in South Moravia.
76. Jičín - A welcoming town with an arcaded central square and a renaissance palace found in East Bohemia.
77. Nelahozoves - A village just north of Prague with a large chateau and the birthplace museum of the Czech composer Antonín Dvořák.
78. Ride of the Kings Folk Festival in Vlčnov - A folk festival in the Slovacko region of Moravia held each year in May.
79. Šternberk Castle - A large castle in the town of Šternberk found north of the city of Olomouc.
80. Třebíč - Features one of the most well-preserved Jewish ghettos in the country, as well as a Romanesque basilica.
81. Slavkov (Austerlitz Battlefield) - The location where in 1805 Napoleon's troops defeated the combined forces of Austria and Russia. Today there is a Peace Monument and a museum on the site.
82. Boskovice - A town north of Brno with a fine chateau, castle ruin, Jewish synagogue and a rather unexpected Wild West theme park.
83. The Grave of T.G. Masaryk in Lány - This village to the west of Prague is where the first President of Czechoslovakia is buried, and his grave is a place of pilgrimage for many Czechs. Nearby the grave site is the Czech presidential summer palace.
84. Veltrusy - A beautiful baroque chateau surrounded by gardens and a park north of Prague.
85. Kašperské Hory - A pretty little village in South Moravia which was once a German mining town. The highlights include an eye-catching renaissance town hall and an unusual motorcycle museum.
86. Velké Losiny - A small Moravian spa town featuring an impressive Renaissance-style chateau and a hand-made paper museum.
87. Strakonice Castle - A 13th-century fortress with a round tower in South Bohemia.
88. Broumov Wooden Church - Probably the finest wooden church in the country along with the one in Guty. This is the oldest one in the Czech Republic, dating from the 14th century.
89. Český Kras caves - A region south of the capital with a large number of caves, one of which is officially open to the public, the Koněpruské Jeskyně.
90. Žatec - A pleasant old town in North Bohemia with a museum dedicated to the hops industry and its role in beer production.
91. Preserved Section of the Iron Curtain in Čížov - A stretch of the original barbed wire fences and a watchtower which have been preserved as a monument in the village of Čížov, on the border with Austria.
92. Nový Jičín - A town in north Moravia with an impressive central square with arcaded facades and a hat museum.
93. Řip Hill - A hill north of the capital which legend claims was the place where the founding father of the Czech nation, Praotec Čech, declared all the territory which surrounded the hill as the Czech lands. There is a 12th-century rotunda at the top to visit, so climbing the hill is a popular patriotic activity for Czechs.
94. Helfštýn Castle - An excellent hilltop castle ruin in North Moravia, with great hiking in the surrounding hills.
95. Kadaň - A historic town in North Bohemia full of 18th-century buildings and a strikingly unique town hall.
96. Jihlava - An old silver mining town in South Moravia with an attractive old town centre.
97. Sázava - A small town featuring a chateau and an 11th-century monastery high on a plateau above the Sázava river.
98. Jaroměřice nad Rokytnou - A huge and colourful baroque chateau dominates this small town in south Moravia.
99. Kolin - A small medieval town to the east of Prague with a cobbled square full of Renaissance and Baroque buildings.
100. Náchod - A small town on the Polish border with a beautiful hilltop chateau.
1. Prague - A city that needs no introduction given its present status as one of the world's greatest tourist destinations. Some people feel it's become too popular for its own good, and I'd agree with that as far as the major routes through the old town and castle district are concerned, but take a stroll away from the tour groups by merely turning down a side street in Malá Strana or Hradčany and you can still see daily life going on just steps from the bustle of the tourist crowds. For a typical Czech experience, look beyond the historic centre to districts like Žižkov, Vinohrady or Holešovice for a place to enjoy local restaurants and pubs without the tourist prices. Experience the city to the fullest, but then be sure to get on a train and go out to see what the rest of the country has to offer, you won't be disappointed!
2. Český Krumlov - One of Europe's most beautiful small towns, featuring an array of medieval buildings which are virtually untouched by modern development. The town has by now been well and truly discovered, and this is the one place outside Prague that a significant number of foreign tourists visit. Don't let that put you off though, this is an essential stop on any tour of the country and a great introduction to the Rose towns of South Bohemia.
3. Olomouc - A major city in the region of North Moravia, Olomouc features an exceptionally pretty old town area centred around two cobbled main squares. This is a great place to experience city life in beautiful surroundings without the accompanying tourist crowds and prices.
4. Karlovy Vary - The largest of the Bohemian spa towns, Karlovy Vary is set in a deep forested river valley with a series of natural springs along the valley floor. It may largely cater to a well-heeled audience of Germans and Russians in search of snazzy and exotic health treatments, but there is plenty for the average tourist to see and experience.
5. Karlštejn Castle - One of the most dramatically impressive castles in the country when viewed from afar, though the interior is somewhat less remarkable. This was King Charles IV's place of retreat from the bustle of Prague, and he forbid women from entering. His wife Anna successfully entered the castle dressed as a man, a tale which became a hugely popular comedy in the 19th century and is still loved today. The castle is at its best at 9am when it first opens, before the tour groups start to arrive.
6. Telč - A perfect medieval square of arcaded 16th-century buildings makes Telč a great place to pause and sample provincial life for a while. Visiting in autumn when the carp ponds which surround the town are drained to harvest the fish provides a uniquely Czech experience.
