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Showing posts with label Top Destinations. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Top Destinations. Show all posts
Saturday, April 19, 2014
Day Trips From Lviv, Ukraine - The Top 30 Destinations
Lviv is a gorgeous city of cobbled squares and laneways to wander in for a few days. Its crumbling buildings from the days of Austro-Hungary wouldn't look out of place in Krakow or Prague, but the absence of tourists in the old Galician capital lends it an authenticity which neither of those cities can offer nowadays. Beyond the historic centre there are two more worthwhile sights in the outskirts, the Lviv Outdoor Folk Architecture Museum and the highly atmospheric Lychakiv cemetery. There are also many attractive historic towns, monasteries, castles and wooden churches within range of a day trip by public transport. Natural attractions with potential for hiking lie to the south in the forested foothills of the Carpathian mountains. This list includes the top thirty day trips to make in the surrounding countryside of Lviv region, ranked in order of their general tourist appeal. The so-called "Golden Horseshoe" route, with a name which is reminiscent of Moscow's "Golden Ring" of historic towns, includes Olesko castle, Pidhirtsi castle and Zolochiv castle, which are among the most popular day trip destinations for tour groups. All of these destinations can be reached by train, bus or marshrutka with a little effort, so go ahead and try exploring a bit further afield.
1. Pochayiv Monastery - One of the finest monasteries in Ukraine, and the most important monastery of the Orthodox church in the western part of the country. It rivals the Pechersk monastery in Kyiv in size and historical significance. Since the monastery lies more than 100 kilometres east of Lviv this is a fairly long day trip by bus or marshrutka, but is certainly worth the effort to see one of the region's best attractions.
2. Zhovkva - This historic town to the north of Lviv boasts a castle, a historic central square and town centre packed with centuries-old churches, and a UNESCO-listed wooden church at the edge of town. There is also another impressive wooden church to see in the neighbouring village of Stara Skvaryana. This is one of the easiest day trips from Lviv and among the most enjoyable. Arriving by marshrutka is the fastest and easiest method.
3. Olesko Castle - This 14th-century hilltop castle east of Lviv forms part of the "Golden Horseshoe" sightseeing route and is one of the most visited castles in Lviv region.
4. Zolochiv Castle - This 17th-century castle (though it looks more like a palace) lies 60 kilometres east of Lviv. The Chinese Palace within the castle grounds is particularly impressive.
5. Ivano-Frankivsk - This city to the south of Lviv features a collection of architectural gems from its long history, including many buildings from the Austro-Hungarian period. The city's cathedral, Armenian church and unusual town hall are among the most impressive sights.
6. Lutsk - This historic city to the north-east of Lviv has an old town centre with many impressive churches and cathedrals and a large castle complex.
7. Pidhirtsi Castle - This 17th-century castle (though like Zolochiv castle it looks more like a palace) lies to the east of Lviv not far from Olesko castle.
8. Kremenets - A hilltop castle ruin and historic centre with many Orthodox churches and a monastery are the main draws in this town to the north-east of Lviv. Many people try to combine a visit here with Pochayiv monastery, though it would be ambitious to try to see both in a day by public transport.
9. Drohobych - This town south of Lviv features a clutch of Austro-Hungarian buildings, but its main attractions are its two outstanding wooden churches, including one with UNESCO heritage listing.
10. Tustan Rock Fortress - A castle stronghold which was carved out of towering sandstone rock outcrops near the village of Urych, to the south of Lviv near the town of Boryslav. This is one of the best natural attractions near Lviv and offers good hiking in the surrounding forested hills.
11. Univ Monastery - The only Lavra monastery of the Greek Catholic church in Ukraine. Its large white defensive walls surround a church, bell tower and ecclesiastical buildings. It lies in the village of Univ, which is 40 kilometres east of Lviv.
12. Svirzh Castle - A 15th-century fortified residence which is surrounded by a series of lakes which once helped to defend it from attack. This is a relatively easy day trip since the castle lies just 35 kilometres south-east of Lviv near the town of Bibrka.
13. Krekhiv Monastery - A 16th-century fortified Basilian monastery found to the north of Lviv near the town of Zhovkva.
14. Stare Selo castle - The sprawling ruins of this 17th-century castle lie in Stare Selo village, less than 20 kilometres south-east of Lviv. There is also a wooden church to see in the neighbouring village of Cherepyn.
15. Dovbush Rock Fortress - A fortress carved out of the tall sandstone rock outcrops near the village of Bubnyshche, lying to the south of the city of Stryi, near the town of Bolekhiv. Legends claim that this was once the hideout of the Carpathian outlaw Oleksa Dovbush.
16. Rozhirche Cave Monastery - A monastery in caves carved out of the rock of a hillside. Monks dug the series of tunnels and rooms between the 13th and 16th centuries. The village of Rozhirche is south of Lviv close to the Dovbush Rock Fortress, and both can be combined into a single day trip (if travelling by car).
17. Halych - This small town to the south-east of Lviv features a ruined castle, and the neighbouring village of Krylos contains an Outdoor Folk Architecture museum which includes a reconstructed wooden church among other historic farm buildings and cottages.
18. Sambir - A historic small town to the south-west of Lviv near the Polish border, with several beautiful old churches.
19. Rohatyn - This small town to the south-east of Lviv contains a very impressive UNESCO-listed wooden church.
20. Mount Parashka - This is the highest point in the Skole Beskids National Park at 1268 metres. The trail to the top makes for a very scenic day hike through mountain meadows full of wild flowers in the summer.
21. Truskavets - This picturesque spa town to the south of Lviv contains many 19th-century Austro-Hungarian buildings. The many wooden villas surround the source of fourteen mineral water springs.
22. Zymne Monastery - This is a 13th-century fortified Orthodox monastery to the north of Lviv. The thick walls, battlements and towers which surround the complex once provided formidable defensive capabilities.
23. Potelych - A small village with a UNESCO-listed wooden church near the Polish border to the north-west of Lviv.
24. Kuty - One of the finest wooden churches in Lviv region can be seen in the small village of Kuty, just north of Olesko Castle. It was constructed in 1697.
25. Pidkamin Monastery - This 17th-century fortified monastery lies east of Lviv in the village of Pidkamin. The village takes its name ('Pidkamin' means 'Below the Rock') from the huge boulder on the hilltop at the edge of the settlement.
26. Komarno - An 18th-century wooden church in the Boyko style lies in this small town south of Lviv. There is also another impressive wooden church in the neighbouring village of Klitsko, 2 kilometres away from Komarno.
27. Belz - A 17th-century wooden church can be seen in this town to the north-west of Lviv near the Polish border.
28. Cherche - This village to the south-east of Lviv on the road towards Rohatyn contains one of the oldest wooden churches in the region.
29. Berestechko - A collection of historic churches dominate this small town to the north-east from Lviv.
30. Kuhaiv - A very old wooden church stands in this small village 15 kilometres south of Lviv.
Saturday, April 5, 2014
Day Trips from Lublin, Poland - The Top 5 Destinations
Lublin is a rare thing in Poland these days, an attractive historical city which has yet to be fully discovered by foreign tourists. The hilly cobbled streets of the old town are full of colourful building facades and outdoor cafes, while medieval gate towers and an unusual castle complex add to the picturesque skyline. On the outskirts of the city are two more tourist draws, the Majdanek WW2 concentration camp to the south and the outdoor folk architecture museum to the west. Both can be easily reached using local city buses. Beyond the city limits lie a number of worthwhile day trip destinations, and with many enjoyable restaurants and pubs Lublin makes a nice place to settle into as a base for several days. These are five of the best options for exploring outside Lublin, featuring a star rating out of five stars. The photos shown here feature, from top to bottom, Lublin, Zamość and Kazimierz Dolny.
**** Zamość - This UNESCO heritage-listed town is a perfect renaissance planned settlement, with walls and fortifications surrounding narrow streets and the showpiece old town square. Buses and minibuses depart from Lublin's main bus station and take 1 hour 30 minutes to 1 hour 45 minutes. Only a few trains per day go to and from Zamość so it isn't a very convenient way to get there, and they also take longer, 2 hours 10 minutes on average.
**** Kazimierz Dolny - This is one of the prettiest small towns in all of Poland, with a postcard-perfect central square of stone and wood buildings. Castles and churches are placed very picturesquely on the surrounding hilltops, and there are plenty of places to get a proper Polish meal after a lengthy stroll. If you decide to stay overnight here (many people do) don't miss crossing the river to see the castle in the neighbouring village of Janowiec, it makes a nice cycling trip. Bicycles are available for rent from several different businesses in the town. Buses and minibuses run regularly from Lublin's main bus station, taking 1 hour 10 minutes.
*** Kozłówka Palace and Socialist-Realist Art Gallery - The baroque palace is impressive enough, but the real reason to visit is for the gallery of socialist-realist art in the former horse stables. Buses and minibuses depart from Lublin's main bus station and take between 1 hour and 1 hour 15 minutes. Some buses are direct, others will require a change of buses in the small town of Lubartów.
** Chełm - This town near the Ukrainian border has a hilltop basilica and a few other historical buildings of note, but the real attraction is the city's underground chalk tunnels from the middle ages. Guides will lead you through the shafts and chambers by candlelight, and you can expect some chills when the resident ghost makes an appearance. Buses and minibuses depart regularly from Lublin's main bus station and take 1 hour and 15 minutes. Trains depart Lublin main station several times daily and take 1 hour 25 minutes.
