tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-53791617614801146262024-03-21T15:19:56.990-04:00The Goulash Train - A Central and Eastern Europe Travel GuideGoulash Trainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07469376520091036889noreply@blogger.comBlogger139125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5379161761480114626.post-36588637532015332362019-07-28T18:37:00.000-04:002019-07-28T18:37:37.428-04:00Wooden Churches of the Carpathian Mountains # 42 - Roztoka, Ukraine
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The small village of Roztoka lies in the foothills of the Carpathians in a remote and rustic corner of Ukraine's Zakarpattya region. Located several kilometres off the main road between Volovets and Mizhhirya, the village stretches along a valley with the Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary a short climb up the embankment from the roadside. The church sits on a very steep incline with the doorway facing uphill with the bell tower directly in front and a small cemetery along the side.
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Originally constructed in the 1600's, the church has changed its appearance several times in its history. The original structure had a Boyko design with three steeples above the roof of the nave with the tallest placed in the centre. In 1759 the church was rebuilt in a Baroque style with the single square-sided tower above the entrance seen today. At some point the original porch entrance with its wooden columns were replaced with a modern enclosed verandah with glass windows.
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The interior of the church is mostly empty, since the villagers sold the iconostasis and some of the icons in 2001 and the rest of the interior fittings were moved to another more modern church in the village. As a result the wooden church is not used for regular religious services and is seldom opened. The structure of the church was in danger of collapsing in the early 2000's but efforts to stabilize the roof were successful following restoration work conducted in 2005.
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The current wooden bell tower dates from the eighteenth century, though an older structure likely stood on the same spot. Its square floor plan with two levels and an octagonal roof above is typical for the region and many of the surrounding villages have church bell towers with a similar appearance.
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Getting to Roztoka is challenging by public transport, though minibuses run several times per day between Volovets and Mizhhirya and stop at the turnoff point for the village. From the bus stop it's a walk of about three kilometres along the road up the valley to reach the church, which is hidden in a clump of trees on the left-hand side. Finding the person who keeps the keys for the church proved challenging during my visit, I was unable to see the interior despite asking several villagers.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ7by3n4IUCqLwjk88i64N5NAg2JwSV76HeMlhX_yAv1bHb0LvOj12jsePLym34DajQ0xRAKzc6KPMPXHQKIuNDFJQyTC7pAyZqrGSGUwhyphenhyphenhfV7TKpJSVYDrKyooquip5uTFNaPmNK8lSU/s1600/IMG_1520.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ7by3n4IUCqLwjk88i64N5NAg2JwSV76HeMlhX_yAv1bHb0LvOj12jsePLym34DajQ0xRAKzc6KPMPXHQKIuNDFJQyTC7pAyZqrGSGUwhyphenhyphenhfV7TKpJSVYDrKyooquip5uTFNaPmNK8lSU/s640/IMG_1520.JPG" width="640" height="480" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a></div>Goulash Trainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07469376520091036889noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5379161761480114626.post-24338447127191162452018-12-15T23:00:00.000-05:002018-12-15T23:17:15.411-05:00Wooden Churches of the Carpathian Mountains # 41 - Huklyvyi, Ukraine
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Huklyvyi is a small village located a few kilometres from the town of Volovets in a remote corner of Ukraine's Zakarpattia region. The Church of the Holy Spirit stands near the top of the village with a small stream running in front of it and forested hills behind. A crumbling wooden fence and a small grove of trees surround it and the accompanying bell tower. This is one of Zakarpattia's oldest and finest wooden churches, with beautifully proportioned contours.
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Built in the middle of the 18th century, the church represents an early phase in the development of the Boyko architectural style, before the broad adoption of the three-cupola domed design plan. The beautiful iconostasis inside dates from 1784.
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During the Communist period the church was preserved as a "Museum of Atheism," which helped to protect its iconostasis and interior fittings. In 1970 the church underwent extensive restorations, but by the 1990s the church had fallen into disrepair and some of the roof shingles had rotted to the point where rain could penetrate inside the structure. Community funds were raised to fix the roof and in 2001 work began on a new shingle roof.
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The eight-metre bell tower is tall and narrow, with a ladder providing access to an upper platform below the bells. A second bell tower once stood on the opposite side of the church, but it was torn down in the 1940s. Several old stone cross markers surround the church, most are marked with dates from the early 1800s.
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Getting to Huklyvyi by bus or marshrutka requires some advance planning with the timetables, but isn't too difficult. Buses from Uzhhorod and Mukacheve run to the nearby town of Volovec several times per day, and local marshrutkas head south quite regularly covering the 5 kilometres to the Huklyvyi bus stop. From there walk up the hill through the village about one kilometre to reach the church. The keys are theoretically kept by the family who live next door to the church, though I was unable to find anyone who could open it during my visit.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5UxqeLMeqi5mNWIuM5FQsmKGfojfZ5hlOhjduiZeSCACVRAlc5OF-1mGVPdJ6bPTtiMFLIfbFj2_7ZzX5pG1J5gd62IZznw43qhYVUE4riBMnrBNtMGvqpx-zMct_ZX5XlsEsEgls0a3a/s1600/IMG_1451.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5UxqeLMeqi5mNWIuM5FQsmKGfojfZ5hlOhjduiZeSCACVRAlc5OF-1mGVPdJ6bPTtiMFLIfbFj2_7ZzX5pG1J5gd62IZznw43qhYVUE4riBMnrBNtMGvqpx-zMct_ZX5XlsEsEgls0a3a/s640/IMG_1451.JPG" width="480" height="640" data-original-width="1200" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div>Goulash Trainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07469376520091036889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5379161761480114626.post-61580832074698863272016-07-24T09:53:00.000-04:002016-08-03T01:08:54.995-04:00The 50 Most Beautiful Old Town Squares in Central and Eastern Europe<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQIcNyKXrzlyFSjORfbpPWsnXrPF-zhGL6_NtBgZ65238f-TdY_j56S1T-uMUEEncUzDwxLIKZFUTpn0Fp7z-ceOj8IDLnY9Usr5DLilOKeebGTa5ndRvTQYmYdj9acYElawXsiDB0xcoa/s1600/Warsaw+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQIcNyKXrzlyFSjORfbpPWsnXrPF-zhGL6_NtBgZ65238f-TdY_j56S1T-uMUEEncUzDwxLIKZFUTpn0Fp7z-ceOj8IDLnY9Usr5DLilOKeebGTa5ndRvTQYmYdj9acYElawXsiDB0xcoa/s640/Warsaw+1.jpg" width="640" height="427" /></a></div>
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Although Central and Eastern Europe is a vast and diverse territory, large historical central squares are mainly found in the core region of Central Europe with a few exceptions provided further to the east such as those in Transylvania, Romania's central region. The Czech Republic and Poland have more than their fair share of old town squares and dominate many of the places on this list, though twelve countries are represented. This assessment is based entirely on the attractiveness and uniqueness of the town squares, not on the rest of the city or town, hence a beautiful tourist hotspot like Český Krumlov doesn't crack the top 30 since its small central square, while pretty, is not the town's main drawcard. How many of these have you visited? Which are your favourites, have I forgotten any? The cover photo above shows Warsaw's Castle Square.
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<b>1. Kraków, Poland -</b> This is Europe's largest medieval town square at 40,000 square metres, and certainly one of the continent's most beautiful. First established in the 13th century, the square is dominated by the famous 16th-century Renaissance Cloth Hall in its centre and overlooked by the steeples of the Gothic St. Mary's Basilica. Every hour a trumpeter plays the Hejnał from the basilica's highest tower, a tune which according to legend recalls the warning given to the city before a 13th century Mongol invasion. The Gothic Town Hall Tower on the western side of the square is all that remains of the former Old Town Hall, demolished in 1820.
