Beautiful Towns # 8 - Mtskheta, Georgia

The small town of Mtskheta, located just a short distance north of the Georgian capital Tbilisi, holds a far greater historical and religious significance in the hearts of all Georgians than its small size would suggest. Mtskheta was the capital of the ancient Georgian kingdom of Iberia from the 3rd century BC to the early 6th century AD, and served as the cradle of Christianity in the Georgian nation at the beginning of the 4th century.

As a result, it contains a proud assortment of historical monuments which have earned it a place on UNESCO's world heritage list. The 11th-century Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and the 6th-century Jvari monastery are some of the most important religious buildings in the country, and the town remains the spiritual centre of the Georgian Orthodox Church.

Both churches contain priceless inscriptions written in the ancient Georgian alphabet, as well as icons and frescoes of stunning beauty and artistic creativity. When passing Mtskheta on the highway, passengers seated in cars, buses and marshrutkas will instinctively turn towards these churches and cross themselves.

Other significant sites to visit include the impressive bulk of the 14th-century Bebris Tsikhe fortress which sits on a small hill at the edge of the town, providing a great vantage point for views out over Mtskheta and the Mtkvari river. The 11th-century Samtavro monastery situated in the nearby hills is another important place of religious pilgrimage.

The climb to the summit far above the river where the Jvari Monastery sits is one of the most rewarding experiences Mtskheta can offer to foreign visitors, the views and atmosphere provide an experience that is distinctly Georgian.

Getting to Mtskheta from Tbilisi is easy for visitors since marshrutkas and buses travel the 20-kilometre distance frequently. It is easier to stay in Tbilisi with its greater selection of accommodation and restaurants, though Mtskheta does have a number of guesthouses for those looking to stay outside of the capital. Buses and marshrutkas continue westwards from Mtskheta to Gori, making it just about possible to visit both of these cities from Tbilisi as a long daytrip (though both really warrant a full day each to see them thoroughly).

Essential Travel Destinations # 1 - Berat, Albania

Every country has at least one standout travel destination that features in all the tourist brochures and is considered the finest example of the national culture, architecture or landscape. In this new section called 'Unmissable Destinations' I'll highlight some of the finest attractions in the region of Central and Eastern Europe which should be on everyone's itinerary.

Berat is a remarkable town on the Osum river in south-central Albania. Packed full of distinctive white-washed Ottoman-era houses, the town luckily managed to slip through the communist period with its historic character still intact thanks to its status as a protected museum city under Enver Hoxha's regime. A huge medieval citadel known as the Kala sits perched on a clifftop above the town, providing superlative views of the surrounding Tomorr mountains and the surrounding countryside.

A collection of unique Ottoman buildings wrapped around the foot of the hill give the town its nickname of 'the city of a thousand windows', since they feature rows of large windowpanes which appear to be stacked on top of one another as the buildings climb up the steep hillside. The old town area known as Mangalem has been designated a UNESCO world heritage site and is now carefully preserved.

The lower town contains a number of historic mosques which are worth visiting such as the leaded mosque, and an Ottoman-era Han, a traditional traveller's inn. The city was founded over 2000 years ago, but the current name of 'Berat' is thought to be derived from the Serbian name 'Beligrad' (White City) which is how it was known during the Middle Ages.

An ethnographic museum is located inside a traditional Ottoman house and features displays on daily life in Berat through the centuries. Another worthwhile museum is the Onufri museum located inside a former church; it includes a fantastic collection of medieval byzantine icons by the 16th-century Albanian painter known as Onufri. Just inside the main gates of the Kala is an excellent restaurant which makes a good spot for lunch while exploring the fortress.

A number of restaurants in the lower town can also provide traditional Albanian meals. The easiest way to travel from Tirana to Berat is by furgon (minibus), which costs about 500 Lek. Buses also make this journey. The best place to stay is at Berat Backpackers, a hostel (currently the only one in the town) located across the river and up the hill from Mangalem.

Classic Castles # 3 - Gori, Georgia

The oval-shaped fortress of Gori stands high on a rocky hill in the centre of the Georgian city of the same name. The current structure dates from the 13th century, though the hilltop site is thought to have been fortified since the 1st century BC. Locals claim the fortress was conquered by the Romans in the 1st century AD. In the 16th century it was captured by the Ottoman Turks, and the fortress changed hands many times in the following centuries with periods of control by the Georgians, Turks and Persians.

The territory of Georgia was annexed by the Russians in 1801, and the Russian army kept a garrison of soldiers in the castle. By the mid-19th century the fortress had been abandoned, and it slowly fell into ruin. A major earthquake in 1920 caused significant damage to the structure. The castle interior has not been preserved, and today there is little to see inside the walls.

However, the steep climb up to the fortress is well worth the effort for the superb view it provides across all of Gori and the green countryside beyond. The castle is permanently open to the public, and there is no admission fee. The trail leading to the top begins on the side of the castle closest to the central square, so if you are approaching it from the bus/marshrutka station you will need to walk around the base of the hill to the other side.