** Pułavy Palace - This baroque palace complex to the north-west of Lublin features rooms packed with grand furniture and fittings, and outside there are impressive landscaped gardens. Buses and minibuses from Lublin main bus station take between 50 minutes and 1 hour, and several trains go directly to Puławy daily taking 35 minutes.
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Wednesday, November 24, 2010
The Top 30 Places to Visit in Ukraine
Ukraine can be a challenging destination to travel in for the independent foreign tourist, especially outside the cities. Language skills are essential, and an understanding of marshrutka etiquette will go a long way towards easing the hassles of your journey. Overnight train travel in Ukraine is one of my favourite experiences, I love the camaraderie which develops among the passengers as they share out items of food, swap stories and jokes, and then prepare the bunks for the night. Ukraine is a huge and fascinating country, and these are my favourite destinations it has to offer. I still need to visit a few more of the places on this list, I'm looking forward to the next trip!
1. Lviv - A grand old central European city with charm, character and architectural splendours galore. Certainly one of the most beautiful European cities that most foreign tourists have never heard of. In addition to the jaw-droppingly lovely old town, the city features a first-rate outdoor folk architecture museum and the romantic grounds of the Lychakivske Cemetery.
2. Kiev (Kyiv) - The capital and beating heart of modern Ukraine, yet simultaneously the most historic city in the country as well. Few relics remain from ancient Kyivan Rus, but the Pecherska Lavra cave monastery strongly evokes the power of ancient orthodox traditions. A trip by candle-light down into the narrow tunnels to view the mummified bodies of monks is a spooky experience to remember. The steep and winding cobbled lane of Andriyivsky Uzviz forms an impressive backbone to the old town. Just outside the city, the Pyrohovo outdoor folk museum is one of the best in Europe, with several complete villages of historic wooden cottages, churches and farm buildings.
3. Kamyanets Podilsky - A small medieval town perched on a tall pillar of rock and encircled by a deep river canyon. A massive fortress guards the narrow strip of land that connects the town to the mainland. Looking across at the town and castle from the surrounding cliffs is spectacular; the town offers some of the most picturesque views in the country.
4. The Carpathian Mountains National Park - A superb environment for hiking, biking, and getting in touch with traditional village life. Mount Hoverla is the highest peak in Ukraine at 2061 metres, making it a very popular climb with local tourists.
5. Odesa - A hedonistic playground with great nightlife and seaside attractions, along with historical sites to match. The Potemkin steps are what many people come to see, but there's much more to the city than film history.
6. Khotyn Castle - A large fortress which stands in a grassy clearing overlooking the Dnistr river. This is probably the finest castle in Ukraine, even upstaging the one in Kamyanets Podilsky.
7. Yalta - A palm-studded beach resort playground for Russian and Ukrainian holidaymakers, with the added attractions of nearby palaces and museums. The Lividia Palace where the Yalta conference was held in 1945 is nearby, as is the impressive Swallow's Nest castle.
8. Kolomyya - A small town at the edge of the Carpathian mountains with a museum of Hutsul folk culture, and another museum shaped like a giant egg - the Pysanky Easter Egg Museum is dedicated to the traditional art of egg painting, with many thousands of different designs on display.
9. Bakhchysaray - The centre of Tatar culture in Crimea, and home to the former Khan's palace. The nearby cave city of Chufut-Kale is one of the main highlights of the region.
10. Pochayiv Monastery - A more authentically devout experience than Pechersk Monastery in Kiev, this is the place to get in touch with the Orthodox soul. The golden domes and bell tower are a stunning sight on the horizon, particularly with fresh snow on the ground in winter.
11. The Wooden Churches of Transcarpathia - In tiny hillside villages across the region of Transcarpathia sit dozens of beautiful churches constructed of wood. Many of these historic structures are in need of urgent repair, with little funding available for their upkeep. Some of the finest examples of the different building styles can be seen in the villages of Uzhok, Yasniya, Rohatyn, Danylovo and Chornoholova.
12. Chernivtsi - A major city of western Ukraine with classical architecture dating from the time of the Habsburg Austrian empire. The highlight is the University, with a bizarre mix of Moorish and Byzantine styles designed by Czech architect Josef Hlavka.
13. Sudak Castle - A 14th-century Genoese castle perched on a cliff, with great views out over the sea and the surrounding Crimean landscape.
14. Yaremcha - A Carpathian mountain resort town, with plenty of traditional Hutsul folk culture to experience. This is the best base for making a climb to the top of Mt. Hoverla.
15. Kara Dag Crimean Nature Reserve - Take a guided walk in a volcanic landscape full of bizarre lava-formed rock features such as the Golden Gate arch just off shore in the sea.
16. The Nuclear Missile Silo Museum near Pervomaysk - Take a tour through the corridors and control room of a Soviet-era Nuclear Missile base, featuring four huge decommissioned ICBM missiles.
17. Sevastopol - A major Russian naval port and a place of great controversy in Russian-Ukrainian relations, but also a beautiful seaside city of white-painted buildings and historic forts around the bay.
18. Kremenets Castle - A picturesque hilltop ruin overlooking a town of rustic houses and orthodox churches. An ideal place to experience small-town life in Ukraine.
19. Balaklava - A beautiful coastal town overlooked by a 15th-century Genoese fortress on a hilltop. You can tour a Soviet-era submarine base built inside a sea cave.
20. Vylkovo - The so-called "Ukrainian Venice", a small fishing village in the Danube delta area with a series of canals originally built by Russian old-believers. The nearby Danube Delta Nature Reserve is a unique aquatic environment with plentiful bird-watching opportunities.
21. Chornobyl and Pripyat tour - A tour to the former nuclear reactor complex and the nearby town that was destroyed in the disaster. Chilling and unforgettable; you can see the reactor number 4 and the sarcophagus that now covers it, and wander the streets of Pripyat, frozen in time from the moment it was evacuated in 1986. The guide carries a Geiger counter to let you know how high the radiation levels are around you.
22. Ivano-Frankivsk - A charming city close to the Carpathian mountains with cobblestone streets and some impressive neoclassical architecture. It makes a pleasant place to stay while exploring the mountain region to the south.
23. Chernihiv - A city full of orthodox church spires in northern Ukraine with great historical significance, as it was once a major settlement of 11th-century Kyivan Rus. Today you can visit the Antoniy caves that lie beneath the Illinsky church to get a taste of what the city was once like.
24. Zhovkva - A pretty small town in Lviv region featuring several impressive orthodox churches and a monastery, as well as a synagogue and a castle. This was also the birthplace of Cossack hero Bohdan Khmelnytsky.
25. The Cossack Fort Museum in Zaporizhzhya - This was once the most important settlement of the Ukrainian Cossacks, built on an island in the Dnipro river. The site holds great importance in the development of the modern Ukrainian nation. In 1775 Russian ruler Catherine the Great had the fort destroyed, but today you can visit a replica version with several wooden churches and many traditional homes. Nearby is a museum dedicated to the history of the Cossacks.
26. Lutsk - A city in the north-west of the country with an impressive old town core of 17th-century buildings that line cobblestone streets. It's not in the same league as a city such as Lviv, but is still a beautiful and thoroughly un-touristed place to visit.
27. Kharkiv - Ukraine's second-largest city after the capital, featuring several vast public squares such as Ploshcha Svobody, one of the largest in the world. It is a major centre of learning with a large university student population, and also has an impressive art museum to visit.
28. Korolyov Cosmonaut museum in Zhytomyr - A space museum named for a local Soviet rocket engineer, with displays on the Soviet space program including a number of satellites and a Soyuz rocket.
29. Drohobych - A small town south of Lviv, with Austrian empire-era architecture and several stunning wooden orthodox churches.
30. Sofiyivka Park in Uman - A romantic landscaped park featuring a series of waterfalls, fountains and statues, built by a Polish count as a gift for his wife.
1. Lviv - A grand old central European city with charm, character and architectural splendours galore. Certainly one of the most beautiful European cities that most foreign tourists have never heard of. In addition to the jaw-droppingly lovely old town, the city features a first-rate outdoor folk architecture museum and the romantic grounds of the Lychakivske Cemetery.
2. Kiev (Kyiv) - The capital and beating heart of modern Ukraine, yet simultaneously the most historic city in the country as well. Few relics remain from ancient Kyivan Rus, but the Pecherska Lavra cave monastery strongly evokes the power of ancient orthodox traditions. A trip by candle-light down into the narrow tunnels to view the mummified bodies of monks is a spooky experience to remember. The steep and winding cobbled lane of Andriyivsky Uzviz forms an impressive backbone to the old town. Just outside the city, the Pyrohovo outdoor folk museum is one of the best in Europe, with several complete villages of historic wooden cottages, churches and farm buildings.
3. Kamyanets Podilsky - A small medieval town perched on a tall pillar of rock and encircled by a deep river canyon. A massive fortress guards the narrow strip of land that connects the town to the mainland. Looking across at the town and castle from the surrounding cliffs is spectacular; the town offers some of the most picturesque views in the country.