7. Mikulov - A beautiful small town in South Moravia, found just a few kilometres from the Austrian border. A large chateau sits on a hilltop in the centre with the town spread out on the slopes surrounding it. This is a great place to experience the local Czech wine industry, the white wines produced here are particularly good.
8. Adršpach-Teplice Rock Towns - Huge slabs of stone rise vertically out of the forest in weird and wonderful shapes, making this one of the most interesting natural landscapes in the country. The area provides plenty of hiking opportunities.
9. Loket - A small town in West Bohemia which gives Český Krumlov a run for its money in terms of picturesque location, without the large tourist crowds of the latter.
10. Konopiště Castle - The former home of the Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand, this castle is stuffed with an extensive display of his hunting trophies and furniture. The highlight is the landscaped garden and views of the castle while on the walking trail around the lake.
11. Kutná Hora - A medieval silver mining town which had a population equal to London in the 14th century, Kutná Hora holds a clutch of superb monuments within its old town centre. In the nearby suburb of Sedlec, the ossuary (bone church) forms the main reason most visitors come here, which is to gawk at the downright bizarre sculptures and decorations made from human bones. The highlight is the chandelier, which includes at least one of every different bone in the human body.
12. Bohemian Switzerland National Park - Found in the far north of the country near the German border, this region is famed for its unique sandstone rock formations. The Pravčická Brána is the largest natural stone arch on the European continent and is probably the most impressive sight.
13. Křivoklát Castle - A large castle to the south-west of the capital, Křivoklát is probably my personal favourite of the 'big three' castles near Prague (together with Karlštejn and Konopiště). Set in wooded, hilly countryside, the castle looks spectacular when viewed from one of the surrounding hilltops.
14. Brno - The largest city in Moravia and the country's counterpoint to Prague, Brno features a lively and strollable old town centre with a hilltop castle and the chance to try out some of the nation's finest pubs.
15. Tábor - A pretty town in South Bohemia, Tábor gets far fewer visitors than it deserves. Its web of cobbled streets are fascinating to explore, and as a bonus there is the colourful Klokoty monastery to visit on the outskirts of town.
16. Mariánské Lázně - A spa which once hosted royalty from across Europe, today this small town continues to draw visitors with its healing waters and beautiful 19th-century architecture.
17. Štramberk - Probably my favourite small town in the country, with a collection of wooden buildings in the distinct Wallachian style spread across a hillside below the round castle tower known as Trúba.
18. Český Ráj - The best hiking within easy reach of the capital, with dramatic sandstone cliffs and formations that create a fascinating environment to trek through.
19. Hradec Králové - A large city in East Bohmemia, with a showpiece main square and an impressive old town. Across the river lies the new town, built in the interwar years in the distinctive Czech style known as Rondo-Cubism.
20. Terezín - Originally a Habsburg-era fortress town, Terezín was put to much darker use during WW2 as a Jewish ghetto used as a transit point en route to the Nazi concentration camps in Poland. A visit to the museum here is an essential stop on a historical tour of the country.
21. Moravian Karst - A landscape of limestone canyons and caves just north of the city of Brno.
22. Slavonice - A small town on the Austrian border with an exceptional collection of sgraffito facades in its two main squares.
23. Lednice - Part of the Lednice-Valtice complex once owned by the Lichtenstein family, the town features a chateau with impressive gardens and a 30-metre minaret to climb.
24. Rožnov Pod Radhoštěm - The finest Skansen (outdoor museum) in the country, with dozens of wooden buildings representing the typical traditional architecture of the mountainous Wallachia region.
25. Plzeň - A large city in West Bohemia which has the Pilsner Urquell brewery as its prime attraction. The Gothic cathedral in the central square has the tallest steeple in the country, which you can climb for a panoramic view.
26. Hluboká nad Vltavou - A mock-Gothic castle in South Bohemia which was supposedly redesigned to resemble England's Windsor castle.
27. Pernštejn Castle - A classic Gothic castle on a wooded hill found north-west of Brno.
28. Litomyšl - A small town in East Bohemia with a beautiful old town and the bizarre Portmoneum. It was also the birthplace of the Czech composer Bedřich Smetana.
29. Šumava National Park - This is the most pristine stretch of mountain wilderness in the country, making it a magnet for visitors who enjoy hiking and outdoor activities.
30. Třeboň - A small walled town in South Bohemia surrounded by a network of carp ponds. The old town core is one of the most architecturally complete in Bohemia.
31. České Budějovice - A large city in South Bohemia which produces the famous Budvar beer. Try a glass while sitting in the picturesque central square.
32. Moravský Krumlov - Home to the Slav Epic paintings by Czech artist Alfons Mucha in the town's chateau. The paintings may soon be moved to Prague, so take the opportunity to see them in their original home before they head off to the big city.
33. Znojmo - A picturesque town perched on the edge of a deep river valley, with impressive Romanesque frescoes in its old town area.
34. Jindřichův Hradec - A small town in South Bohemia with an impressive castle complex.
35. Vranov Nad Dyjí Castle - A castle perched on a clifftop near the Austrian border in South Moravia.
36. Krkonoše Mountains - The best skiing in the country is found here, along with the country's highest mountain, Sněžka.
37. Kokořín Castle - A 14th-century castle which sits among wooded hills and valleys to the north of Prague.
38. Litoměřice - A small town in North Bohemia with an old town containing many picturesque churches.
39. Valtice - The southern town of the Lednice-Valtice complex, featuring the palace which the Lichtenstein family once called home.