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<b>2. Prague, Czech Republic -</b> A marketplace has existed on the location of the Old Town Square since at least the 11th century, and today the space is lined by imposing arcaded facades and packed with historical monuments (and tourists). The Old Town Hall's astronomical clock (Orloj) draws crowds every hour on the hour to watch the procession of the Apostles. The town hall once had an additional north and west wing which was destroyed in the late stages of World War Two and never rebuilt. The Jan Hus memorial (1915) at the upper end of the square commemorates the 500th anniversary of the death of this Czech hero.
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<b>3. Wrocław, Poland -</b> Europe's second-largest medieval town square, founded in the early 13th century. The large and decorative Gothic Old Town Hall in its centre is one of the most impressive anywhere on the continent. Much of the city formerly known as Breslau was destroyed in World War Two; Poles transferred from the eastern region of Galicia, particularly the city of Lviv, rebuilt the city and restored the square's former Baroque grandeur. In the north-west corner stands the red and green checker board-roofed St. Elisabeth's Church, while the south-west corner extends into the smaller Salt Square which is now used as a flower market.
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<b>4. Lviv, Ukraine -</b> Planned out in the 14th century, today this square forms the centre of a UNESCO world heritage site in Lviv's old town. After a fire in the 16th century destroyed most of the city, the square was rebuilt with Renaissance mansions encircling the square and elaborate fountains placed in each of the four corners. The large 19th-century Town Hall occupies the central area and features a tower with an observation platform that provides a view of the entire old town.
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<b>5. Telč, Czech Republic -</b> Sixteenth-century Baroque and Renaissance houses surround Zacharias from Hradec Square with no modern structures or imperfections to be seen. Since it is one of the most complete Renaissance town centres in Central Europe it has been declared a UNESCO world heritage site. A 17th-century Renaissance chateau sits at one end of the square, while large ponds for raising and harvesting carp surround the town.
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<b>6. Moscow, Russia -</b> Red Square is a rather different sort of public space than Central European medieval squares, but the colourful domes of St. Basil's cathedral and the imposing bulk of the red Kremlin walls and towers make this one of the world's most recognisable locations. GUM department store sits opposite the Kremlin and Lenin's tomb, while the northern end of the square is occupied by the large State Historical Museum. In the northern corner the pastel red and green Kazan Cathedral provides a colourful counterpoint to St. Basil's.
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<b>7. Gdansk, Poland -</b> The appropriately-named Long Market Square is just that, a narrow rectangle, and the colourful 17th-century Renaissance houses of wealthy merchants frame its edges. Neptune's Fountain (1617) and the tall tower of the 16th-century Old Town Hall are two of the most recognisable landmarks, while the Green Gate (which isn't actually green) forms an entrance way at the square's eastern end.
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<b>8. Slavonice, Czech Republic -</b> Slavonice actually has two historic squares which are linked together by a narrow street, the larger Peace Square and the smaller Upper Square. Both squares boast an assortment of Renaissance architectural riches, especially the Upper Square which is decorated with many rare sgraffito murals on its building facades. The grandness of the houses reflects the town's heyday as an important market town in the 14th to 16th centuries on the trading route between Prague and Vienna.
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<b>9. České Budějovice, Czech Republic -</b> Ottokar II square is one of the largest in Central Europe, ringed by well-preserved Renaissance and Baroque town houses. The 16th-century Black Tower and St. Nicholas Cathedral stand in the north-eastern corner, while the Old Town Hall with its decorative murals stands opposite in the south-west corner. The elaborate Samson Fountain occupies the central area, and in summer the square is filled with outdoor seating for the restaurants and pubs in the surrounding buildings.
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<b>10. Bardejov, Slovakia -</b> The town's medieval central square is surrounded by Renaissance and Gothic burgher houses in excellent condition, earning it protected status as a UNESCO world heritage site. The enormous 13th-century Gothic Church of St. Aegidius dominates the square, while the 16th-century Renaissance Old Town Hall stands at its centre.
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<b>11. Tábor, Czech Republic -</b> Žižka square features a large statue of the 15th-century Hussite leader Jan Žižka who used the city as a base for the movement. The streets leading to the square were intentionally designed in zigzag shapes to prevent attacking armies from quickly advancing. The 16th-century Renaissance Church of the Transfiguration of Christ on the Mount fills the north-west corner of the square, and its tall tower provides views of the entire town and the surrounding countryside.
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<b>12. Tallinn, Estonia -</b> Town Hall Square has been a gathering point for the city's residents since its establishment in the 14th century. The large Old Town Hall has stood in the square since that time, and the tall Christmas tree displayed in the square each December is a seasonal tradition which has continued since the year 1441.
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<b>13. Poznan, Poland -</b> Old Market Square was first established in the 13th century, and today boasts one of Poland's grandest buildings, the 16th-century Renaissance Old Town Hall with Mannerist decorations. Every day at noon two mechanical goats butt their heads together as part of the performance by the Town Hall's astronomical clock. Two small concrete communist-era buildings also stand in the central area, a reminder of an inept era of city planning.
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<b>14. St. Petersburg, Russia -</b> Palace Square has been the setting for numerous historical events, including the 1917 October Revolution. The Winter Palace, once the home of the Russian Czars and now housing the famous Hermitage Museum, is the most memorable feature of the square. Czar Alexander I planned the square as a monument to Russia's victory over Napoleon's forces, and the central area is dominated by the tall Alexander Column (1834). He also commissioned the grand Building of the General Staff with its triumphal archway leading southwards towards the main boulevard, Nevsky Prospekt.
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<b>15. Třeboň, Czech Republic -</b> Masaryk Square, named for the first President of Czechoslovakia, is one of the most architecturally complete medieval squares in the Czech Republic. Colourfully painted Renaissance and Baroque town houses from the 16th century provide a backdrop to the central Marian Column and the Old Town Hall.
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<b>16. Košice, Slovakia -</b> The eye-shaped central square contains numerous monuments, foremost among them the 14th-century Gothic St. Elisabeth's Cathedral. The adjoining Urban's Bell Tower, national theatre, and town houses in Gothic, Baroque, Renaissance and Art-Nouveau styles complete the eye-catching collection of buildings.
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<b>17. Brașov, Romania -</b> Council Square is dominated by the bulk of the 15th century Gothic Black Church which is visible from all parts of the old town. In the centre of the square, the bright yellow Old Council House provides a splash of colour which contrasts with the dark shades of the church. The square has been in use as a market since the 14th century and remains the hub of the city's daily hustle and bustle.
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<b>18. Warsaw, Poland -</b> Rebuilt almost completely from scratch after World War Two, today the square feels completely authentic and has earned UNESCO world heritage status as part of the old town area. The square has existed since the late 13th century when Warsaw was first founded, though today's reconstruction follows the look of the surrounding houses and buildings as they appeared in the 17th century. The famous bronze Warsaw Mermaid statue has stood in the centre of the square since 1855.
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<b>19. Kazimierz Dolny, Poland -</b> The market square has been in use since the 13th century, and today is widely considered one of the most picturesque town squares in Poland. St. John the Baptist church stands on a hill at one end of the square, while a ruined castle overlooks the town. Historic wooden town houses and Mannerist stone facades share space in the square, which has an old well with a wooden roof placed in the centre.
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<b>20. Zamość, Poland -</b> A planned 17th century town in Renaissance style with a showpiece old town hall as the main draw card in its central market square. Arcaded Renaissance burgher houses surround the town hall with facades in brightly painted pastel colours. The square was designed to be exactly 100 metres in length and width, and it is intersected by a north-south street which links it to the town's two smaller squares.
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<b>21. Bratislava, Slovakia -</b> The Old Town Square is surrounded by church towers and Baroque palaces, and the large Roland Fountain (1572) stands in the central area. The Old Town Hall dominates one side of the square, and views from its tower overlook most of the old town area. The square has been in use as a marketplace since at least the 14th century. Several quirky modern statues add character to the square, particularly the popular Napoleon statue leaning on a park bench.