4. The Carpathian Mountains National Park - A superb environment for hiking, biking, and getting in touch with traditional village life. Mount Hoverla is the highest peak in Ukraine at 2061 metres, making it a very popular climb with local tourists.
5. Odesa - A hedonistic playground with great nightlife and seaside attractions, along with historical sites to match. The Potemkin steps are what many people come to see, but there's much more to the city than film history.
6. Khotyn Castle - A large fortress which stands in a grassy clearing overlooking the Dnistr river. This is probably the finest castle in Ukraine, even upstaging the one in Kamyanets Podilsky.
7. Yalta - A palm-studded beach resort playground for Russian and Ukrainian holidaymakers, with the added attractions of nearby palaces and museums. The Lividia Palace where the Yalta conference was held in 1945 is nearby, as is the impressive Swallow's Nest castle.
8. Kolomyya - A small town at the edge of the Carpathian mountains with a museum of Hutsul folk culture, and another museum shaped like a giant egg - the Pysanky Easter Egg Museum is dedicated to the traditional art of egg painting, with many thousands of different designs on display.
9. Bakhchysaray - The centre of Tatar culture in Crimea, and home to the former Khan's palace. The nearby cave city of Chufut-Kale is one of the main highlights of the region.
10. Pochayiv Monastery - A more authentically devout experience than Pechersk Monastery in Kiev, this is the place to get in touch with the Orthodox soul. The golden domes and bell tower are a stunning sight on the horizon, particularly with fresh snow on the ground in winter.
11. The Wooden Churches of Transcarpathia - In tiny hillside villages across the region of Transcarpathia sit dozens of beautiful churches constructed of wood. Many of these historic structures are in need of urgent repair, with little funding available for their upkeep. Some of the finest examples of the different building styles can be seen in the villages of Uzhok, Yasniya, Rohatyn, Danylovo and Chornoholova.
12. Chernivtsi - A major city of western Ukraine with classical architecture dating from the time of the Habsburg Austrian empire. The highlight is the University, with a bizarre mix of Moorish and Byzantine styles designed by Czech architect Josef Hlavka.
13. Sudak Castle - A 14th-century Genoese castle perched on a cliff, with great views out over the sea and the surrounding Crimean landscape.
14. Yaremcha - A Carpathian mountain resort town, with plenty of traditional Hutsul folk culture to experience. This is the best base for making a climb to the top of Mt. Hoverla.
15. Kara Dag Crimean Nature Reserve - Take a guided walk in a volcanic landscape full of bizarre lava-formed rock features such as the Golden Gate arch just off shore in the sea.
16. The Nuclear Missile Silo Museum near Pervomaysk - Take a tour through the corridors and control room of a Soviet-era Nuclear Missile base, featuring four huge decommissioned ICBM missiles.
17. Sevastopol - A major Russian naval port and a place of great controversy in Russian-Ukrainian relations, but also a beautiful seaside city of white-painted buildings and historic forts around the bay.
18. Kremenets Castle - A picturesque hilltop ruin overlooking a town of rustic houses and orthodox churches. An ideal place to experience small-town life in Ukraine.
19. Balaklava - A beautiful coastal town overlooked by a 15th-century Genoese fortress on a hilltop. You can tour a Soviet-era submarine base built inside a sea cave.
20. Vylkovo - The so-called "Ukrainian Venice", a small fishing village in the Danube delta area with a series of canals originally built by Russian old-believers. The nearby Danube Delta Nature Reserve is a unique aquatic environment with plentiful bird-watching opportunities.
21. Chornobyl and Pripyat tour - A tour to the former nuclear reactor complex and the nearby town that was destroyed in the disaster. Chilling and unforgettable; you can see the reactor number 4 and the sarcophagus that now covers it, and wander the streets of Pripyat, frozen in time from the moment it was evacuated in 1986. The guide carries a Geiger counter to let you know how high the radiation levels are around you.
22. Ivano-Frankivsk - A charming city close to the Carpathian mountains with cobblestone streets and some impressive neoclassical architecture. It makes a pleasant place to stay while exploring the mountain region to the south.
23. Chernihiv - A city full of orthodox church spires in northern Ukraine with great historical significance, as it was once a major settlement of 11th-century Kyivan Rus. Today you can visit the Antoniy caves that lie beneath the Illinsky church to get a taste of what the city was once like.
24. Zhovkva - A pretty small town in Lviv region featuring several impressive orthodox churches and a monastery, as well as a synagogue and a castle. This was also the birthplace of Cossack hero Bohdan Khmelnytsky.
25. The Cossack Fort Museum in Zaporizhzhya - This was once the most important settlement of the Ukrainian Cossacks, built on an island in the Dnipro river. The site holds great importance in the development of the modern Ukrainian nation. In 1775 Russian ruler Catherine the Great had the fort destroyed, but today you can visit a replica version with several wooden churches and many traditional homes. Nearby is a museum dedicated to the history of the Cossacks.
26. Lutsk - A city in the north-west of the country with an impressive old town core of 17th-century buildings that line cobblestone streets. It's not in the same league as a city such as Lviv, but is still a beautiful and thoroughly un-touristed place to visit.
27. Kharkiv - Ukraine's second-largest city after the capital, featuring several vast public squares such as Ploshcha Svobody, one of the largest in the world. It is a major centre of learning with a large university student population, and also has an impressive art museum to visit.
28. Korolyov Cosmonaut museum in Zhytomyr - A space museum named for a local Soviet rocket engineer, with displays on the Soviet space program including a number of satellites and a Soyuz rocket.
29. Drohobych - A small town south of Lviv, with Austrian empire-era architecture and several stunning wooden orthodox churches.
30. Sofiyivka Park in Uman - A romantic landscaped park featuring a series of waterfalls, fountains and statues, built by a Polish count as a gift for his wife.
Saturday, October 23, 2010
A Polish Top 30 - The Best Places to Visit in Poland
Poland is a country with an amazing variety of sights to see and experience, from mountain heights to seafront views, big city culture to village folk festivals, the ancient to the ultra-modern. Here are 30 destinations in Poland that I would strongly recommend to any traveller.
1. Krakow - Without question the finest historical city in the country, and the only large urban centre to escape significant damage in WW2. The old town, central square, Wawel castle and Jewish quarter of Kazimierz rank as some of the nation's greatest sights.
2. The High Tatra Mountains - An alpine range with peaks up to 2500 metres (Mt. Rysy), the Polish piece of the Tatras has an extensive network of trails and overnight huts suitable for hikers and climbers of all experience levels. Zakopane is the service hub for most visitors, while the trail to Morskie Oko is probably the most popular route to take. There are also many wonderful routes further afield to escape from the crowds.
3. Gdansk and the Tri-City Area - The historical importance of Gdansk can't be overestimated - this is where the Second World War began (Westerplatte), and the home of the Gdansk shipyards and Lech Walesa's Solidarity movement. But the city also happens to have one of the nation's most beautiful old town quarters, carefully restored following its destruction in the war.
4. Wroclaw - A wonderful old town square with a cluster of massive brick churches set on islands in the river Oder, this is a city with a special character. It actually contains the soul of two cities - at the end of World War Two, the city was resettled mainly by Poles from the city of Lviv, which had been granted to the Soviet Union.
5. Wieliczka Salt Mine - A trip down into the depths of the mine is like walking into a fairytale, with the highlight being St. Kinga's chapel, an entire church carved out of salt by the miners.
6. Torun - A beautiful old town of towers and church spires, with the added attraction of being the birthplace of the astronomer Copernicus.
7. Oswiecim (Auschwitz) - A place of deep emotions which leaves an impression on all who come to pay their respects. The hall full of thousands of suitcases, eyeglasses and other belongings confiscated from prisoners is shocking in the extreme.
8. Warsaw - The capital of the modern Poland, yet simultaneously a city with a complex historical past. The reconstructed old town and castle are must-sees, but the modern city dazzles with its galleries, shopping and buzzing nightlife.
9. Malbork Castle - A massive brick castle built by the Teutonic Knights. It is considered to be the largest Gothic castle in Europe.
10. Bialowieza National Park - A forest park along the eastern border with Belarus. The highlight for most visitors is the chance to see the European bison in the wild.
11. Poznan - One of the economic centres of the new Poland, Poznan also has a gorgeous old quarter with a main square that just begs to be photographed.
12. Bieszczady National Park - A range of mountains in the far south-east of the country, this is a great place to experience the relaxed pace of village life. Scenic hiking trails lead right up to the borders with Slovakia and Ukraine.
13. Czestochowa - Home of the Jasna Gora monastery, an important place of Pilgrimage for all Polish Catholics. They come to see the Black Madonna icon, credited with protecting the Polish nation through centuries of conflict. The painting was crowned queen of Poland in 1717.
14. Zamosc - A UNESCO-listed small town in the east of the country with renaissance-style architecture.
15. The Wooden Churches of Malopolska - Dozens of impressive wooden temples dot the countryside villages in the south-eastern region of the country. A few still hold Orthodox services, while most have been converted for Catholic use.
16. Dunajec Gorge - Jump on a wooden raft and hang on as oarsmen in traditional costume steer you down the river.
17. Lublin - A historic city of Gothic and Renaissance buildings with an old town that rewards strolling along every cobbled laneway.
18. The Masurian Lakes District - A region of outdoor pursuits such as hiking and cycling with a number of key historic sights. The city of Olsztyn is the base for most visitors, while the Wolf's Lair (Hitler's Bunker) is the main historical attraction.