40. Kroměříž - A pretty town in South Moravia with a chateau and extensive landscaped gardens.
41. Pardubice - A city in East Bohemia which includes a large palace and old town square containing several buildings with highly decorative facades.
42. Prachatice - A small walled town in South Bohemia with impressive sgraffito facades in its old town centre.
43. Bouzov Castle - A huge Neo-Gothic castle not far from the city of Olomouc.
44. Mělník - A town in North Bohemia which is noted for its wine production as well as its castle perched high above the point where the Vltava and Labe rivers meet.
45. Pustevny - A small village of colourfully decorated folk cottages on a mountaintop, with excellent hiking or skiing options in the vicinity.
46. Červená Lhota Castle - A renaissance-era castle in South Bohemia beautifully situated in the middle of a lake.
47. Liberec - A major city of North Bohemia with a splendid neo-renaissance town hall.
48. Trosky Castle - A castle perched on a narrow blade of rock at the edge of the Český Ráj region.
49. Zvíkov Castle - A striking medieval castle found in South Bohemia.
50. Zelená Hora Pilgrimage Church in Ždár Nad Sazavou - A unique star-shaped structure on a hilltop designed by Giovanni Santini.
51. Český Šternberk Castle - A Gothic castle sitting high above a river valley to the south-east of the capital.
52. Kost Castle - A large castle sitting on top of a column of sandstone in the Český Ráj region.
53. Bítov Castle - A hilltop castle located in South Moravia.
54. Svatá Hora Shrine in Příbram - A colourful Marian shrine on a hill in an otherwise drab industrial town in Bohemia.
55. Ještěd Tower - A socialist-era TV tower and hotel near the city of Liberec which has become one of the most recognisable symbols of the Czech lands, at least to the Czechs themselves.
56. Františkovy Lázně - The third of the major spa towns of West Bohemia, with pleasant architecture and a much more relaxed feel than Karlovy Vary.
57. Bezděz Castle - A Gothic ruin perched on a rocky outcrop in North Bohemia.
58. Podyjí National Park - A series or rolling hills and woodlands dotted with various castles and ruins, creating an ideal destination for hiking.
59. Rabí Castle - A large castle ruin in South Bohemia sitting above the village of the same name.
60. Strážnice Folk Festival - The largest and most popular folk festival in the country, held each year in June.
61. Kuks - A collection of Baroque spa buildings with a fantastic collection of ornate statues.
62. Cheb - A town on the German border in West Bohemia with a beautiful old town centre and an imposing castle.
63. Kladruby Monastery - A Benedictine monastery containing a central church in Romanesque and Gothic style.
64. Orlík Castle - A 19th-century riverside castle with elegant interiors found in South Bohemia.
65. Wooden Churches of the Beskydy Region - Several impressive Roman Catholic wooden churches can be seen in far-east Moravia. The finest is in the village of Guty, near the Polish border.
66. Blatná Castle - A water castle surrounded by an artificial lake found in South Bohemia.
67. Nové Město Nad Metují - A small town in East Bohemia with a chateau and perfectly preserved central square.
68. Rožmberk Nad Vltavou - A quaint village near Český Krumlov with a huge fortress on a narrow ledge of rock above the Vltava river.
69. Landštejn Castle - A ruined 13th-century structure located near the Austrian border.
70. Holašovice - A village of baroque-style folk architecture in South Bohemia.
71. Pelhřimov - A small medieval town east of Tábor with a well-preserved central square and a museum dedicated to Czech attempts to break Guiness Book world records.
72. Domažlice - A pleasant town centred on a long and narrow central square found not far from the German border in West Bohemia.
73. Písek Bridge - An 11th-century stone construction which is even older than Prague's Charles Bridge.
74. Lidice Museum - A small museum which describes the WW2 events in which the Nazis burned the village of Lidice to the ground and shot the inhabitants or sent them off to concentration camps in retaliation for the assassination of Nazi leader Reinhard Heydrich.
75. Buchlov Castle - A Gothic castle in hilly countryside in South Moravia.
76. Jičín - A welcoming town with an arcaded central square and a renaissance palace found in East Bohemia.
77. Nelahozoves - A village just north of Prague with a large chateau and the birthplace museum of the Czech composer Antonín Dvořák.
78. Ride of the Kings Folk Festival in Vlčnov - A folk festival in the Slovacko region of Moravia held each year in May.
79. Šternberk Castle - A large castle in the town of Šternberk found north of the city of Olomouc.
80. Třebíč - Features one of the most well-preserved Jewish ghettos in the country, as well as a Romanesque basilica.
81. Slavkov (Austerlitz Battlefield) - The location where in 1805 Napoleon's troops defeated the combined forces of Austria and Russia. Today there is a Peace Monument and a museum on the site.
82. Boskovice - A town north of Brno with a fine chateau, castle ruin, Jewish synagogue and a rather unexpected Wild West theme park.
83. The Grave of T.G. Masaryk in Lány - This village to the west of Prague is where the first President of Czechoslovakia is buried, and his grave is a place of pilgrimage for many Czechs. Nearby the grave site is the Czech presidential summer palace.
84. Veltrusy - A beautiful baroque chateau surrounded by gardens and a park north of Prague.
85. Kašperské Hory - A pretty little village in South Moravia which was once a German mining town. The highlights include an eye-catching renaissance town hall and an unusual motorcycle museum.
86. Velké Losiny - A small Moravian spa town featuring an impressive Renaissance-style chateau and a hand-made paper museum.