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<b>22. Olomouc, Czech Republic -</b> The city has two connected main squares, the Upper Square and Lower Square. The larger Upper Square contains the UNESCO-heritage listed Holy Trinity Column, a grandiose Baroque monument from the 18th century. The 15th-century town hall occupies the central area of the Upper Square, and on its side wall you can see a fascinating Communist-era astronomical clock with proletariat workers replacing the original 15th-century saints.
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<b>23. Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina -</b> Sarajevo's old market square, known as 'Baščaršija', was originally constructed in the 15th century. Today the square is only half its original size due to a fire in the nineteenth century, yet it remains the heart of the city and is busy both day and night. The most important building in the square is the Gazi Husrev-Beg Mosque, while the centre is occupied by a well covered with a wooden structure.
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<b>24. Plzeň, Czech Republic -</b> Republic Square is dominated by the 13th century Gothic St. Bartholemew's cathedral, which has the tallest church spire in the Czech Republic. The Renaissance-era old town hall features beautiful golden murals and decorations on its facade, while the rest of the square features Baroque, Renaissance and Art-Nouveau town houses which reflect the city's historical prosperity.
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<b>25. Cheb, Czech Republic -</b> The architecture of George of Podebrady Square reflects its long history as a city inhabited by ethnic Germans; half-timbered buildings and eye-shaped windows on rooftops give it quite a different feel from other cities in Bohemia. The square has been a market area since the 13th century, and its most famous buildings, the eleven houses located in the centre, are all from the late-Gothic period.
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<b>26. Levoča, Slovakia -</b> Master Paul Square contains several important landmarks, foremost among them the 15th-century Old Town Hall and the 14th century church of St. James. The church contains a large Gothic wooden altar from the early 16th century. Beside the Old Town Hall you can see the 17th-century iron Cage of Shame, used for public punishment of criminals. The square also includes several Renaissance and Rococo mansions which are notable for the decorations on their facades.
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<b>27. Sibiu, Romania -</b> Grand Square has been the city's main market area since the 15th century, and is one of the largest squares in Romania. The most important buildings on the square are the 18th-century Baroque Brukenthal Palace and the 13th-century Council Tower. Many Renaissance and Baroque town houses with Saxon-style eye-shaped windows on their red rooftops surround the square.
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<b>28. Ljubljana, Slovenia -</b> Town Square and the adjacent Prešeren Square form part of the central public space in the city's old town district. A large statue (1905) of Slovenia's national poet France Prešeren stands near the centre of Prešeren Square, while Town Square's main features include the city's town hall and Robba Fountain. Both squares and the surrounding side streets have been a pedestrian-only area since 2007, enhancing their importance as the city's central meeting place.
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<b>29. Mikulov, Czech Republic -</b> The small central square contains many Baroque and Renaissance town houses, and an elaborate series of sgrafitto murals covers both walls of a house in the south-west corner. A monument to the Holy Trinity stands in the centre, while the Dietrichstein Sepulchre on the eastern side is a large family tomb complex with many angel statues lining its roof.
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<b>30. Riga, Latvia -</b> World War Two bombs and communist planning have left the Town Hall Square a shadow of its former self, yet the grandest building has been fully reconstructed and restored, the House of the Blackheads. Originally constructed in the 14th century, the building was rebuilt from the original architectural plans in the late 1990s.
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<b>31. Loket, Czech Republic -</b> The long, narrow market square in Loket forms part of the main route to the castle which is visible on the hill at the top of the town. The large town hall with its clock tower and numerous Baroque and Renaissance town houses surround the Marian Column and a small fountain which stand in the central area.
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<b>32. Lublin, Poland -</b> Most of the central space in Market Square is taken up by the old town hall, while the perimeter is composed of Renaissance mansions and burgher houses. Many of the rooflines have intricately carved decorations, and several facades are covered in murals. Traditional pubs and restaurants occupy many of the buildings, and in summer they move out into the square with outdoor seating areas on the cobblestones.
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<b>33. Prachatice, Czech Republic -</b> The town's Large Square has been the heart of the settlement since its founding in the 11th century. The square contains an old town hall covered in murals and the surrounding arcaded burgher houses feature several sgrafitto facades. A small fountain sits at one end of the square while the tower of the nearby Church of St. James provides an impressive focal point in the town's skyline.
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<b>34. Pelhřimov, Czech Republic -</b> Masaryk Square, named for the first President of Czechoslovakia, is a cobblestoned public space with a fine ensemble of Baroque and Renaissance buildings on its northern and western sides. Many of the arcaded houses feature decorative murals and are painted in bright pastel colours. The old town hall stands in the north-west corner while the Fountain of St. James occupies the central position in the square.
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<b>35. Český Krumlov, Czech Republic -</b> The town's small central square is not one of the top attractions in this tourist hub, though it contains Baroque and renaissance town houses with beautiful facades. The old town hall fills most of one side of the square, while a tall Marian Column stands in the central part of the space.
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<b>36. Hradec Králové, Czech Republic -</b> The city's large market square is actually triangular in shape, and is unusual in that most of it is paved and not a cobblestoned pedestrian area. The twin spires of the Gothic Cathedral of the Holy Spirit and the Renaissance White Tower dominate the western end of the square, with the Baroque Old Town Hall standing in front of them. A few parts of this square are still in need of restoration, but the many fine arcaded facades of the Baroque and Renaissance buildings make for a pleasant view from the top of the White Tower.
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<b>37. Pardubice, Czech Republic -</b> The rectangular Pernštýn Square has been the centre of the city since its founding in the 14th century. The large Renaissance town hall occupies most of the northern side of the square, while a tall Marian Column occupies the centre. From among the many beautiful Renaissance and Baroque building facades in the square, the most unique one features a large mural depicting the biblical scene where Jonah is swallowed by the whale.
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<b>38. Banská Štiavnica, Slovakia -</b> Holy Trinity Square reflects the historical prosperity of a town built with the profits from medieval silver mines, and several mine shafts still run beneath the town. A huge plague column stands in the central area, while the wealthy merchant's houses which line the square mostly date from the town's golden era in the 15th and 16th centuries. The southern end of the square is occupied by the 15th-century Church of St. Catherine, while one of the town's two castles can be seen on a hill in the distance.
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<b>39. Litoměřice, Czech Republic -</b> Peace Square is one of the oldest central squares in Bohemia, as the town was founded as early as the 10th century. The All Saints Church, Old Town Hall and the Black Eagle House are some of the finest buildings in the square, while the most unique feature is the bizarrely shaped tower above the House at the Chalice.
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<b>40. Domažlice, Czech Republic -</b> The narrow, ribbon-shaped Peace Square has existed since the 13th century. Its most unique features are the monumental entrance gate tower at the eastern end and the unusual round church tower which doubled as a medieval lookout and defensive stronghold. The Renaissance town hall and many arcaded Baroque and Renaissance houses make the square one of the most architecturally complete in Bohemia.
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<b>41. Banská Bystrica, Slovakia -</b> The long and narrow Slovak National Uprising Square is dominated by its tall cream-coloured clock tower (1552), which leans by almost half a metre at the top. An 18th-century plague column, an early 20th century Art-Nouveau fountain and a monument to World War Two Soviet soldiers all stand in the central area. The Jesuit Cathedral of St. Francis Xavier and many well-restored Renaissance town houses complete the ensemble.
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<b>42. Spišská Sobota, Slovakia -</b> The name of 'Saturday Square' reflects the day of the week when the town's market was held in medieval times. This former village square has now been absorbed as a suburb by the city of Poprad, but it maintains its own unique atmosphere from days gone by. The Church of St. George and its large separate bell tower occupy the central area, while the perimeter is lined with Renaissance buildings with tent-shaped wooden roofs which are unique to the region.