19. Kazimierz Dolny - One of the most beautiful small towns in the country, drawing weekend crowds from the capital to its galleries and restaurants.
20. The Skansen in Sanok - The country's finest collection of traditional wooden folk architecture, featuring four wooden churches and dozens of folk cottages.
21. Lodz - A large city in the very centre of the country, Lodz has a modern sense of style based along Piotrkowska street, its main artery. Modern galleries and museums feature alongside some of the best pubs and nightlife in Poland.
22. Hel - An old fishing port at the tip of a long peninsula, Hel draws crowds in the summer who come to enjoy the Baltic beaches.
23. Frombork - A quiet town of rustic charms in the north of the country. It features a museum dedicated to Copernicus, who completed some of his most important theories here.
24. The Karkonosze Mountains - A low range of mountains in the south-west along the Czech border. Hiking and cycling opportunities abound in this region of forests and bizarre rock formations.
25. Lancut Castle - A large 17th-century palace in the south-east of the country.
26. The Churches of Peace in Swidnica and Jawor - Evangelical Churches constructed of wood in the 17th century. The one in Swidnica is the most impressive, with capacity for over 5000 people.
27. The Socialist-Realist Art Gallery in Kozlowka - A small but impressive collection of communist art housed in the former stables of a baroque palace.
28. Przemysl - A town of historical significance near the Ukrainian border. It also makes a good base to explore many of the wooden churches in the villages of the surrounding region.
29. Kalwaria Zebrzydowska - A mannerist architectural and landscape park with a pilgrimage Kalvaria.
30. Ksiaz Castle - A large castle south of Wroclaw which was intended to be one of Hitler's bases of operations in WW2.
1. Krakow - Without question the finest historical city in the country, and the only large urban centre to escape significant damage in WW2. The old town, central square, Wawel castle and Jewish quarter of Kazimierz rank as some of the nation's greatest sights.
2. The High Tatra Mountains - An alpine range with peaks up to 2500 metres (Mt. Rysy), the Polish piece of the Tatras has an extensive network of trails and overnight huts suitable for hikers and climbers of all experience levels. Zakopane is the service hub for most visitors, while the trail to Morskie Oko is probably the most popular route to take. There are also many wonderful routes further afield to escape from the crowds.
3. Gdansk and the Tri-City Area - The historical importance of Gdansk can't be overestimated - this is where the Second World War began (Westerplatte), and the home of the Gdansk shipyards and Lech Walesa's Solidarity movement. But the city also happens to have one of the nation's most beautiful old town quarters, carefully restored following its destruction in the war.
4. Wroclaw - A wonderful old town square with a cluster of massive brick churches set on islands in the river Oder, this is a city with a special character. It actually contains the soul of two cities - at the end of World War Two, the city was resettled mainly by Poles from the city of Lviv, which had been granted to the Soviet Union.
5. Wieliczka Salt Mine - A trip down into the depths of the mine is like walking into a fairytale, with the highlight being St. Kinga's chapel, an entire church carved out of salt by the miners.
6. Torun - A beautiful old town of towers and church spires, with the added attraction of being the birthplace of the astronomer Copernicus.
7. Oswiecim (Auschwitz) - A place of deep emotions which leaves an impression on all who come to pay their respects. The hall full of thousands of suitcases, eyeglasses and other belongings confiscated from prisoners is shocking in the extreme.
8. Warsaw - The capital of the modern Poland, yet simultaneously a city with a complex historical past. The reconstructed old town and castle are must-sees, but the modern city dazzles with its galleries, shopping and buzzing nightlife.
9. Malbork Castle - A massive brick castle built by the Teutonic Knights. It is considered to be the largest Gothic castle in Europe.
10. Bialowieza National Park - A forest park along the eastern border with Belarus. The highlight for most visitors is the chance to see the European bison in the wild.
11. Poznan - One of the economic centres of the new Poland, Poznan also has a gorgeous old quarter with a main square that just begs to be photographed.
12. Bieszczady National Park - A range of mountains in the far south-east of the country, this is a great place to experience the relaxed pace of village life. Scenic hiking trails lead right up to the borders with Slovakia and Ukraine.
13. Czestochowa - Home of the Jasna Gora monastery, an important place of Pilgrimage for all Polish Catholics. They come to see the Black Madonna icon, credited with protecting the Polish nation through centuries of conflict. The painting was crowned queen of Poland in 1717.
14. Zamosc - A UNESCO-listed small town in the east of the country with renaissance-style architecture.
15. The Wooden Churches of Malopolska - Dozens of impressive wooden temples dot the countryside villages in the south-eastern region of the country. A few still hold Orthodox services, while most have been converted for Catholic use.
16. Dunajec Gorge - Jump on a wooden raft and hang on as oarsmen in traditional costume steer you down the river.
17. Lublin - A historic city of Gothic and Renaissance buildings with an old town that rewards strolling along every cobbled laneway.
18. The Masurian Lakes District - A region of outdoor pursuits such as hiking and cycling with a number of key historic sights. The city of Olsztyn is the base for most visitors, while the Wolf's Lair (Hitler's Bunker) is the main historical attraction.
19. Kazimierz Dolny - One of the most beautiful small towns in the country, drawing weekend crowds from the capital to its galleries and restaurants.
20. The Skansen in Sanok - The country's finest collection of traditional wooden folk architecture, featuring four wooden churches and dozens of folk cottages.
21. Lodz - A large city in the very centre of the country, Lodz has a modern sense of style based along Piotrkowska street, its main artery. Modern galleries and museums feature alongside some of the best pubs and nightlife in Poland.
22. Hel - An old fishing port at the tip of a long peninsula, Hel draws crowds in the summer who come to enjoy the Baltic beaches.
23. Frombork - A quiet town of rustic charms in the north of the country. It features a museum dedicated to Copernicus, who completed some of his most important theories here.
24. The Karkonosze Mountains - A low range of mountains in the south-west along the Czech border. Hiking and cycling opportunities abound in this region of forests and bizarre rock formations.
25. Lancut Castle - A large 17th-century palace in the south-east of the country.
26. The Churches of Peace in Swidnica and Jawor - Evangelical Churches constructed of wood in the 17th century. The one in Swidnica is the most impressive, with capacity for over 5000 people.
27. The Socialist-Realist Art Gallery in Kozlowka - A small but impressive collection of communist art housed in the former stables of a baroque palace.
28. Przemysl - A town of historical significance near the Ukrainian border. It also makes a good base to explore many of the wooden churches in the villages of the surrounding region.
29. Kalwaria Zebrzydowska - A mannerist architectural and landscape park with a pilgrimage Kalvaria.
30. Ksiaz Castle - A large castle south of Wroclaw which was intended to be one of Hitler's bases of operations in WW2.
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Wednesday, April 21, 2010
The Top 15 Places to Visit in Hungary
Hungary is a nation that never fails to surprise me - I've visited the country countless times, yet it still has a strong scent of the exotic about it for me. Perhaps it's the language, which seems completely bizarre to most other Europeans (Finnish and Estonian are mutually-unintelligible cousins), or the cuisine, full of spicy, meaty creations that stand apart from the foods of neighbouring countries due to the very liberal addition of paprika. Then there are the Hungarians themselves, who often refer to their people as 'aliens' in the European ethnic tapestry. Their ancestry lies among Central Asian horsemen and nomadic warriors such as Atilla the Hun (Atilla is a common name given to boys in Hungary even today). Here are some of my favourite destinations Hungary has to offer, from the backstreets of Buda to the tranquil village life of Takos.
1. Budapest - Everything in Hungary begins and ends in this city on the Danube, a place that seems to re-invent itself every time I visit. Tour the main sites of Buda Hill, walk the riverfront by night, and be sure to visit Margaret's Island and the Communist Sculpture Park.
2. Eger - A wine lover's paradise, with copious amounts of the famous 'bull's blood' red wine available in the many wine cellars that line the sides of the Valley of the Beautiful Women. A castle that resisted the Turks sits above an old town centre full of lovely Baroque buildings, and the Bukk hills are nearby for excellent hiking.
3. Esztergom - You can see the massive Basilica on the hill from 10km away in each direction, and it doesn't disappoint when you arrive. For over 1000 years this has been the seat of the Catholic church in Hungary; the nation's first king, St. Stephen, was born here in the year 975 and he introduced christianity to his subjects following his coronation in Esztergom in the year 1000. The basilica and castle complex sit on a hill above the Danube and the old town composed of baroque and neo-classical buildings.
4. Pecs - A city in the south of the country that has a feel of the Balkans about it. A number of Turkish monuments have been preserved from the time of the occupation, and UNESCO-listed mosaic-covered early christian burial tombs feature frescoes of Adam and Eve and Daniel and the Lion from the year 350 AD.
5. Holloko - A village with UNESCO status in the Cserhat hills near the Slovak border. The village is made up entirely of traditional wooden cottages with thatched rooftops and has preserved many elements of its traditional culture. The impressive ruin of Holloko castle sits on a small hill near the village.
6. Visegrad - The site of a castle high above the river Danube along one of the river's most beautiful stretches. Excellent walking routes lead in both directions from the Citadel to view the sharp bend made by the Danube as it passes below Castle Hill.