87. Strakonice Castle - A 13th-century fortress with a round tower in South Bohemia.
88. Broumov Wooden Church - Probably the finest wooden church in the country along with the one in Guty. This is the oldest one in the Czech Republic, dating from the 14th century.
89. Český Kras caves - A region south of the capital with a large number of caves, one of which is officially open to the public, the Koněpruské Jeskyně.
90. Žatec - A pleasant old town in North Bohemia with a museum dedicated to the hops industry and its role in beer production.
91. Preserved Section of the Iron Curtain in Čížov - A stretch of the original barbed wire fences and a watchtower which have been preserved as a monument in the village of Čížov, on the border with Austria.
92. Nový Jičín - A town in north Moravia with an impressive central square with arcaded facades and a hat museum.
93. Řip Hill - A hill north of the capital which legend claims was the place where the founding father of the Czech nation, Praotec Čech, declared all the territory which surrounded the hill as the Czech lands. There is a 12th-century rotunda at the top to visit, so climbing the hill is a popular patriotic activity for Czechs.
94. Helfštýn Castle - An excellent hilltop castle ruin in North Moravia, with great hiking in the surrounding hills.
95. Kadaň - A historic town in North Bohemia full of 18th-century buildings and a strikingly unique town hall.
96. Jihlava - An old silver mining town in South Moravia with an attractive old town centre.
97. Sázava - A small town featuring a chateau and an 11th-century monastery high on a plateau above the Sázava river.
98. Jaroměřice nad Rokytnou - A huge and colourful baroque chateau dominates this small town in south Moravia.
99. Kolin - A small medieval town to the east of Prague with a cobbled square full of Renaissance and Baroque buildings.
100. Náchod - A small town on the Polish border with a beautiful hilltop chateau.
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Thursday, February 17, 2011
Remarkable Relics of Communism # 7 - Tirana, Albania
This massive wall mural is found above the entrance to the National History Museum of Albania in the capital city of Tirana. It dominates the city's central square, making it one of the most recognizable images of Tirana. The mural portrays proud and strong Albanians defending the territory of their country against foreign invaders during every period of the nation's history, including the ancient Illyrians, the resistance to Turkish rule led by Skanderbeg, the partisan fighters of World War Two and the communist era under Enver Hoxha.
The only change that has been made since the end of the communist period is that a red star has been removed from the flag. The museum itself is equally fascinating and makes a great introduction to the complexities of Albanian history. A number of important artifacts were looted during the 1990's, but there is still an impressive collection of exhibits on display.
Thursday, February 10, 2011
Quirky and Unusual Sights # 4 - The Minaret in Lednice, Czech Republic
The Lednice-Valtice region was once the family home of the Lichtensteins, who began developing the complex in the 18th century. Many pavilions, fountains, statues, arches and castle ruins can be found spread over an area of several hundred square kilometres. In the 19th century the complex was further developed with many structures built between the family's palaces in the towns of Lednice and Valtice.
The palace in Lednice is surrounded by a huge landscaped garden, the most unique and outlandish feature of which is the minaret, built in a Moorish-revival style in 1802. At 60 metres high, it was supposedly the tallest minaret outside the Muslim world at the time of its construction. In the early 19th century it was very popular for the European aristocracy to embrace exotic foreign cultures and artistic forms by having palace rooms decorated in Chinese, Japanese or Middle Eastern styles.
One story of the minaret's construction claims that Prince Alois Lichtenstein had planned to construct a church in the town of Lednice, but his proposal was rejected by the local municipality. As an act of cheeky defiance, he ordered the construction of the minaret as a substitute. Its construction was led by the architect Hardmuth, who had a difficult task given the extremely swampy ground the structure is built on. This was overcome by driving wooden piles deep into the soil to act as a foundation. The minaret has a wide base structure with turrets and arcades lining the roof, all topped with a crescent moon symbol. The exterior of the lower floor is decorated with textual inscriptions from the Koran written in Arabic script. The lower floor contains eight rooms with Moorish designs painted on the walls. The main tower provides views over the Lednice castle gardens and as far south as Valtice and the Austrian border. Today it is used as a lookout tower and is a popular attraction for visitors to the Lednice palace.
The Lednice-Valtice area is a possible day trip from Brno, Bratislava or Vienna. Local trains connect it to the nearby town of Břeclav, which is a major rail hub with regular trains to all the surrounding cities and international capitals. The Lednice-Valtice area can also be explored while staying in Mikulov, which is a lovely Czech town a few kilometres west of the region.
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Wednesday, February 9, 2011
Folk Culture Destinations # 2 - Terchová, Slovakia
Terchová is a small town with a big role in Slovak folk culture. Found in northern Slovakia a few kilometres east of the city of Žilina, this was the birthplace of the national hero Juraj Jánošík, an early 18th-century Robin Hood figure who stole from the rich landholders and gave to the poor peasants while becoming a symbol of national resistance. Today a statue of Jánošík overlooks the town from a hilltop, while a small museum contains artifacts and details from his life as an outlaw.
Several folk festivals of traditional dance and music are held each year in Terchová, as well as many other traditional cultural events. One of my favourites is the annual high-speed hay cutting championships held in late June. Competitors race to cut a patch of long grass in a field using a scythe in the traditional manner. There are individual time trials for male and female competitors, as well as team events where groups of five must cut larger areas of a field in the fastest possible time.