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<b>43. Tryavna, Bulgaria -</b> Capitan Diado Nikola Square contains fine examples of 19th century Bulgarian architecture. The clock tower from 1814 stands in front of an ancient stone bridge, while slate-roofed two-storey houses covered in ivy surround the cobblestoned public space. Many restaurants offer outdoor seating in the square, an excellent spot for summer people watching.
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<b>44. Tartu, Estonia -</b> The long and narrow Town Hall Square is the central feature of the city's old town area, with the Baroque Old Town Hall placed prominently at the upper end. At the lower end of the square a building now housing an art gallery tilts by more than a third of a metre from the perpendicular. One of the square's most well-known monuments is modern, the 'Kissing Students' fountain from the 1990s.
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<b>45. Jíčin, Czech Republic -</b> Wallenstein Square, named for an early 17th-century Bohemian warlord who made the city his home base, is one of Bohemia's most beautiful public spaces. The tall Valdice Gate Tower overlooks the plague column and fountain which occupy the central area. Much of the southern side of the square is taken up by the Wallenstein Palace, still unfinished at the time of Wallenstein's death in 1634. The adjacent Church of St. James, similarly left incomplete in 1634, is still without a church spire or a cupola.
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<b>46. Nové Město nad Metují, Czech Republic -</b> Hus Square, named for the 15th century Czech leader Jan Hus, contains a well-preserved collection of 16th century Renaissance town houses. In the central area stands a Baroque Marian Column (1696) and a monument to the Holy Trinity (1767). The beautifully arcaded 16th century Old Town Hall shares space on the northern side with the entrance to the town's castle complex.
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<b>47. Tarnów, Poland -</b> This market square lies along the old Kraków to Lviv trading route in the historic region of Galicia. Many 16th-century Renaissance houses surround the cobblestoned area, while the highlight of the square is unquestionably the 14th-century Old Town Hall in the centre, with a tall brick tower once intended for defensive purposes.
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<b>48. Kroměříž, Czech Republic -</b> The town's Large Square may have many fine arcaded Renaissance houses and a few Art-Nouveau facades, but the Archbishop's Palace on the northern side stands out as the most significant feature. A Marian Column occupies the centre, while the Town Hall stands in the southern corner of the square.
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<b>49. Prešov, Slovakia -</b> Several ornately decorated Baroque and Rococo merchants' houses line the sides of this eye-shaped square which is dominated by its 16th-century Cathedral of Saint Nicholas. Nearly all of the building facades have been fully restored and repainted, and most of the square has been pedestrianized, though Main Street fills the eastern side with a steady flow of traffic and buses. A park area with large trees occupies the lower end of the square, featuring a monument to World War Two Soviet soldiers and Neptune's Fountain.
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<b>50. Opole, Poland -</b> The town's Market Square contains a well-preserved set of Baroque and Renaissance houses, while a large and unusual 19th-century town hall with Italianate design features is placed in the centre. The town hall's tower is considered an attempt to replicate the style of the medieval town hall tower in Florence.
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Goulash Trainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07469376520091036889noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5379161761480114626.post-3912267585428681982016-06-07T03:35:00.000-04:002016-07-28T07:42:13.643-04:00The Top 12 Most Beautiful Towns and Villages in Slovakia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2b9AznqiCbRwusyy57seR2Mh2xzWs4BSsdDvMzZrLAjLQJklbeqLg8vUbwyly0XKDDss5K2j7MQeOhkgYmmAMcL4Ye8cQ3XWMNNiDT9A6V4xZdC5w8bkW5FTqT8NhRRrm7gsjhYQki6e_/s1600/Geoff+Spring+2010+571.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2b9AznqiCbRwusyy57seR2Mh2xzWs4BSsdDvMzZrLAjLQJklbeqLg8vUbwyly0XKDDss5K2j7MQeOhkgYmmAMcL4Ye8cQ3XWMNNiDT9A6V4xZdC5w8bkW5FTqT8NhRRrm7gsjhYQki6e_/s640/Geoff+Spring+2010+571.jpg" /></a></div>
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Slovakia is renowned for its mountain scenery, national parks and abundance of castles, yet there a number of attractive historic towns which deserve just as much attention from visitors. Banská Štiavnica, Bardejov and Levoča have all received UNESCO world heritage status for their unique and well-preserved buildings and town squares, while the mountain folk village of Vlkolínec has also been given UNESCO status. Most of these towns and villages are far away from the capital Bratislava and require multi-day excursions to visit them, but an overnight stay in any of these towns will greatly enhance the experience of a visit to this country. Even small villages such as Čičmany offer comfortable accommodation and restaurants for tourists. All of these places can be visited by public transport, with most requiring a combination of trains and buses to reach them. As this list focuses on small towns and villages it only includes towns with less than 20,000 population, so cities with historic old town centres such as Banská Bystrica and Trenčín aren't mentioned. The picture above shows the old town cobbled square in Bardejov. Have fun exploring!
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<b>1. Banská Štiavnica -</b> A medieval mining town in a forested valley which has managed to retain almost all of its architectural beauty and unique character. Pastel-coloured buildings line the hillsides, with two castles in their midst and a bright red hilltop pilgrimage church within view. Getting there from Bratislava is easiest by bus, there are several direct buses per day taking 3 hours 25 minutes while some connections involve changing buses in Zvolen or Žiar nad Hronom. Trains take longer and require a change of trains in Hronská Dúbrava.
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<b>2. Levoča - </b>An extremely atmospheric small town enclosed by a perfect set of medieval walls, gate towers and fortifications. Winding cobbled laneways surround a large central square with 17th-century facades, while a path leads to a nearby hilltop pilgrimage church. The world's largest wooden altar can be seen in the town's church of St. James. From Bratislava, take the train to Poprad and then change to a bus in the bus terminal which is right next to the train station. The total journey takes between 4 hours 35 minutes and 5 hours 30 minutes depending on the connection.
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<b>3. Bardejov -</b> A perfectly preserved Saxon town centre, with a cathedral and town hall as the centrepieces on a cobbled square of burgher houses with sgraffito facades. The town's set of medieval walls, towers and fortifications is nearly complete, providing a stunning view from the nearby hills. Bardejov is at the opposite end of the country from Bratislava but certainly worth the trip, the far east offers a completely different atmosphere to experience. Getting there from Bratislava takes between 6 and 9 hours depending on the connection, taking the train to Poprad and then catching a bus to Bardejov is usually the fastest way.
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<b>4. Čičmany -</b> A small mountain village of wooden cottages with a very unique feature - most of the dark log homes are covered from top to bottom in white painted folk designs based on the local patterns used on lacework and traditional costumes. Two of the cottages have been converted into a museum, and walking trails in the surrounding hills offer great views of the village. Getting there from Bratislava takes about 4 hours 30 minutes, take a train to Žilina and then catch a bus to the village.
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<b>5. Vlkolínec -</b> A UNESCO heritage-listed mountain village of rustic wooden cottages that has remained untouched by modern development. One cottage functions as a museum, and displays of folk art and wood carving can usually be seen in the summer months. Spending a night in one of the traditional cottages here is a highly memorable experience. Getting there from Bratislava takes about 4 hours 15 minutes, first by train to Ružomberok and then a local bus to the village of Biely Potok, where a short trail heads up into the hills to reach Vlkolínec. It's also possible to walk to the village along a network of hiking trails from Ružomberok.
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<b>6. Kremnica -</b> This small town lies on the slopes of a wooded valley, dominated by the fortified church and tower at its centre. The national mint is found on the leafy square that sits below the church, while the old stone walls and gate towers that encircle the town centre are an impressive sight when viewed from the nearby hills. The fastest way to travel there from Bratislava is by bus with a change of buses in Žiar nad Hronom, with the total journey taking around 3 hours and 15 minutes. Connections by train are slower, taking about 4 hours 30 minutes with a change of trains in Vrútky.