7. Sopron - A small city on the Austrian border with an old town packed with some of the finest medieval buildings in Hungary. The Turkish armies never conquered the town, so much of the centre remains as it appeared centuries ago. In 1921 the people of Sopron had to vote on whether they wanted to become part of Austria or Hungary, and they overwhelmingly voted in favour of remaining Hungarian. This has earned Sopron the nickname 'The most loyal city'.
8. Szentendre - A small town north of Budapest with lots of art galleries and cultural attractions, as well as an excellent skansen (outdoor museum) of historic folk architecture gathered from all over Hungary.
9. Kecskemet - A major city of the Great Plain, Kecskemet offers plenty of art-nouveau architecture, apricot brandy, and day-trip access to Kiskunsag national park on the Puszta (Great Plain).
10. Szeged - The largest city on the Great Plain and a major university centre, Szeged is famed for being the source of the nation's finest paprika spice, which is used heavily in the creation of Szeged Goulash and Szeged Halaszle (spicy fish soup).
11. Gyor - A city in the Transdanubia region with a well-preserved historical centre and a number of excellent restaurants serving the national cuisine. Baross Gabor street and the surrounding cobbled lanes of the old town are a pleasant place to stroll about and to sit outside in a cafe on one of the squares. The Turks only held the city for four years before being ousted in 1598, so Hungarians refer to the city as the 'Dear Guard' which has always been able to watch over the nation's well-being.
12. Sumeg Castle - A large and impressive ruin north of Lake Balaton, which sits on a high round hill of limestone. In the town beneath the castle the Church of the Ascension contains brilliant frescoes which have given the church the nickname 'sistine chapel of the rococo'.
13. Pannonhalma - A village south of Gyor featuring the Benedictine Abbey of Pannonhalma high above on a hilltop. The abbey has been in continuous operation since the 10th century - it celebrated its millenium year in 1996, the same year it became a UNESCO listed site. The abbey is a mix of many architectural styles as a result of being rebuilt many times throughout history; during the Turkish occupation the abbey was turned into a mosque.
14. Takos - A village in the remote northeast, Takos contains the wooden Calvinist Church, which was constructed using the technique known as wattle-and-daub. The floor of the church is made of beaten earth, and above this is a ceiling beautifully painted with red and blue flowers. Next to the church is a wooden bell tower, considered one of the finest in the country. The church is called 'The Barefoot Notre Dame of Hungary' by the local villagers.
15. Koszeg - A small town near the Austrian border which is referred to as 'the nation's jewellery box' due to its collection of gothic and baroque buildings. The town's castle repelled the army of Suleiman the Magnificent in 1532, with just 50 Hungarians fending off 100000 Turkish soldiers. The town's main square, Jurisics ter, is one of the country's most beautiful.
1. Budapest - Everything in Hungary begins and ends in this city on the Danube, a place that seems to re-invent itself every time I visit. Tour the main sites of Buda Hill, walk the riverfront by night, and be sure to visit Margaret's Island and the Communist Sculpture Park.
2. Eger - A wine lover's paradise, with copious amounts of the famous 'bull's blood' red wine available in the many wine cellars that line the sides of the Valley of the Beautiful Women. A castle that resisted the Turks sits above an old town centre full of lovely Baroque buildings, and the Bukk hills are nearby for excellent hiking.
3. Esztergom - You can see the massive Basilica on the hill from 10km away in each direction, and it doesn't disappoint when you arrive. For over 1000 years this has been the seat of the Catholic church in Hungary; the nation's first king, St. Stephen, was born here in the year 975 and he introduced christianity to his subjects following his coronation in Esztergom in the year 1000. The basilica and castle complex sit on a hill above the Danube and the old town composed of baroque and neo-classical buildings.
4. Pecs - A city in the south of the country that has a feel of the Balkans about it. A number of Turkish monuments have been preserved from the time of the occupation, and UNESCO-listed mosaic-covered early christian burial tombs feature frescoes of Adam and Eve and Daniel and the Lion from the year 350 AD.
5. Holloko - A village with UNESCO status in the Cserhat hills near the Slovak border. The village is made up entirely of traditional wooden cottages with thatched rooftops and has preserved many elements of its traditional culture. The impressive ruin of Holloko castle sits on a small hill near the village.
6. Visegrad - The site of a castle high above the river Danube along one of the river's most beautiful stretches. Excellent walking routes lead in both directions from the Citadel to view the sharp bend made by the Danube as it passes below Castle Hill.
7. Sopron - A small city on the Austrian border with an old town packed with some of the finest medieval buildings in Hungary. The Turkish armies never conquered the town, so much of the centre remains as it appeared centuries ago. In 1921 the people of Sopron had to vote on whether they wanted to become part of Austria or Hungary, and they overwhelmingly voted in favour of remaining Hungarian. This has earned Sopron the nickname 'The most loyal city'.
8. Szentendre - A small town north of Budapest with lots of art galleries and cultural attractions, as well as an excellent skansen (outdoor museum) of historic folk architecture gathered from all over Hungary.
9. Kecskemet - A major city of the Great Plain, Kecskemet offers plenty of art-nouveau architecture, apricot brandy, and day-trip access to Kiskunsag national park on the Puszta (Great Plain).
10. Szeged - The largest city on the Great Plain and a major university centre, Szeged is famed for being the source of the nation's finest paprika spice, which is used heavily in the creation of Szeged Goulash and Szeged Halaszle (spicy fish soup).
11. Gyor - A city in the Transdanubia region with a well-preserved historical centre and a number of excellent restaurants serving the national cuisine. Baross Gabor street and the surrounding cobbled lanes of the old town are a pleasant place to stroll about and to sit outside in a cafe on one of the squares. The Turks only held the city for four years before being ousted in 1598, so Hungarians refer to the city as the 'Dear Guard' which has always been able to watch over the nation's well-being.
12. Sumeg Castle - A large and impressive ruin north of Lake Balaton, which sits on a high round hill of limestone. In the town beneath the castle the Church of the Ascension contains brilliant frescoes which have given the church the nickname 'sistine chapel of the rococo'.
13. Pannonhalma - A village south of Gyor featuring the Benedictine Abbey of Pannonhalma high above on a hilltop. The abbey has been in continuous operation since the 10th century - it celebrated its millenium year in 1996, the same year it became a UNESCO listed site. The abbey is a mix of many architectural styles as a result of being rebuilt many times throughout history; during the Turkish occupation the abbey was turned into a mosque.
14. Takos - A village in the remote northeast, Takos contains the wooden Calvinist Church, which was constructed using the technique known as wattle-and-daub. The floor of the church is made of beaten earth, and above this is a ceiling beautifully painted with red and blue flowers. Next to the church is a wooden bell tower, considered one of the finest in the country. The church is called 'The Barefoot Notre Dame of Hungary' by the local villagers.
15. Koszeg - A small town near the Austrian border which is referred to as 'the nation's jewellery box' due to its collection of gothic and baroque buildings. The town's castle repelled the army of Suleiman the Magnificent in 1532, with just 50 Hungarians fending off 100000 Turkish soldiers. The town's main square, Jurisics ter, is one of the country's most beautiful.
Labels:
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Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Slovakia's Most Unique and Unusual Experiences

Following the list of the top 100 places to visit in Slovakia, I thought it would be useful to add a list of some of the most unique and strange experiences it's possible to have in the country. These are in no particular order, this is just a set of some of the most unusual or typically Slovak activities.
- See a Kamzik (Chamois) among the peaks of the Tatra Mountains
- See the quirkiest examples of communist-era architecture, such as the Slovak Radio building, the Hotel Kiev basement lounge, the Mladá Garda student housing complex, and the Štefánik airport private diplomatic arrivals area (all in Bratislava)
- Visit the supposed "Centre of Europe" site in Kremnické Bane
- Sit on a WW2 Russian tank in the "Valley of Death" north of Svidník
- Go mushroom picking with a group of locals in the Low Tatras, Malá Fatra, or the Malé Karpaty mountain ranges
- See the annual folk festival in Východná
- Go to an ice hockey game in Trenčín, the country's hockey hotbed
- Jump over a campfire holding an axe
- Learn how to cook Bryndzové Halušky
- Drive or have a ride in a 1980's-era Škoda car
- Learn about the Slovak Robin Hood, the outlaw Juraj Jánošík, and stand next to his metal statue on the hill in Terchova
- Put a carp in your bathtub at Christmas time
- Carry one of the scales from a Christmas carp in your wallet to bring good fortune throughout the year
- Follow the former line of the Iron Curtain along the Morava river north of Devín, plenty of old fence posts, wire and bunker emplacements can be seen
- Visit Príkra, the smallest village in Slovakia, population 7. It's north of Svidník near the Polish border, and has an impressive wooden church.