Gori is connected by bus and marshrutka with most other major cities in Georgia. It is possible to visit Gori as a daytrip from Tbilisi, taking a marshrutka there and back. Trains also connect the city with Tbilisi and the Black Sea coast, but they are infrequent and slow and not really a convenient way to travel, particularly to Tbilisi. Gori's other major attraction for tourists is the Stalin museum, dedicated to the life of the Soviet leader who was born in the city.

Classic Castles # 2 - Gýmeš, Slovakia

This large castle ruin sits on a wooded hilltop above the village of Jelenec in the Tribeč mountains, about 20 kilometres north-east of the city of Nitra. The current structure dates from around 1270, when it was constructed as a Gothic palace, although it was built on the site of an earlier fort.

The first owners were the Forgách family, who controlled the castle for several centuries. A peasant revolt against worsening living conditions and increased taxes in 1610 had to be suppressed by force by the Forgáchs. The Ottoman Turkish armies conquered the castle in 1530 and caused significant damage to it, and it was conquered again by the Turks in 1663. Following this period it was fully reconstructed and it remained in use up until the mid-19th century, when it was abandoned and slowly fell into ruin.

Today many parts of the structure remain intact, including several tunnels, standing arches and a chapel. The castle is slowly being reclaimed by the forest, and large trees are growing all through the structure. The castle can be reached on foot following the walking trail from the village of Jelenec, it's about a one hour walk up through the forest. Another access point is from the village of Kostoľany pod Tribečom, which is considerably closer to the castle and has a path leading there that requires a hike of about 45 minutes.

In the village of Kostoľany pod Tribečom there is an another worthwhile attraction to stop and see, the 11th century Romanesque church of St. George, which features design elements typical of the Great Moravian Empire period. Both Jelencec and Kostoľany pod Tribečom are accessible by bus from Nitra, with regular buses stopping in Jelenec which is near the main road heading east towards Banská Bystrica.

Classic Castles #1 - Kokořín, Czech Republic

This gothic castle is located 60km north of Prague in a region called Kokořínsko, an area of thickly wooded hills and valleys featuring sandstone cliffs and strangely-shaped rock formations. The region is a popular place for hiking, as many marked trails wind through the dense forests. The castle sits on a steep rocky outcrop overlooking the green valley below.

The earliest mention of the structure is from 1320, when a fortress carved out of the surrounding sandstone was constructed. By the 16th century the castle was in poor condition, and was placed on a list of structures that were not to be maintained by the Czech state. Legends describe how the castle was then occupied by robbers and bandits such as Petrovsky of Petrovice who used it as a base from which to terrorize and pillage the region. In the 19th century the castle was left in ruins, but its isolated location and gloomy atmosphere brought it to the attention of a generation of Czech Romantic poets and painters such as K.H. Macha and Josef Manes, for whom the fortress was a source of great inspiration. The castle was purchased in 1895 and reconstructed over the next two decades by Václav Špaček, who wanted to make the structure into a family memorial. This refurbishment marked the first time a castle in the Czech lands was restored to its historical appearance.

Today the castle has been returned to the ownership of the Špaček family, who intend to keep it open to the public as a museum. A guided tour will take you through the exhibits of the interior, and it is also possible to buy a ticket to climb the tower and battlements. The second option is a more rewarding choice as the exhibits on display are less memorable than the views from the castle walls. The best way to reach Kokořín from Prague using public transport is to take a bus from Praha-Holesovice station to the town of Mělník (which is worth spending time in as well), and then changing to another bus to the village of Kokořín. The bus will drop you in the centre of the village, and from there the castle is 1.5 kilometres further along the road and then down a forest path.

Beautiful Towns # 5 - Kruja, Albania

This small historic town sits on a steep mountainside north of the capital Tirana. The drive up the winding road full of hairpin turns is thrilling and impossibly scenic, particularly if you're bouncing up and down and hanging on for dear life in the back of a Furgon (An Albanian taxivan).

The town features an old cobbled market bazaar with many brightly-coloured carpets and metalwork for sale, as well as a few souvenirs for the relatively small number of foreign tourists that make it here. Kruja castle is the former stronghold of the country's greatest hero, Skanderbeg, who united the Albanian princes in their fight against the invasion of the Ottoman Turks.

Skanderbeg kept the Ottomans at bay for 35 years (1443 to 1478) during four sieges that were made on the castle. Although he was killed in the final siege and the castle fell shortly after, today he is revered as the greatest of all Albanians. Today a museum to Skanderbeg sits at the centre of the castle complex; it was designed by the daughter and son-in-law of the communist dictator Enver Hoxha and originally contained exhibits where Skanderbeg and Hoxha were given equal billing as heroes of the state. In the modern museum all traces of Hoxha have been removed, and the museum is now dedicated solely to Skanderbeg and provides a broad overview of Albanian history in the Ottoman period.

The town of Kruja and its connection to Skanderbeg continue to be a source of pride and inspiration for all Albanians. Kruja can be reached from Tirana by bus or taxivan and makes an easy daytrip from the capital. There are a number of traditional restaurants in the historic part of the town to try local cuisine.