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<b>7. Špania Dolina -</b> A traditional medieval mining village just north of Banská Bystrica. A long covered stairway leads up the hill to the large fortified church, while 17th century miners cottages have been well restored. The surrounding forested hills and mountains offer great opportunities for hiking and mountain biking. The fastest way to get there from Bratislava is by bus with a change of buses in Banská Bystrica, taking around 4 hours.
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<b>8. Kežmarok -</b> A Saxon town in the Spiš region with an impressive castle and historic centre, including the most beautiful Evangelical wooden church in the country. The best way to get there from Bratislava is by train to Poprad and then either by train or bus depending on the connection, with the total journey time taking about 5 hours and 15 minutes.
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<b>9. Podbiel -</b> A small village in Orava region that has a wonderful collection of traditional wooden folk cottages. Many of the cottages are available for visitors to rent, and an ethnography museum displays local folklore artifacts and costumes. The most convenient way to get there from Bratislava is by train with a change of trains in Kraľovany, the total journey takes about 4 hours and 50 minutes.
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<b>10. Spišská Sobota -</b> Nowadays an outer suburb of Poprad, this historic town square is one of the finest in the Spiš region, with many well-restored 17th century merchant houses. Several of the houses offer tourist accommodation, while others have been turned into restaurants. Trains from Bratislava to Poprad take between 4 hours and 4 hours 40 minutes depending on the type of train. Spišská Sobota is in the north-eastern district of Poprad, a 15 to 20 minute walk from the main train station.
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<b>11. Skalica -</b> A town near the Czech border with a historic old town and central square. Remnants of the old town walls and gate towers still remain, and the town's highlight is a perfectly preserved Romanesque rotunda from the 12th century. The art nouveau-style house of culture from 1905 is another unique part of the architectural ensemble. Skalica is the only town on this list that can reasonably be considered a day trip from Bratislava; trains take 1 hour and 50 minutes with a change of trains required in Kúty.
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<b>12. Stratená -</b> A small village set in stunning mountain scenery at the edge of the Slovak Paradise national park. Trails into the park begin just steps from the village and the Dobšiná ice cave is nearby, so the village makes a good base to explore the southern part of the national park for a few days. The easiest way to get there from Bratislava is by train to Poprad and then by bus (around 5 hours 45 minutes), though there are also connections by train via Banská Bystrica.
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The city of Vilnius is the biggest draw in Lithuania for most foreign tourist visitors, and the many charms of its old town centre will keep travellers occupied for at least a few days. However, on a visit to Vilnius be sure to get beyond the capital to see what daily life in rural Lithuania is all about. All of these destinations (except Dieveniškės Appendix) can be reached in less than two hours of travel from Vilnius using public transport (trains and buses).
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<b>1.</b> <b>Trakai Castle</b> - An easy day trip from the capital by bus or train, Trakai is a small town with an extremely picturesque Gothic castle on an island in the middle of a lake. Inside the castle you can see the Trakai Historical Museum with displays on the long history of the town and its two castles (the second castle is a ruin). Buses from Vilnius run at least every half an hour and the journey takes between 30 and 45 minutes depending on the bus route. Trains from Vilnius run about every two hours through the day, with the journey taking 35 minutes.
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<b>2.</b> <b>Kaunas</b> - Lithuania's second city has many 16th-century buildings in the narrow laneways surrounding its spacious central square, while the numerous museums are also worth a peek. For those who like unusual attractions there's the quirky Devil museum, with thousands of different devil statues from around the world, and the Museum for the Blind, where visitors walk through in pitch darkness guiding their way by touch, sound and smell. Buses from Vilnius run very frequently, about every 15 minutes, and the journey to Kaunas takes approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes. Trains also run regularly from Vilnius taking about 1 hour and 15 minutes.
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<b>3.</b> <b>Grūto Parkas Soviet Sculpture Park</b> - This outdoor museum near Druskininkai, sometimes informally called Stalin World, boasts a collection of Soviet-era statues and monuments of Lenin, Stalin and other Communist leaders which once stood in public squares throughout the country. Buses from Vilnius run approximately every hour through the day to Druskininkai, with the journey taking 2 hours. The park is actually in the village of Grūta, north-east of Druskininkai on the road to Vilnius, so ask the driver to let you out in Grūta, 1 hour and 55 minutes from Vilnius.
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<b>4.</b> <b>Aukštaitija National Park and Palūšė village</b> - This national park in the north-east of the country has many small villages with well-preserved folk culture traditions. The oldest and most beautiful wooden church in Lithuania is in Palūšė, overlooking Lake Lušiai. Palūšė is also the location of the national park headquarters and information centre. Buses from Vilnius run every hour to Ignalina (1 hour and 50 minutes journey time), the main town in the region, which is 4 kilometres from Palūšė. A few buses per day connect from Ignalina to Palūšė, though it is also possible to walk there around the edge of Lake Gavys. Trains from Vilnius also run to Ignalina several times daily, taking approximately 1 hour 40 minutes.
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<b>5.</b> <b>Rumšiškės Outdoor Museum</b> - This open-air ethnographic museum near Kaunas displays an extensive collection of historic cottages, farm buildings, churches and windmills gathered from across Lithuania. Buses from Vilnius travel to the village of Rumšiškės about once an hour through the day, with the journey taking 1 hour and 10 minutes.
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<b>6.</b> <b>Kernavė</b> - This UNESCO-listed archeological site north-west of Vilnius includes historic castle mounds and the remains of a medieval town from the time when Kernavė was the capital of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. The extensive historical museum displays many of the artifacts uncovered so far. Buses from Vilnius to the village of Kernavė take approximately 1 hour.
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<b>7.</b> <b>Paneriai Memorial</b> - This site located in an outer suburb of Vilnius was the location of the Ponary massacre, where up to 100,000 people, mostly Jews, were killed by the Nazis in World War II. There are monuments to the Jewish and Polish victims, as well as a museum. City buses from central Vilnius run frequently to Paneriai, taking about 25 minutes.
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<b>8.</b> <b>Dzūkija National Park and Zervynos ethnographic village</b> - This national park in the south of the country is a region of pine forests and marshes, with several historic villages which maintain traditional cultural practices. Zervynos is a protected ethnographic village which is essentially unchanged from its 18th-century appearance and is one of the best places in the country to experience traditional rural ways of life. Trains from Vilnius go directly to Zervynos village several times daily, taking 1 hour and 50 minutes. Buses and trains run to Marcinkonys, the main town in the national park, both taking about 2 hours.
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<b>9.</b> <b>Dieveniškės Appendix</b> - This small region south of Vilnius is almost entirely surrounded by Belarus, a frontier which is fenced and carefully guarded as an external border of the European Union. Lithuanians like to jokingly describe why they think the region exists - while deciding where to place the borders between Soviet republics Stalin placed his pipe down on a map; none of his subordinates was brave enough to move it so they carefully drew an improbable border line that went safely around the pipe. For tourists the attraction lies in visiting a region which feels lost in time compared to most other regions in Lithuania, a place where traditional rural life and cultural practices still hold sway. Unfortunately there is no public transport directly to Dieveniškės, the closest place reachable by bus from Vilnius is Šalčininkai, 25 kilometres to the west (approximately 1 hour from Vilnius).
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<b>10.</b> <b>Geographic Centre of Europe monument</b> - This large monument north of Vilnius isn't the only Centre of Europe monument (at least seven other European countries claim to have the geographic centre and five have built monuments) but it is one of the largest. Calculating the centre of Europe requires deciding where the external borders of Europe are first, and there is no agreement on exactly which outer islands should be included and just where the line separating Europe from Asia should be drawn, hence the opportunity for multiple countries to claim the title of being the centre. The site includes a "Centre of Europe" outdoor museum including an open-air sculpture park. The nearby village of Purnuškės has capitalized on its geographical significance with a number of local businesses using the "Centre of Europe" name, including a golf course. The monument is 20 kilometres north of Vilnius and the easiest way to get there is to take trolleybus #10 north to the stop called Zalgirio, where you can catch a bus directly to the park (look for a bus displaying "Skirgiškės" as its destination).