- See and photograph the best communist-era murals found in the country's train stations
- Visit the terrific guitar museum in the far-eastern town of Sobrance
- Watch someone play a Fujara, or better yet, have a lesson and give it a try for yourself
- Attend the Festival of Ghosts and Monsters held at Bojnice Castle
- Watch or take part in the traditional custom of pig killing on a farm in Orava or Kysuce region
- Watch or take part in the high-speed hay-cutting championships (done in the traditional manner with a scythe) held in Terchová
- Learn to appreciate the fine taste of a glass of Kofola
- Hike along the Cesta Hrdinov SNP trail (National Uprising Trail of Heroes) to reach the Dukla Pass
- See an opera in the old opera house in Bratislava, or in the Košice opera house
- See a concert by local Slovak bands, I'd suggest Longital or Žive Kvety
- Hear a concert by the Slovak Philharmonic in Bratislava, world-class performances for a great price
- Hike to the peak on the border where Slovakia, Poland and Ukraine meet, north of Nová Sedlica in the far north-east corner of the country
- visit the Chatam Sofer Jewish memorial in Bratislava
- Sample some of the country's lesser-known beers, such as Martiner or Tatran
- Visit Luník IX, the Roma ghetto in a Košice suburb, to get a first-hand impression of the difficulties these people face in Slovak society
- Learn how to operate a communist-era Tatramat washing machine
- Watch a shepherd tending a flock of sheep or goats in the mountain pastures of Orava region
- See the Good Soldier Švejk statue at the train station in Humenné
- Visit the village and train station in Čierna nad Tisou, the end of the main train line on the Ukrainian border
- Wait for the bus at the Campbell's soup tin-shaped bus stop outside the Andy Warhol museum in Medzilaborce
- Visit the museum house in the village of Uhrovec where two major Slovak figures were born, L'udovit Štúr and Alexander Dubček
- See some of the collection of communist-era cars displayed by the Košice Trabant club
- Visit the Romanesque chapel in the village of Kopčany, the oldest church in the country, dating from the 9th century during the Great Moravian Empire
- Ride one of the old red-and-cream coloured Czechoslovak trams in Bratislava or Košice
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
Slovakia's 100 Best Destinations - From Skalica to Uličské Krivé and all points in between

As a long-time Slovak resident, I've been to pretty much every corner of this small nation, from Skalica to Uličské Krivé and all points in between. I've tried to include a good mix of cultural, historical and natural sights, for this country has plenty to offer in all three categories, or everything except a sea, as the Slovaks themselves like to say. This list reflects each destination's appeal to the average tourist as well as including most of my own favourites. Enjoy!
1. The High Tatra Mountains - alpine peaks with hiking and climbing opportunities that rival anything in Europe. Wildlife spotting along the trails in some of the more remote parts of the park is almost guaranteed.
2. Spiš Castle - The nation's most spectacular castle, and one of the largest in central Europe. Now a ruin, it dominates the town of Spišské Podhradie from its position on a wind-swept hilltop. Spišská Kapitula is found on the hill opposite, a complex of churches and monasteries surrounded by old stone walls that adds a counterpoint to the castle's dominance of the landscape.
3. Banská Štiavnica - A medieval mining town that has managed to retain almost all of its splendour and unique character. Beautiful pastel-coloured buildings spread across a hillside, with two castles in their midst and a hilltop pilgrimage church within view.
4. Bardejov - A perfectly-preserved Saxon town centre, with a cathedral and town hall positioned on a cobbled main square of burgher houses covered in sgraffito facades. The town's set of medieval walls, towers and fortifications is nearly complete, making for a stunning view from the nearby hills.
5. Levoča - A small town par excellence, with a perfect set of medieval fortifications and small winding cobbled lanes. The world's largest wooden altar can be seen in the town's main church.
6. Bratislava - The capital and hub of the country's modern development. The old town quarter is a maze of small streets connecting several large cobbled squares. It has the best restaurants and pubs the country has to offer, and plenty of worthwhile museums. Socialist-era architecture surrounds much of the centre, but a few buildings from this period, notably the National Radio Building, are quirky enough to warrant taking a look at. The town's castle sits on a hill above the Danube, overlooking the UFO-topped SNP bridge, known locally as Nový Most.
7. Čičmany - A small mountain village of wooden houses with a unique twist - most of the dark log homes are covered from top to bottom in white geometric folk designs based on the local patterns used in lacework and traditional costumes.
8. Vlkolínec - A UNESCO heritage-listed mountain village of wooden cottages that has remained untouched by modern development. Spending a night in a cottage here is a highly memorable experience.
9. Orava Castle - perched on a tiny blade of rock which sits high above the Orava river, this is one of the country's finest restored castles. Guided tours will take you through most of the castle's rooms, with superb views from the upper castle windows.
10. Slovenský Raj National Park-A series of steep river canyons amid the forested mountains, this is one of the most unique places for hiking in the country. A series of ladders and metal grids stuck into the cliffs allow you to hike right up the side of crashing waterfalls and through gorges that are strikingly misty and green.
11. Bojnice Castle - A fairy-tale castle in the tradition of French Loire valley castles, with an annual Ghosts and Monsters festival
12. Ždiar- A small village at the eastern end of the Tatra mountains, a perfect base for hiking trips to the nearby peaks. The village has many traditional wooden homes that are beautifully decorated, and has preserved many elements of the unique Goral mountain-peasant culture found in the region.
13. Malá Fatra National Park- Some of the best hiking outside the Tatras, with Vrátna Dolina being the most popular location.
14. Kremnica- A small town in a wooded valley dominated by a castle at its centre with a memorable tower to climb. Watch for the instructions given at the bottom of the stairs warning of the 'pretentious stairs'. The national mint is found on the leafy square that sits below the castle, while the old stone walls that encircle the square make for an impressive sight when viewed from the nearby hills.
15. Košice- The country's second city, with the most easterly Gothic Cathedral in Europe. The main square features many perfectly restored 16th to 18th century buildings, and the 'singing fountain' which plays music in time to the movement of the water jets.
16. Krásna Hôrka Castle and Andrássy Mausoleum- A restored hill-top castle with a commanding view of the countryside. The nearby mausoleum is an art-nouveau masterpiece.
17. Devín Castle- A castle perched on a cliff above the Danube river near Bratislava.
18. Pieniny National Park - An ideal place to experience rafting on a traditional wooden raft, steered by oarsmen in traditional costumes.
19. Trenčín- A pretty settlement on the Váh river with a cliff-top castle that dominates the town.
20. Spišská Kapitula - found on the hill opposite Spiš castle, a complex of churches and monasteries surrounded by old stone walls that adds a counterpoint to the castle's dominance of the landscape.
21. Čachtice Castle- A hill-top castle ruin associated with the blood-thirsty deeds of the Countess Báthory.
22. Špania Dolina- A traditional medieval mining village just north of Banská Bystrica.
23. Spišská Sobota- Nowadays a suburb of Poprad, this village square is one of the finest in the Spiš region, with many well-restored merchant houses.
24. Kežmarok- A Saxon town in the Spiš region with an impressive castle and old town, and probably the finest Evangelical wooden church in the country.
25. Slovenský Kras Caves- This series of caves near Rožňava include the bizarre Argonite cave with unusual stone formations, and a chain of caves that run under the border into Hungary.
26. Piešťany- The country's finest spa town, popular with German and Austrian visitors. A man breaking his crutch after being treated with the healing waters is the town's symbol.
27. Banská Bystrica- A large town in the hills of central Slovakia, with a memorable main square and castle. The museum of the Slovak National Uprising details the struggle to free the country from Nazi occupation during World War II.
28. Strečno Castle- A cliff-top ruin on the Váh river, east of Žilina.
29. Andy Warhol Museum in Medzilaborce- One of the strangest places in the world to find a major art gallery, with many famous works by Warhol displayed. His parents came from a small village a few kilometres from the town.
30. Zuberec- A village in Orava region, this is a great base for hikes in the western part of the Tatras and has an outdoor folk museum of wooden homes and churches.
31. Beckov Castle- A mighty ruin dominating the small village below it, this castle is also associated with the Countess Báthory, accused of many grisly deeds.
32. Terchová- A small village in the Malá Fatra mountains that is famous as the home of the 'Slovak Robin Hood' hero Juraj Jánošík. His statue sits on a hill above the town. This is a great place to see traditional Slovak music and customs, as there is a major annual folk festival and many smaller events throughout the year. This is also a god base for hiking in the Vratná valley.
33. Bardejovské Kúpele- A spa town just north of Bardejov, with an excellent folk architecture museum containing two Greek-Catholic wooden churches.
34. Demänovská Valley - South of Liptovský Mikulaš, this is a major outdoor recreation area with hiking trails, winter skiing, and several unique caves.
35. Ladomirová - One of the finest Rusyn wooden churches in the country, found north of Svidník near the Polish border.
36. Danubiana Art Gallery in Čunovo- An art gallery at the end of Slovakia, or that's how it feels as you walk out to its island location in the middle of the Danube. Showcasing the best in Slovak modern art with regularly-changing installations and many international exhibitions.
37. Poloniny National Park- An untouched corner of the country in the far north-east, this region has excellent hiking and many traditional Rusyn villages to explore.
38. Nitra- 'The Mother of Slovak towns', as it is called here, has a castle on a hill at its centre with a history that dates back to the Great Moravian Empire and the arrival of the Saints Cyril and Methodius who created the Cyrillic alphabet.
39. Červený Kameň Castle- A square-sided castle in the Small Carpathians, it has huge corner towers that protected it through many invasions.
40. Dukla Pass World War 2 monuments- This region was heavily defended by the Germans, and thousands of Russian and Czechoslovak troops died trying to capture it. Today there is a viewing tower and huge memorial to the victors, and many tanks and military vehicles lie scattered across the surrounding landscape, left where they came to rest in the fighting and restored as a part of the memorial.