Spectators sing folk songs about working in the fields to encourage the contestants, and they follow the action intensely, since bragging rights for an entire year are on the line. The competitors are mostly locals from Terchová and the surrounding villages plus a few Slovaks from other regions of the country. At the end of each round, the competitors are rewarded for their efforts with a shot of plum brandy and a team of older women dressed in traditional costumes comes out to clean up the freshly cut grass with rakes. An awards ceremony follows at the end of the day with prizes for the winners in each category, while everyone enjoys plates of goulash cooked in a giant kettle over a fire. This is a wonderfully unique event and a great cultural experience to enjoy.
Terchová is easily reached by bus from the city of Žilina, which is on the main train line running through the country with frequent connections to Bratislava and Košice as well as several trains daily to Prague. There are a number of small hotels in Terchová and lots of guesthouses, I've stayed at the Penzion Furmanec several times, but there are many more, including the Penzion Goral, Penzion Terchová, and Penzion Montana.
Saturday, February 5, 2011
A Croatian Top 30 - The Best Destinations in Croatia
The Croatian coastal areas of Dalmatia and Istria have become extremely popular destinations and rightly so, but there's so much more to see and experience in this oddly-shaped Slavic nation. The interior is still an unknown quantity for most visitors, while some stretches of coastline and a few islands still hold promise for those who want to get away from the mass tourist crowds. Here are my favourite spots in Croatia - the first dozen are quite well-known, but many of the others are still visited by far fewer foreign travellers than they deserve. Enjoy!
1. Dubrovnik - Everyone knows about this wonderful coastal city with its unmatchable collection of marble streets and baroque buildings. A walk along the top of the city walls while looking out over the Adriatic provides one of the most memorable views in all of Croatia, if not in the world.
2. Hvar Island - A place of endless sunshine, beaches and glamourous luxury, Hvar receives the second-highest number of tourist visitors in the country after Dubrovnik. Hvar Town is a compact settlement of classical buildings and gothic palaces with an extensive assortment of swanky restaurants and boutique hotels. The Španjol, the medieval citadel on the hill above the town, gives superlative views out over the harbour and surrounding islands.
3. Plitvice Lakes National Park - A series of turquoise-coloured lakes and waterfalls connected by a network of wooden walkways that allow visitors to get right up close and rather wet. The park contains 16 lakes, with the upper lakes being the most impressive due to the thick green forest that surrounds them. Plitvice is actually the place where the Yugoslav civil war began in March 1991, when Serb forces took control of the national park buildings. Luckily, the conflict caused no damage to the natural environment of Plitvice, which remains as lovely as ever.
4. Split - A city built around a Roman emperor's palace, Split is Croatia's second-largest city after Zagreb. Within the huge palace walls a marble street plan forms the core of the old city, with daily life unfolding in the courtyards and narrow laneways. The city is often overlooked by many who use it merely as a transportation hub, but spend an evening strolling in the old town and you'll be won over by Split's mysterious magic.
5. Rovinj - A small fishing community that has become the most popular destination in Istria, Rovinj's appeal stems from its perfect old town of cobbled streets and piazzas that surround the hilltop church of St. Euphemia. Several green islands off the coast from the Rovinj peninsula are reachable by boat and make a great day excursion.
6. Korčula Island - A place of forests, olive groves, vineyards and traditional villages, Korčula is a great place to sample Croatian music and culture. Korčula Town is a marble beauty of Gothic and Renaissance buildings with red rooftops and palm trees all around.
7. Zagreb - The capital of Croatia is a world apart from the coast, a bustling big city with an old town of Austro-Hungarian architecture at its centre. Museums, art and cultural attractions are plentiful, while the historic district is full of quirky cafes and coffee houses. It's worth taking two or three days to settle in and get to know the place.
8. Zadar - A Dalmatian coastal city of marble streets and Roman ruins with excellent nightlife. The Sea Organ and Sun Salutation are two unique sculptural features of the town's shoreline.
9. Trogir - A lovely walled town not far along the Dalmatian coast from Split. Romanesque churches and buildings remain from Venetian colonial days, an impressive enough collection to warrant giving the town UNESCO heritage status.
10. Mljet Island - An unspoiled Dalmatian island that has been mostly protected from resorts and other tourist development. The western end of the island is a National Park, where the Big and Small Lakes are the main attraction. In the middle of Big Lake there is an island with a monastery on it which can be visited.
11. Rab Town - A beautiful small town on Rab Island with four tall bell towers that rise above the stone houses which surround them on the hillside. There are several terrific beaches within easy reach of the town.
12. Poreč - A busy tourist centre in the summer months, Poreč is a much more rewarding place to visit in spring or autumn. The old town contains the Euphrasian Basilica, a 6th century structure with UNESCO status.
13. Tramuntana Region of Cres Island - A region of forests and abandoned villages with great potential for hikers. Beli is the main village in the region, while Lubenice is another hilltop village on the western side of the island which is also well worth visiting.
14. Varaždin - A pleasant town north of Zagreb featuring a Baroque old town and the impressive Stari Grad fortress. This was the capital of Croatia in the 18th century, and many buildings survive from that important period.
15. Kornati Islands National Park - A rugged, rocky series of barren islands with many caves and steep cliffs, these are some of the most beautifully scenic islands in the country. Visitors head to Kornat and Piškera island to see the bizarre stone formations.
16. Vis Island - Probably the least-touristed of the main islands, Vis was off-limits to foreigners until 1989. Now visitors from all over come to enjoy the peaceful way of life and the great seafood.