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For anyone planning to visit the Czech Republic, my first advice is always "see more than just Prague." The lands of Bohemia and Moravia are packed with picturesque and historic small towns and villages, many of which receive just a trickle of foreign visitors. While Český Krumlov, Karlovy Vary and Kutná Hora are now firmly on the beaten tourist path, many other towns of equal attractiveness with beautiful town squares, churches and castles sit waiting for intrepid tourists to come and discover them. Apart from a lack of awareness about these towns, the biggest challenge for travellers is often understanding how to use the network of trains and buses to reach places off the main transport corridors between cities. The Czech Republic has one of the world's most comprehensive systems of public transport, and even the most remote villages can be reached with a little research and planning in advance. <a href="http://jizdnirady.idnes.cz/vlakyautobusymhdvse/spojeni/">This website</a> provides a journey planner search engine which can tell you the best way to travel between two destinations by public transport (change into English in the lower right-hand corner of the page).
For those eager to explore, there are many gems to be found and experienced, and these 30 destinations are merely a sampler to get a taste of what the country has to offer (the photo above shows the central square in Slavonice). This list only includes towns with less than 50,000 population, so although cities such as Olomouc, Hradec Králové, Pardubice and České Budějovice are really worth visiting, they aren't included here as the focus is on smaller towns and villages in the countryside. Hop on a train and go and see these places for yourself!
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<b>1. Český Krumlov</b> - This small town in South Bohemia has been well and truly discovered by the tourist crowds, but don't let that put you off; an evening stroll through the river-encircled old town and castle area is simply stunning, an unmissable experience on a visit to the Czech Republic. The fastest way to get there from Prague is by bus with the company called Student Agency; the bus takes almost three hours and departs from the small bus terminal outside Anděl metro station. Book ahead in summer as the route is very popular. Travelling there by train takes longer (3 hours 30 minutes) and requires a change of trains in the city of České Budějovice.
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<b>2. Karlovy Vary</b> - The biggest of the Bohemian spa towns, Karlovy Vary's pastel and cream-coloured buildings line the sides of a deep forested river valley with a series of mineral water springs dotted throughout. The rugged surrounding landscape adds greatly to the ambiance, and a walk along the trails on the hillsides above the town provides memorable views of the town centre. Buses from Prague's central bus terminal (Florenc) take 2 hours and 15 minutes, while direct trains take 3 hours and 15 minutes.
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<b>3. Telč</b> - A perfect medieval square of arcaded buildings with brightly painted facades makes this one of the most appealing towns in the country. Its UNESCO heritage site status draws visitors, but thankfully Telč's location far from major cities and railway corridors has prevented it from becoming a mainstream tourism destination. The fastest way to get there from Prague is by bus from Florenc station with a change of buses in the city of Jihlava (almost 3 hours for the total journey).
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<b>4. Loket</b> - This small hilltop town surrounding a castle on the summit seems almost too picturesque to be real, and gives Český Krumlov some stiff competition for the title of most beautiful town in Bohemia. The town's proximity to Karlovy Vary ensures a steady flow of tourists, but it still retains a quiet atmosphere for most of the year. The fastest way to get there is by bus from Prague's Florenc station, with a change of buses in Karlovy Vary (about 3 hours for the full journey).
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<b>5. Mariánské Lázně</b> - A Bohemian spa town which draws visitors with its healing waters and grandiose 19th-century architecture. Once the playground of European royalty, today the town still retains an air of its former glamour. The most convenient way to travel there from Prague is by direct train, taking 3 hours.
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<b>6. Slavonice</b> - This small town on the Austrian border boasts an exceptional collection of sgraffito-covered facades in its two main squares. Visitors to nearby Telč should make the effort to see Slavonice as well, as the architectural style is distinctly different and equally as visually impressive. Buses from Prague's Florenc station take a little over 3 hours to reach Slavonice.
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<b>7. Mikulov</b> - This small town next to the Austrian border is spread out along a hillside with a large chateau placed at the top. Nestled among the vineyards of South Moravia, Mikulov is a fine place to experience the local wine industry. Trains from Prague take about 4 hours with a change of trains in Břeclav; since the town is closer to Vienna, Brno and Bratislava it is more easily accessed from those cities.
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<b>8. Třeboň</b> - This small town in South Bohemia has luckily retained its medieval walls and fortifications, while the charming central square is among the most architecturally intact in the country. If the town had a river and hilly surrounding landscape like Český Krumlov it would be a major tourist draw, though it does attract many Czech and German visitors. Trains from Prague take 2 hours 50 minutes with a change of trains in the town of Veselí nad Lužnicí.
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<b>9. Tábor</b> - This pretty town lies close enough to Prague to be within day trip range, yet it still draws far fewer tourists than its charming streets and squares deserve. Don't miss the Klokoty monastery just outside the town centre, and be sure to climb the tall church tower in the central square for sweeping views of the town and surrounding countryside. Direct trains from Prague take 1 hour 30 minutes.
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<b>10. Kutná Hora</b> - A medieval silver mining town which had a population equal to London in the 14th century, Kutná Hora boasts several superb monuments in its old town centre. First among them is the gothic church of St. Barbara with its triple-tented roof and interior decorations related to miners and mining. The nearby suburb of Sedlec contains an ossuary which draws hordes of visitors who gawk at the bizarre sculptures and decorations made entirely from human bones. Direct trains from Prague take 50 minutes, some require a connection in the town of Kolín.
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<b>11. Štramberk</b> - This is possibly my favourite small town in the Czech Republic, with an impressive collection of wooden cottages in the distinct Wallachian style spread across a hillside under the tall, round castle tower known as Trúba. Trains from Prague take around 3 hours 45 minutes with a change of trains required in the town of Studénka.
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<b>12. Nové Město nad Metují</b> - This small town in East Bohemia features a perfectly-preserved town square and castle, while its hilltop position affords great views over the green countryside nearby. The castle gardens are good for a wander, and hiking trails lead outwards to villages where views of the town reveal just how significant its dominant hilltop position must have been defensively when foreign invaders rode into view. Buses from Prague's Florenc station take 2 hours 30 minutes.
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<b>13. Prachatice</b> - This walled town in South Bohemia lies close to Český Krumlov, yet sees a fraction of the latter's tourist visitor numbers. Historic gate towers and several impressive sgraffito building facades are its main draw cards. Prachatice can be reached by bus from Prague's Anděl metro station in 2 hours and 45 minutes.
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<b>14. Litomyšl</b> - A small town in East Bohemia with a beautiful old town and chateau, as well as the bizarrely-painted Portmoneum. The Czech composer Bedřich Smetana was born in the local brewery and a large statue of him now stands in the main square. The most efficient way to reach Litomyšl from Prague is to take the train to the town of Česká Třebová and then catch a connecting bus from in front of the train station (2 hours 20 minutes).
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<b>15. Litoměřice</b> - This town in North Bohemia is easily visited together with the nearby former Nazi concentration camp in the fortress of Terezín. A beautiful central square and an abundance of cathedrals and churches reflects the town's former historical significance. The unusual watchtower on the roof of the town hall (shaped like a chalice) is particularly noteworthy. Buses from outside Prague's Holešovice train station take 1 hour to reach the town.
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<b>16. Znojmo</b> - A picturesque South Moravian town perched on the edge of a deep river valley, with impressive Romanesque frescoes in its old town streets. Don't miss walking down to the river and up the opposite bank for views of the hilltop church and cottages lining the steep hillside. Buses from Prague's Florenc station take 3 hours and 10 minutes.