41. Hervartov - A small village south of Bardejov featuring a Roman Catholic wooden church, the oldest wooden church in Slovakia.
42. Betliar- A palace that has been superbly renovated, with an extensive collection of exotic items collected from around the globe. Large gardens and parks with a man-made waterfall surround the palace.
43. Plavecký Castle- A ruin found in the Small Carpathian range which is in very good condition.
44. Hronsek - A village between Zvolen and Banská Bystrica which contains an evangelical wooden church with UNESCO heritage status.
45. Pribylina Folk Architecture Outdoor Museum- A collection of wooden homes and a stone church and manor house with the Tatra mountains as a backdrop.
46. Smolenice Castle- A restored castle in the Small Carpathians, with a tall central tower.
47. Modra- An attractive small town famous for its wine production.
48. Trnava- A walled town nick-named 'The Slovak Rome' - although the name is a bit much to live up to, the town has many beautiful churches.
49. Miroľa - a small village north of Svidník featuring a fantastic Greek-Catholic wooden church.
50. Gýmeš Castle- A castle ruin east of Nitra, with great views.
51. Dobroslava - A village north of Svidník with a superb Greek-Catholic wooden church.
52. Skalica- A town near the Czech border with a pleasant old town and central square, and a Romanesque rotunda.
53. Východná - a town in the Tatra mountain region made famous by its annual folk festival.
54. Lietava Castle- A huge castle ruin south of Žilina.
55. Žilina - A large town with an enjoyable old town square and Budatín Castle on its outskirts.
56. Ruská Bystrá - A remote Rusyn village near the Ukrainian border featuring a UNESCO-listed wooden church.
57. Zvolen- A large town in central Slovakia with a well-fortified castle and a huge town square.
58. Detva - A small town known for its folk festival and preservation of folk traditions.
59. Stará Ľubovňa Castle- A half-ruin above the town of Stará Ľubovňa with a folk architecture museum on the grassy plain below.
60. Žehra - A UNESCO-listed church with a unique onion dome and inerior frescoes, found just south of Spiš castle.
61. Trenčianske Teplice- A spa town surrounded by forested hills with a relaxed atmosphere.
62. Podbiel- A village in Orava region that has a wonderful collection of traditional wooden folk cottages.
63. Brhlovce- A village east of Levice that contains several cave houses; the locals dug their way into the cliff faces around the town for protection from invaders, and several still remain today, including one that has been turned into a museum.
64. Bodružal - A village north of Svidník with a UNESCO-listed wooden church.
65. Svidník Folk Architecture Outdoor Museum- A collection of Rusyn farm buildings and homes, with one of the region's finest wooden churches.
66. Dobšiná Ice Cave- A cave south of the Slovak Paradise National Park.
67. Prešov-A major city of eastern Slovakia, with an impressive main square and several orthodox churches.
68. Komárno- A town along the Danube river with a large ethnic Hungarian population. It has a large fortress and the European square, featuring a set of buildings in many different national European architectural styles.
69. Osturňa- A small village north of Ždiar near the Polish border with many preserved wooden folk cottages.
70. Dobrá Voda Castle- A large castle ruin in the Small Carpathians
71. Nižný Komárnik - A village north of Svidník with an unusual wooden church.
72. Martin - A town featuring the National Folk Architecture Outdoor Museum, the main branch of the National Museum, and the National Cemetery.
73. Slovak Bethlehem Wooden Diorama in Rajecká Lesná- A diorama made entirely of wood that contains moving parts in the scene.
74. Dražovce - A beautiful Romanesque church on a hilltop north of Nitra.
75. Tvrdošín - A town in Orava region with a UNESCO-listed wooden church.
76. Lednický Castle- A ruin on a steep cliff-edge near the Czech border.
77. Svätý Kríž - A village in Liptov region with an Evangelical wooden church which was moved to its present location to save it when the Liptovská Mara reservoir was constructed.
78. Humenné Folk Architecture Outdoor Museum- A collection of Rusyn houses and a wooden church.
79. Likava Castle- A large castle ruin north of Ružomberok.
80. Rusovce - a village featuring a Roman Legion Camp Museum and a bizarre palace.
81. Topoľčianske Castle- A spectacular castle ruin with a tall central tower.
82. Budmerice Palace- An impressive palace west of Trnava.
83. Pezinok - A town near Bratislava that is famous for its wine festival.
84. Slovenská Ľupča Castle- A large restored castle east of Banská Bystrica.
85. Leštiny - A village in Orava region with a UNESCO-listed Evangelical wooden church.
86. Červený Kláštor Monastery- A monastery found in Pieniny national park, one of the oldest in the country.
87. Spišský Štvrtok - A town with a Romanesque church in Spiš region.
88. Tokaj Wine Region- Found in the far east along the Hungarian border, this region produces some of the country's best wines.
89. M.R. Štefáník Monument in Brezová pod Bradlom- A stone monument on a ridge built for a defining figure in Slovak history. Štefáník was instrumental in the creation of the Czechoslovak state after World War I.
90. Uličské Krivé - A small village near the Ukrainian border with a wooden church.
91. Hronský Beňadik Monastery- A town featuring a hill-top monastery.
92. Svätý Jur- a pretty small town near Bratislava with plenty of good wine on offer.
93. Hrabová Roztoka - a village near the Ukrainian border with a wooden church and several orthodox churches.
94. Vychylovka Folk Architecture Outdoor Museum - A set of wood and stone buildings and a forest railway in Kysuce region.
95. Šomoška Castle- A ruin sitting directly on the Hungarian border south of Lučenec.
96. Frička - a village north-west of Bardejov with a large wooden church.
97. Jasov Monastery- A monastery found west of Košice in a small town.
98. Strážky Palace- A white fortress-like palace north of Kežmarok.
99. Ruský Potok - A small village near the Ukrainian border with a well-restored wooden church.
100. Podolínec- A town north of Kežmarok with traditional Spiš-style architecture.
Wednesday, February 10, 2010
The Ultimate List - Eastern Europe's Top 200 Destinations

I've thought long and hard while putting this together, thinking about what it is about a place that makes it stick firmly in my memory for years afterwards. Sometimes it's the grandness of the architecture (Lviv, Ukraine), sometimes it's the beauty and grace of the landscape that surrounds it (Kazbegi, Georgia), sometimes it's the warmth of the people or a memorable local character (Zdiar, Slovakia), and sometimes it's just the outright weirdness of the place (Hunedoara, Romania). I've organised them based on how appealing I think they are for the average tourist to experience; I've included destinations from the European half of Russia and from the Caucasus countries. Be sure to let me know if I forgot one of your favourite places!