17. Pula - A city on the Istrian coast with one of the most well-preserved Roman amphitheatres in existence. Further Roman buildings, temples and arches can be seen in the old town centre.
18. Elafiti Islands - A group of small islands close to Dubrovnik that make ideal daytrips by ferry. Šipan is the largest, but my favourite is Lopud, with a quiet village of stone houses and a long stretch of sandy beach in a cove on the opposite side of the island.
19. Krka National Park - A series of lakes and waterfalls which are of similar beauty to those at Plitvice, but with far fewer foreign tourists about. It is possible to take a picturesque swim below some of the waterfalls.
20. Šibenik - A Dalmatian coastal town with the Gothic Cathedral of St. James, a UNESCO-listed monument. The old town of marble streets features 16th-century buildings clustered around several squares. The surrounding coast is clogged with hotels and resorts, but the town centre is worth a day's exploring.
21. Motovun - A small hilltop town in the Istrian interior with an intact set of surrounding walls. Gothic buildings dot the centre, and the views of the surrounding countryside encourage you to sit over a glass of wine and take it all in.
22. Veliki Tabor Castle - This five-sided fortress north of Zagreb is probably the most interesting castle in the Croatian interior. The 16th-century structure is set in hilly, forested country with many hiking trails nearby.
23. Primošten - A beautiful tiny coastal town on a peninsula south of Šibenik, with medieval houses and narrow laneways. A lone church tower stands out on the hill above the town's old stone buildings.
24. Brijuni Islands - Made famous as the private retreat of Tito, the former leader of Yugoslavia. His Bijela Vila home on Veli Brijun island was his place of residence for six months of the year and was used to host visiting heads of state.
25. Samobor - A relaxing small town just a few kilometres west of Zagreb surrounded by forested hills that are great for hiking trips.
26. Osijek - The main city of Slavonia region, Osijek was a major battlefield during the Balkan wars of the 1990's. A large citadel surrounds the old town centre, which features cobblestone streets and baroque buildings. A few shell scars on the sides of buildings remain from the time of the conflict, but the city is rapidly restoring its historic centre.
27. Pazin - The main town of the Istrian interior, Pazin is famous as the location of the deep chasm that inspired Jules Verne to write the book called Mathias Sandorf with its events taking place in Pazin. The large castle that overlooks the chasm is also the finest in Istria.
28. Opatija - a small town along the coast from Rijeka which is set on one of the most beautiful stretches of the Croatian shoreline. The town developed as a seaside resort for the rich and famous during the Austro-Hungarian empire, and today it is visited by tourists for the excellent sea food restaurants in the nearby village of Volosko.
29. Kumrovec - The hometown of Josip Broz Tito, this is a pretty little village not far from the border with Slovenia. Today it has been turned into an open-air museum as a recreation of a 19th-century Croatian village. A statue of Tito stands proudly outside the house where he was born.
30. Trakošcan Castle - Another impressive castle found north of Zagreb, surrounded by beautiful parks and gardens and a small lake. Originally Romanesque, the castle was reconstructed in a neo-Gothic style in the 19th century.
1. Dubrovnik - Everyone knows about this wonderful coastal city with its unmatchable collection of marble streets and baroque buildings. A walk along the top of the city walls while looking out over the Adriatic provides one of the most memorable views in all of Croatia, if not in the world.
2. Hvar Island - A place of endless sunshine, beaches and glamourous luxury, Hvar receives the second-highest number of tourist visitors in the country after Dubrovnik. Hvar Town is a compact settlement of classical buildings and gothic palaces with an extensive assortment of swanky restaurants and boutique hotels. The Španjol, the medieval citadel on the hill above the town, gives superlative views out over the harbour and surrounding islands.
3. Plitvice Lakes National Park - A series of turquoise-coloured lakes and waterfalls connected by a network of wooden walkways that allow visitors to get right up close and rather wet. The park contains 16 lakes, with the upper lakes being the most impressive due to the thick green forest that surrounds them. Plitvice is actually the place where the Yugoslav civil war began in March 1991, when Serb forces took control of the national park buildings. Luckily, the conflict caused no damage to the natural environment of Plitvice, which remains as lovely as ever.
4. Split - A city built around a Roman emperor's palace, Split is Croatia's second-largest city after Zagreb. Within the huge palace walls a marble street plan forms the core of the old city, with daily life unfolding in the courtyards and narrow laneways. The city is often overlooked by many who use it merely as a transportation hub, but spend an evening strolling in the old town and you'll be won over by Split's mysterious magic.
5. Rovinj - A small fishing community that has become the most popular destination in Istria, Rovinj's appeal stems from its perfect old town of cobbled streets and piazzas that surround the hilltop church of St. Euphemia. Several green islands off the coast from the Rovinj peninsula are reachable by boat and make a great day excursion.
6. Korčula Island - A place of forests, olive groves, vineyards and traditional villages, Korčula is a great place to sample Croatian music and culture. Korčula Town is a marble beauty of Gothic and Renaissance buildings with red rooftops and palm trees all around.
7. Zagreb - The capital of Croatia is a world apart from the coast, a bustling big city with an old town of Austro-Hungarian architecture at its centre. Museums, art and cultural attractions are plentiful, while the historic district is full of quirky cafes and coffee houses. It's worth taking two or three days to settle in and get to know the place.
8. Zadar - A Dalmatian coastal city of marble streets and Roman ruins with excellent nightlife. The Sea Organ and Sun Salutation are two unique sculptural features of the town's shoreline.