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<b>17. Jindřichův Hradec</b> - This small town in South Bohemia is built around a massive castle complex with a series of courtyards. Don't overlook the backstreets of the old town as there are several beautiful building facades tucked away out of sight. Trains from Prague take 3 hours with a change of trains in the town of Veselí nad Lužnicí.
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<b>18. Kroměříž</b> - A pretty town in South Moravia with a large chateau and extensive landscaped gardens (keep an eye out for the wandering peacocks). Few foreign tourists make it here which is part of the attraction. Trains from Prague take 3 hours and 20 minutes with a change of trains required in Hulín, and for some connections also in Olomouc.
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<b>19. Pustevny</b> - A small settlement of colourfully decorated wooden folk cottages on a mountaintop, with excellent hiking or skiing options in the vicinity. In March 2014 the cottages were heavily damaged by fire and are being gradually rebuilt according to the original designs by early 20th-century Slovak architect Dušan Jurkovič. The village is hard to reach from Prague due to its remote mountain location, but a combination of trains and buses make access possible in about 5 hours. Trains from Prague require a transfer to a second train in Valašské Meziříčí before reaching Rožnov pod Radhoštěm where buses travel up the slopes to Pustevny at the summit.
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<b>20. Jičín</b> - A welcoming East Bohemian town with an arcaded central square and a renaissance palace. Jičín is also the closest town to the spectacular hiking trails among the rocky outcrops of Prachovské Skály. Trains from Prague take 2 hours and 15 minutes with a change of trains required in the town of Nymburk.
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<b>21. Pelhřimov</b> - This small medieval town east of Tábor has a well-preserved central square and a museum dedicated to Czech attempts to break Guinness Book world records. Be sure to climb the church tower in the central square for views of the gate towers and church steeples. Trains from Prague take 2 hours and 40 minutes with a change of trains required in Tábor.
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<b>22. Mělník</b> - This town in North Bohemia is noted for its wine production (especially white wines) as well as its castle tower which is perched high on a hill above the point where the Vltava and Labe rivers meet. Trains from Prague take 50 minutes with a change of trains required in Všetaty.
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<b>23. Holašovice</b> - This tiny village of baroque-style folk architecture in South Bohemia has gained UNESCO heritage status due to its well-preserved buildings. Holašovice is reachable from Prague in about 3 hours; take a train to České Budějovice and then a bus from the city's central bus terminal.
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<b>24. Rožmberk nad Vltavou</b> - This peaceful village near Český Krumlov features a large castle on a narrow ledge of rock above the Vltava river. Trains from Prague take 3 hours and 40 minutes to reach the village, with a change of trains required in České Budějovice and Rybník. Note that the village train station is 1.5 kilometres south of the village and involves a 20 minute walk to get there.
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<b>25. Cheb</b> - This is another much-overlooked town that receives far fewer tourists than it deserves. It lies on the German border in West Bohemia and features a beautiful old town square and side streets as well as an imposing castle complex. Direct trains from Prague take 3 hours and 15 minutes, though be sure to take the trains which travel via Plzeň as those that take the northern route through Karlovy Vary take considerably longer and offer less scenic views during the journey.
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<b>26. Domažlice</b> - A quiet town in West Bohemia featuring a long and narrow central square with a unique round church tower. Trains from Prague take 2 hours and 30 minutes (the EuroCity trains heading towards Munich).
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<b>27. Náchod</b> - A small East Bohemian town on the Polish border with a beautiful hilltop chateau. The central square below contains an unusual church with large wooden towers. Travelling to Náchod from Prague takes 2 hours and 30 minutes with a series of quick transfers required in Pardubice, Jaroměř and Starkoč.
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<b>28. Stražnice</b> - A small town in South Moravia known for its folk culture and annual folk festival. Many buildings and houses are decorated with colourful folk art designs, and a large outdoor museum at the edge of town displays dozens of historic wooden cottages and barns from the region. Trains from Prague take 4 hours and 45 minutes with a change of trains in Břeclav and Hodonín. Given how far the town is from Prague it's much easier to visit from Brno, Vienna or Bratislava.
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<b>29. Kadaň</b> - This historic walled town in North Bohemia features a central square full of 18th-century buildings and a strikingly unique town hall tower that suggests the influence of North African architectural styles. Trains from Prague take 2 hours and 40 minutes with a change of trains in the rail junction Kadaň-Prunéřov.
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<b>30. Žatec</b> - A picturesque old town in North Bohemia with a museum dedicated to the local hops industry and its important role in Czech beer production. The central square and side streets of the historic centre have been carefully renovated over the past few years and now offer a pleasant place for a stroll and sitting in the outdoor cafes. Trains from Prague's Masaryk station take around 2 hours with a change of trains required in Lužná u Rakovníka.
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Nehrovets is a small village in the Zakarpattya region of western Ukraine, close to the larger village of Kolochava and 40 kilometres north of the small city of Khust. The church stands on a low hill above the central part of the village, with tall trees making it hard to see from the road. Views of the peaks and ridges of the Carpathian mountains to the north make an impressive backdrop for the church and separate wooden bell tower.
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The church is dedicated to Saint Michael the Archangel and was built during the eighteenth century. It is constructed primarily of spruce wood. The floor plan of the church features three rooms and there are three distinct roof lines above, making it an example of the Boyko architectural style. The height of the tower and the steeple above it dominate the structure, yet the overall design retains well-balanced proportions. An inscription indicates that in 1918 the church was moved to the present location and received a new roof and tower at that time.
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The church interior contains a modern iconostasis and icons, though several historical icons from the 18th century have also been preserved. A large two-storey bell tower stands at the top of the steps leading up from the road. The bell tower has a shape which is typical for the 'Verkhovina' highlands of this region, though it is in a much better state of preservation than most others. A modern wooden church stands beside the historical one and serves as the main place of worship for the local villagers.
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Nehrovets is difficult to reach by public transport, the best option is to walk the two kilometres along the road from the neighbouring village of Kolochava which has limited bus and marshrutka connections to Khust. In the morning marshrutkas also go from Nehrovets to the nearby town of Mizhhirya. The road through the village is paved but it is not in good condition. The keeper of the church keys lives across the road from the church, though I was unable to locate them during my visit.
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjld4Tl7a56AjUY5LuL16eX441aQ19YNtBk01I82l8IeJEPtIMNQgnF8ZItKXRuOeIDC1aXLq0E4OHhfUx-i9I2OPnhm_fZEuwU818klbZgobrR12NFyoUrhxP7TTW2jS45daval9NRZ6SA/s1600/IMG_1626.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjld4Tl7a56AjUY5LuL16eX441aQ19YNtBk01I82l8IeJEPtIMNQgnF8ZItKXRuOeIDC1aXLq0E4OHhfUx-i9I2OPnhm_fZEuwU818klbZgobrR12NFyoUrhxP7TTW2jS45daval9NRZ6SA/s640/IMG_1626.JPG" /></a></div>Goulash Trainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07469376520091036889noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5379161761480114626.post-80653690663145036022015-10-19T05:04:00.001-04:002015-10-19T05:04:27.158-04:00Photo Challenge # 16 - Name This LocationIt's time for another Photo Challenge, can you name the city where you can see this leaning building? It's in the old town square in the centre of the city. Be the first to post the correct answer below!