1. Prague, Czech Republic
2. Krakow, Poland
3. Budapest, Hungary
4. St. Petersburg, Russia
5. Dubrovnik, Croatia
6. Lviv, Ukraine
7. Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina
8. Moscow, Russia
9. Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic
10. Suzdal, Russia
11. Tallinn, Estonia
12. Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina
13. Kyiv, Ukraine
14. Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria
15. Kotor, Montenegro
16. Ohrid, Macedonia
17. The High Tatra Mountains, Slovakia/Poland
18. Tbilisi, Georgia
19. Gdansk, Poland
20. Berat, Albania
21. Hvar, Croatia
22. Wroclaw, Poland
23. Riga, Latvia
24. Ljubljana, Slovenia
25. Kazbegi, Georgia
26. Brasov, Romania
27. Kamyanets Podilsky, Ukraine
28. Piran, Slovenia
29. Vilnius, Lithuania
30. Sighisoara, Romania
31. Rostov Veliky, Russia
32. Plovdiv, Bulgaria
33. Mtskheta, Georgia
34. Plitvice Lakes, Croatia
35. Telc, Czech Republic
36. Sergiev Posad, Russia
37. Rila Mountains and Monastery, Bulgaria
38. Bled, Slovenia
39. Wieliczka Salt Mine, Poland
40. Painted Monasteries of Bucovina, Romania
41. Torun, Poland
42. Spis Castle, Slovakia
43. Malbork Castle, Poland
44. Eger, Hungary
45. Karlstejn Castle, Czech Republic
46. Sibiu, Romania
47. Durmitor National Park, Montenegro
48. Warsaw, Poland
49. Novgorod, Russia
50. Trakai, Lithuania
51. Loket, Czech Republic
52. Koprivstitsa, Bulgaria
53. Curonian Spit, Lithuania/Russia
54. Mikulov, Czech Republic
55. Split, Croatia
56. Banska Stiavnica, Slovakia
57. Esztergom, Hungary
58. Gjirokastra, Albania
59. Zamosc, Poland
60. Rovinj, Croatia
61. Levoca, Slovakia
62. Korcula, Croatia
63. Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic
64. Yaroslavl, Russia
65. Bardejov, Slovakia
66. Khor Virap Monastery, Armenia
67. Zadar, Croatia
68. Wooden churches of Maramures Region, Romania
69. Kruja, Albania
70. Kizhi Island, Russia
71. Odesa, Ukraine
72. Bratislava, Slovakia
73. Olomouc, Czech Republic
74. Zagreb, Croatia
75. Kazan, Russia
76. Sofia, Bulgaria
77. Poznan, Poland
78. Jajce, Bosnia-Herzegovina
79. Yalta, Ukraine
80. Belgrade, Serbia
81. Bakhchysaray, Ukraine
82. Wooden Churches of Presov Region, Slovakia
83. Vladimir, Russia
84. Tryavna, Bulgaria
85. Geghard Monastery, Armenia
86. Fagaras Mountains, Romania
87. Pecs, Hungary
88. Gori, Georgia
89. Sigulda, Latvia
90. Kutna Hora, Czech Republic
91. Tirana, Albania
92. Garni, Armenia
93. Szentendre, Hungary
94. Plyos, Russia
95. Noravank Monastery, Armenia
96. Wooden Churches of Malopolska, Poland
97. Travnik, Bosnia-Herzegovina
98. Ceske Budejovice, Czech Republic
99. Kazimierz Dolny, Poland
100. Kosice, Slovakia
101. Biertan, Romania
102. Echmiadzin, Armenia
103. Tartu, Estonia
104. Herceg Novi, Montenegro
105. Kolomyya, Ukraine
106. Khotyn Castle, Ukraine
107. Orava Castle, Slovakia
108. Uglich, Russia
109. Porec, Croatia
110. Trebinje, Bosnia-Herzegovina
111. Krivoklat Castle, Czech Republic
112. Prejmer, Romania
113. Cicmany, Slovakia
114. Bran Castle, Romania
115. Stramberk, Czech Republic
116. Budva, Montenegro
117. Sapanta, Romania
118. Vlkolinec, Slovakia
119. Visegrad, Hungary
120. Tabor, Czech Republic
121. Haghpat Monastery, Armenia
122. Sinaia, Romania
123. Bojnice Castle, Slovakia
124. Pereslavl Zalessky, Russia
125. Slavonice, Czech Republic
126. Krasna Horka Castle, Slovakia
127. Lednice/Valtice Area, Czech Republic
128. Saaremaa Island, Estonia
129. Szeged, Hungary
130. Pula, Croatia
131. Lublin, Poland
132. Sopron, Hungary
133. Zdiar, Slovakia
134. Pernstejn Castle, Czech Republic
135. Wooden Churches of Transcarpathia Region, Ukraine
136. Bitola, Macedonia
137. Prizren, Kosovo
138. Skocjan Caves, Slovenia
139. Trencin, Slovakia
140. Litomysl, Czech Republic
141. Kostroma, Russia
142. Orheil Vechi, Moldova
143. Kremnica, Slovakia
144. Mljet Island, Croatia
145. Skopje, Macedonia
146. Yerevan, Armenia
147. Cetinje, Montenegro
148. Chernivtsi, Ukraine
149. Blagaj, Bosnia-Herzegovina
150. Brno, Czech Republic
151. Kezmarok, Slovakia
152. Bucharest, Romania
153. Pskov, Russia
154. Czestochowa, Poland
155. Lancut Castle, Poland
156. Timisoara, Romania
157. Spania Dolina, Slovakia
158. Hunedoara, Romania
159. Minsk, Belarus
160. Viscri, Romania
161. Vologda, Russia
162. Cluj-Napoca, Romania
163. Butrint, Albania
164. Lake Bohinj, Slovenia
165. Solovetsky Monastery, Russia
166. Nesebar, Bulgaria
167. Monasteries of Fruska Gora, Serbia
168. Ptuj, Slovenia
169. The Hill of Crosses near Siauliai, Lithuania
170. Nizny Novgorod, Russia
171. Arbanasi, Armenia
172. Konopiste Castle, Czech Republic
173. Ostrog Monastery, Montenegro
174. Sozopol, Bulgaria
175. Trogir, Croatia
176. Sheki, Azerbaijan
177. Rasnov Castle, Romania
178. Pannonhalma Monastery, Hungary
179. Adrspach-Teplice Rock Towns, Czech Republic
180. Shkodra, Albania
181. Ulcinj, Montenegro
182. Baku, Azerbaijan
183. Terezin, Czech Republic
184. Bogolyubovo, Russia
185. Lake Matka, Macedonia
186. Gyor, Hungary
187. Kromeriz, Czech Republic
188. Iasi, Romania
189. Brest, Belarus
190. Litomerice, Czech Republic
191. Kecskemet, Hungary
192. Betliar Chateau, Slovakia
193. Cesis, Latvia
194. Peja, Kosovo
195. Holloko, Hungary
196. Mir Castle, Belarus
197. Chisinau, Moldova
198. Bieszczady National Park, Poland
199. Kaunas, Lithuania
200. Batumi, Georgia
Thursday, January 7, 2010
Top 10 places to visit in Romania

1. The Painted Monasteries of Bucovina - Moldovita, Voronet, Humor and Sucevita are the four main monasteries, which rank among some of Europe's greatest cultural monuments. Each is painted with bright frescoes not only on the interior walls, but on the exterior walls as well. The remarkable state of preservation of these outdoor frescoes after 500 years of snow and rain is what makes them memorable - the red tones of Humor, the Blue of Voronet, the yellow of Moldovita and the green of Sucevita make each of them rather like a giant biblical colouring book. The frescoes were painted at a time when christian armies gathered to fight the invading Ottoman Turks, and these armies would stay sheltered inside the protective walls of these monasteries. To keep the bored soldiers entertained, and to keep their religious passions running high, biblical scenes and scenes from the lives of saints were painted on the outside of the churches, where they could be more easily viewed by the soldiers. Many frescoes show saints being beheaded by Turks, and one memorable panel at Moldovita shows the siege of Constantinople by the Turkish armies. The Last Judgement wall at Voronet is generally considered to be the finest of the frescoes, although in my opinion the most spectacular is the wall at Sucevita depicting the ladder to be climbed to heaven with the aid of the angels flying above and over the temptations of the many devils that lie below. The monasteries of Dragomirna and Putna are less visually impressive than the 'big four' monasteries, but are also worth visiting.
2. Sighisoara - the grandest small town in Transylvania, with the added incentive of being the birthplace of Vlad Tepes (Dracula). A hilltop medieval citadel sits at the heart of things, packed with atmospheric laneways beyond a highly impressive stone gate tower that evokes thoughts of wooden stakes and bats flying out on a moonlit night.
3. The traditional villages and wooden churches of Maramures region - simply like going back in time, this region feels a world apart even from the rest of Romania. Horses and carts are a major form of transport, and traditional costumes are still worn by many, not only the elderly. Cultural heritage isn't practised for the tourists, it is represented in daily life; villagers go out to work in the fields by hand, and continue to live much as their ancestors did, often without any modern conveniences. The region has several dominant architectural features, the first being large, decorative wooden gates in front of people's houses, meant to reflect the family's wealth and stature to those passing on the road. The second is the abundance of beautiful wooden churches with tall, shingled steeples, some dating back six hundred years.
4. The fortified Saxon churches of Transylvania - Biertan is the finest of these, with a brooding church and towers perched on the hill in the centre of the village. Viscri is also recommended; both are pretty much impossible to reach without a car - hiring a driver for the day in Sighisoara is a good option.
5. Sibiu - The most vibrant medieval old town centre in the country, and with the most highly developed cultural scene outside the capital. Much of the historic centre was given a face-lift for the year the city held the title of European City of Culture in 2007, and much of that event's dynamic energy remains. The city feels much more like central Europe than any other Romanian city.
6. The Danube Delta - a corner of the country unlike any other, with endless opportunities for wildlife watching while zipping about between villages by boat. The highlight is to visit the end of the Delta and the small town of Sulina.
7. Brasov - The most popular destination in Transylvania, and a base for visits to Bran and Rasnov castles, Peles palace in Sinaia, and the fortified churches of Prejmer and Harman. The city has a pleasingly unrestored medieval quarter, surrounded by steep forested hills to either side. The huge 'Brasov' sign on the hillside above is intended to evoke Hollywood, but they stole the idea from the Romanian city of Deva, who came up with the idea first.
8. The Merry Cemetery in Sapanta - so much more than just a cemetery, this is a place of beauty, representing a love of life through its sense of grace and gentle humour. Each of the graves is indicated with a brightly-painted blue wooden marker, each with a carved and painted picture depicting the occupation the person had, or in some cases, how they met their end - several show car crashes, and one portrays a man drinking and smoking while being pulled downwards by a demon. Other notable markers to look for include one showing a church construction worker being struck by lightning, and the grave of the original maker of many of the markers, Stan Ioan Pătraş. Each marker also has a poem below the person's picture, usually telling something about that person's life and often making a light-hearted joke about them.
9. Bucharest - worth visiting to see the massive Palace of the Parliament, which can be viewed on a jaw-dropping guided tour of the interior. Another important stop is Revolution square, the site of the mass protests that resulted in the toppling of Ceauşescu. It's also intriguing to go church-spotting in the back lanes tucked out of sight behind all the grand communist edifices lining the main boulevards.
10. Hunedoara - Contains the country's most spectacular castle, cast against a backdrop of ugly abandoned factories and steel mills. This is the perfect place to get a feel for what life must have felt like under Ceauşescu, and to gain an understanding for how that wound is slowly being healed. The castle was left to decay during socialism, as the castle's long Hungarian history didn't sit well with Ceauşescu. Now it is his factories that are slowly collapsing into rubble, and the castle is gradually being repaired and restored to its former glory.
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