9. Trogir - A lovely walled town not far along the Dalmatian coast from Split. Romanesque churches and buildings remain from Venetian colonial days, an impressive enough collection to warrant giving the town UNESCO heritage status.
10. Mljet Island - An unspoiled Dalmatian island that has been mostly protected from resorts and other tourist development. The western end of the island is a National Park, where the Big and Small Lakes are the main attraction. In the middle of Big Lake there is an island with a monastery on it which can be visited.
11. Rab Town - A beautiful small town on Rab Island with four tall bell towers that rise above the stone houses which surround them on the hillside. There are several terrific beaches within easy reach of the town.
12. Poreč - A busy tourist centre in the summer months, Poreč is a much more rewarding place to visit in spring or autumn. The old town contains the Euphrasian Basilica, a 6th century structure with UNESCO status.
13. Tramuntana Region of Cres Island - A region of forests and abandoned villages with great potential for hikers. Beli is the main village in the region, while Lubenice is another hilltop village on the western side of the island which is also well worth visiting.
14. Varaždin - A pleasant town north of Zagreb featuring a Baroque old town and the impressive Stari Grad fortress. This was the capital of Croatia in the 18th century, and many buildings survive from that important period.
15. Kornati Islands National Park - A rugged, rocky series of barren islands with many caves and steep cliffs, these are some of the most beautifully scenic islands in the country. Visitors head to Kornat and Piškera island to see the bizarre stone formations.
16. Vis Island - Probably the least-touristed of the main islands, Vis was off-limits to foreigners until 1989. Now visitors from all over come to enjoy the peaceful way of life and the great seafood.
17. Pula - A city on the Istrian coast with one of the most well-preserved Roman amphitheatres in existence. Further Roman buildings, temples and arches can be seen in the old town centre.
18. Elafiti Islands - A group of small islands close to Dubrovnik that make ideal daytrips by ferry. Šipan is the largest, but my favourite is Lopud, with a quiet village of stone houses and a long stretch of sandy beach in a cove on the opposite side of the island.
19. Krka National Park - A series of lakes and waterfalls which are of similar beauty to those at Plitvice, but with far fewer foreign tourists about. It is possible to take a picturesque swim below some of the waterfalls.
20. Šibenik - A Dalmatian coastal town with the Gothic Cathedral of St. James, a UNESCO-listed monument. The old town of marble streets features 16th-century buildings clustered around several squares. The surrounding coast is clogged with hotels and resorts, but the town centre is worth a day's exploring.
21. Motovun - A small hilltop town in the Istrian interior with an intact set of surrounding walls. Gothic buildings dot the centre, and the views of the surrounding countryside encourage you to sit over a glass of wine and take it all in.
22. Veliki Tabor Castle - This five-sided fortress north of Zagreb is probably the most interesting castle in the Croatian interior. The 16th-century structure is set in hilly, forested country with many hiking trails nearby.
23. Primošten - A beautiful tiny coastal town on a peninsula south of Šibenik, with medieval houses and narrow laneways. A lone church tower stands out on the hill above the town's old stone buildings.
24. Brijuni Islands - Made famous as the private retreat of Tito, the former leader of Yugoslavia. His Bijela Vila home on Veli Brijun island was his place of residence for six months of the year and was used to host visiting heads of state.
25. Samobor - A relaxing small town just a few kilometres west of Zagreb surrounded by forested hills that are great for hiking trips.
26. Osijek - The main city of Slavonia region, Osijek was a major battlefield during the Balkan wars of the 1990's. A large citadel surrounds the old town centre, which features cobblestone streets and baroque buildings. A few shell scars on the sides of buildings remain from the time of the conflict, but the city is rapidly restoring its historic centre.
27. Pazin - The main town of the Istrian interior, Pazin is famous as the location of the deep chasm that inspired Jules Verne to write the book called Mathias Sandorf with its events taking place in Pazin. The large castle that overlooks the chasm is also the finest in Istria.
28. Opatija - a small town along the coast from Rijeka which is set on one of the most beautiful stretches of the Croatian shoreline. The town developed as a seaside resort for the rich and famous during the Austro-Hungarian empire, and today it is visited by tourists for the excellent sea food restaurants in the nearby village of Volosko.
29. Kumrovec - The hometown of Josip Broz Tito, this is a pretty little village not far from the border with Slovenia. Today it has been turned into an open-air museum as a recreation of a 19th-century Croatian village. A statue of Tito stands proudly outside the house where he was born.
30. Trakošcan Castle - Another impressive castle found north of Zagreb, surrounded by beautiful parks and gardens and a small lake. Originally Romanesque, the castle was reconstructed in a neo-Gothic style in the 19th century.
Monday, January 24, 2011
Photo Challenge # 12 - Name This Location
Here's the latest photo challenge for you to try, do you know where this was taken? As usual, clicking on the photo to enlarge it may help. Good luck!
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Eastern Europe,
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Tuesday, January 18, 2011
Wooden Churches of the Carpathian Mountains # 9 - Šemetkovce, Slovakia
This pretty little church is found on a small wooded hill above the village of Šemetkovce in the Svidník region of eastern Slovakia. It is a Greek-Catholic church named for St. Michael the Archangel, and dates from the year 1752. Like most wooden churches in the region, the structure was built without the use of metal nails using an ingenious woodcut pattern with wooden pegs inserted at the end of each log to hold the beams in place.
Another typical feature of Greek-Catholic churches which is found in the Šemetkovce church is the emphasis placed on the number three, symbolising the Holy Trinity. Three domes, three crosses, three rooms in the interior and three doors leading below the iconostasis are all typical features. The three domes rise in height from east to west, with the doorway facing west, also a typical feature of Greek-Catholic design. The iconostasis is of baroque style, designed in the late 18th century, while some of the icons date from the 17th century.
The church was badly damaged in World War Two, and extensive reconstruction work was undertaken in 1969 and 1970, and further renovations were necessary in 2001. Standing next to the church there is a tall wooden belfry with bells that are rung daily. The church and belfry were originally surrounded by a log fence, though today there is a more modern metal fence. The village of Šemetkovce is set in lovely hilly scenery and has a few old-fashioned folk cottages along its laneways.
The village can be reached by bus from Svidník just a few times a day from Monday to Friday, and there are no buses on Saturday or Sunday. Another option if you are without your own vehicle is to take the bus from Svidník to Ladomirová (be sure to stop and see the wooden church in that village as well) and then try to hitch-hike the last seven kilometres to Šemetkovce. That's how I did it when I visited, there were no problems getting a lift from some of the locals since the roads are small and everybody knows everybody else in this region. There are hiking trails which connect together many of the villages with wooden churches in the Svidník region, and it is possible to hike from Šemetkovce across to Kožuchovce village, close to Miroľa village with its wonderful wooden church.
Sunday, January 9, 2011
Classic Castles # 3 - Gori, Georgia
The oval-shaped fortress of Gori stands high on a rocky hill in the centre of the Georgian city of the same name. The current structure dates from the 13th century, though the hilltop site is thought to have been fortified since the 1st century BC. Locals claim the fortress was conquered by the Romans in the 1st century AD. In the 16th century it was captured by the Ottoman Turks, and the fortress changed hands many times in the following centuries with periods of control by the Georgians, Turks and Persians.
The territory of Georgia was annexed by the Russians in 1801, and the Russian army kept a garrison of soldiers in the castle. By the mid-19th century the fortress had been abandoned, and it slowly fell into ruin. A major earthquake in 1920 caused significant damage to the structure. The castle interior has not been preserved, and today there is little to see inside the walls.
However, the steep climb up to the fortress is well worth the effort for the superb view it provides across all of Gori and the green countryside beyond. The castle is permanently open to the public, and there is no admission fee. The trail leading to the top begins on the side of the castle closest to the central square, so if you are approaching it from the bus/marshrutka station you will need to walk around the base of the hill to the other side.
Gori is connected by bus and marshrutka with most other major cities in Georgia. It is possible to visit Gori as a daytrip from Tbilisi, taking a marshrutka there and back. Trains also connect the city with Tbilisi and the Black Sea coast, but they are infrequent and slow and not really a convenient way to travel, particularly to Tbilisi. Gori's other major attraction for tourists is the Stalin museum, dedicated to the life of the Soviet leader who was born in the city.
Labels:
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Tbilisi
Monday, January 3, 2011
Beautiful Towns # 7 - Cetinje, Montenegro
Cetinje is a pretty town with a proud history in the mountainous interior of Montenegro. A former capital of the Montenegrin kingdom, it is considered to be the spiritual and religious heart of this small Mediterranean nation. Cetinje was somewhat surprised to find itself declared a capital city when Montenegro's independence was declared in 1878. At the time it had a population of just 6,000, which made it the world's smallest capital.
Many grandly designed embassies and government buildings were erected during this period which still grace the streets of the town today. During the communist period the capital of the Montenegrin socialist republic of Yugoslavia was moved to Titograd (now Podgorica), and Cetinje was left to become a peaceful small town once more. Today the population is about 15,000, but the town continues to have an expanded national importance in the modern Montenegrin state due to its status as the former royal capital.
The stone Cetinje Monastery is the seat of the Orthodox church in Montenegro. It was first built in 1701 and was destroyed repeatedly in a series of Turkish invasions, but was always faithfully rebuilt by the local inhabitants. The monastery houses the relics of Saint Peter of Cetinje, an important figure in Montenegrin history. Another church of historical interest is the Vlach church, built in 1450. It is encircled by a symbolic fence made from the barrels of enemy rifles captured during the fight for independence from the Ottoman Turks. Another noteworthy building in Cetinje is the Palace of King Nicholas I, which today provides a home for The National Museum of Montenegro. The museum features extensive exhibits (with some English-language labelling) on the history of the struggle for national independence.
The town is an essential stop on a tour of Montenegro in order to get a full impression of this pint-sized country's sense of self. Cetinje can be reached by bus from most parts of Montenegro, with many daily connections from Podgorica and Budva. It makes an excellent day-trip from Kotor or Budva on the coast.
Sunday, January 2, 2011
Remarkable Relics of Communism # 6 - Prague, Czech Republic
In the Royal Garden next to Prague Castle, not far from the Royal Summer Residence, you will find the Royal Ball Game Hall. This building dates from the 16th century and was used by the king's courtiers for sporting activities. The structure was damaged by fire in May 1945 during the last stages of World War Two, but it was fully rebuilt in the 1950's. Along with the many mythological deities that were carefully restored on the facade, a small addition was made that remains as a quirky reminder of the communist period. A figure unfurling a scroll meant to be a five-year plan with a hammer and sickle was included in the design, together with the letters 'ČSR', for Czechoslovak Socialist Republic. This is a detail that you have to look closely to find (it's along the top row of the facade near the roof), so be sure to stop and take a closer look if you are visiting Prague Castle.
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