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Goulash Trainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07469376520091036889noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5379161761480114626.post-75497410717728408112015-10-19T01:48:00.000-04:002015-10-19T01:50:06.717-04:00Wooden Churches of the Carpathian Mountains # 39 - Hrabová Roztoka, Slovakia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr3Imny5KTqyFk4RqMJmAXfKdlon-XzxW6-0fUdkvKdm5HzBEdFmkOvETFJRWDZJ9PzBe-d9Z-IP0802U9SrlpXRvkcmAaAweNddh_3hslQdvq8YpC6RaVeKTBTsht8ey80RsKGQ5vt_RS/s1600/Spring+2009+Geoff+328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr3Imny5KTqyFk4RqMJmAXfKdlon-XzxW6-0fUdkvKdm5HzBEdFmkOvETFJRWDZJ9PzBe-d9Z-IP0802U9SrlpXRvkcmAaAweNddh_3hslQdvq8YpC6RaVeKTBTsht8ey80RsKGQ5vt_RS/s640/Spring+2009+Geoff+328.jpg" /></a></div>
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This small Greek Catholic church lies on a hill above the village of Hrabová Roztoka in eastern Slovakia, just a few kilometres from the border with Ukraine. The church was built in the middle of the 18th century and dedicated to Saint Basil the Great. A sign on the rear wall of the church declares it to be a 'national cultural monument' of Slovakia (this type of metal sign is affixed to most of Slovakia's wooden churches), but interestingly a second sign declares it to be 'Ukrainian national architecture' written in the Ukrainian Cyrillic alphabet.
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The church has a simple, rustic design which is similar to the nearby church in the village of Ruská Bystrá. It follows a three-room plan with a nave, sanctuary and 'babinec' or entrance room, while above there are two towers with onion domes topped by three-barred iron crosses. In the front tower there are three bells which date from 1796. The roof and exterior walls underwent repairs and replacement of wooden tiles in the year 2000.
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The impressive iconostasis in the interior dates from 1794 and is almost as old as the church itself. A rare feature of this church among those in Slovakia is the Czar door, in place of the usual 'Tree of Jesse' doors. In the second row of the iconostasis the image of the Last Supper is in the central position, instead of the more common image of Christ. Five icons were stolen from the church in 2003; they were later recovered, but were damaged and required restoration.
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Kalná Roztoka can be reached by infrequent buses from the towns of Snina and Stakčín to the north, while the neighbouring village of Ruská Bystrá has bus services connecting it to the town of Sobrance to the south. Therefore it is possible to see both Ruská Bystrá and Kalná Roztoka in a day by walking along the forest trail between them and arriving and departing from each by bus. The church key keeper lives down the hill in the centre of the village, but they weren't at home when I visited.
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This Roman Catholic wooden church sits on a small hill at the edge of the village of Slavoňov in the East Bohemia region of the Czech Republic. The church was built in 1553 on the site of a much older structure. It was originally founded by Utraquists (a moderate branch of the Hussite movement) and dedicated to Saint Martin, but the church became Roman Catholic in 1683.
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The large bell tower within the church yard dates from the same era as the church, probably built in 1555. The lower half of the tower is made of brick and its height suggests it was also intended to have a defensive military function in the event of the village coming under attack. Three bells cast in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries hang in the tower.
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The beams of the church are made of oak, spruce and fir logs. The joints between the logs were filled in with mortar and then the exterior of the building was covered in whitewash. The interior walls and ceiling are painted with murals of plants and flowers which date from the sixteenth to eighteenth centuries. The murals were restored twice in the twentieth century.
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Getting to Slavoňov is possible by public transport since there are several buses daily from the nearby town of Nové Město nad Metují which has train and bus links to most major cities across the country. The village is just 4 kilometres east of Nové Město nad Metují so it is also possible to walk there along a forest trail. The church is open for religious services four times per week, and at other times the door into the front entrance room is left open where it is possible to get an obstructed view of the church interior.
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Goulash Trainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07469376520091036889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5379161761480114626.post-33859845029012633952015-10-12T23:40:00.000-04:002015-10-12T23:48:15.468-04:00Wooden Churches of the Carpathian Mountains # 37 - Kostryna, Ukraine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf4Wim9juZiVBBTKawDy8NTS0QbyfJ-SbIdTYqKXp_qASYz7Pg-IAU-LNGiJJHxew3gMW4HyFG77fx0zeLZC-p4MyfNA86Z4rs9Ev02wb3ThxPm9CJ_OJgX38kgSPX-PDJyqJ77bzncofs/s1600/IMG_1420.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf4Wim9juZiVBBTKawDy8NTS0QbyfJ-SbIdTYqKXp_qASYz7Pg-IAU-LNGiJJHxew3gMW4HyFG77fx0zeLZC-p4MyfNA86Z4rs9Ev02wb3ThxPm9CJ_OJgX38kgSPX-PDJyqJ77bzncofs/s640/IMG_1420.JPG" /></a></div>
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Kostryna is a small village in the north-western part of Zakarpattya region in Ukraine, close to the borders with Slovakia and Poland. The church stands at the top of a hill above the village in a clearing among the trees. New wooden steps added in 2013 lead the way up the hill from the road. The church is a fascinating example of a hybrid architectural style encompassing both Boyko and Lemko elements in its design. This is apparent in the large, dominant central tower above the nave, a feature of Boyko design, combined with the three towers descending in height from the bell tower above the entrance area, a feature of Lemko style.
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The Church of the Intercession was built in 1761 and the original structure is a fine example of Boyko design. However, the addition of a taller bell tower above the entrance area in place of the original tower converted the style of the church from Boyko to Lemko, showing the dominant influence of Lemko style in this region in the early nineteenth century. This modification likely occurred around the year 1800. The largest bell in the tower was taken and melted down as part of the war effort in the Hungarian revolution of 1848, and was later replaced with a new bell in 1899.
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According to some accounts the church originally stood in a nearby village and the people of Kostryna purchased it and moved it to its present location in 1703. The church has been lucky to survive until the present day; in the 1860s the villagers planned to replace the wooden church with a new stone church on the same site, but a lack of funds prevented this from happening. Enough money for a new stone church was finally collected by 1914, but the outbreak of World War One stopped construction, and following the war devaluation of the currency they had collected prevented construction of a stone church yet again.
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Kostryna can be reached from Uzhgorod by elektrichka (regional train) or by marshrutka (minibus). There are several buses and trains per day travelling in each direction, so making a day trip to Kostryna from Uzhgorod by public transport is possible. The minibuses are usually very full and often uncomfortable, so the train is a more pleasant way to travel there. The beautiful mountain scenery in the region is more easily seen from the windows of the train as well.
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Goulash Trainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07469376520091036889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5379161761480114626.post-23304146613443481762014-06-08T03:36:00.001-04:002014-06-08T03:36:59.103-04:00Wooden Churches of the Carpathian Mountains # 36 - Bodružal, Slovakia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghMuZzNHo-zfa2KwYiXePiKUw_wtTQqyzTvRJ1oeOYtNkwl4Q21ho4mWAnljBUhjco4kTa_1brK9WJAtIrSbVriEJn6r5glbRidrJRf7E36J8ilxgnGtfG5LY-Yua-BEPpsJSdo2xYMs0X/s1600/Spring+2009+Geoff+935.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghMuZzNHo-zfa2KwYiXePiKUw_wtTQqyzTvRJ1oeOYtNkwl4Q21ho4mWAnljBUhjco4kTa_1brK9WJAtIrSbVriEJn6r5glbRidrJRf7E36J8ilxgnGtfG5LY-Yua-BEPpsJSdo2xYMs0X/s640/Spring+2009+Geoff+935.jpg" /></a></div>
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This Greek Catholic church is found on a small hill above the village of Bodružal among the forest covered mountains in the north-eastern corner of Slovakia. The church is dedicated to Saint Nicholas and was built in 1658, making it one of the oldest churches with a Lemko design in the Carpathian region. It was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2008 together with seven other wooden churches in present-day Slovakia.
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The three-part Lemko design (narthex, nave and sanctuary) are intended to represent the holy trinity. An onion dome projects above each of the three room sections with the highest dome placed above the narthex (entrance room) which is a typical feature of the Lemko style. The tower above the entrance contains three bells, the oldest of which was cast in 1759. The iconostasis wall in the interior is entirely original, dating from the 17th century, and is one of the finest examples of icon painting in this region of the Carpathians. The church grounds are surrounded by a low wooden fence with a main wooden entrance gate with a small shingled roof.
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The church is in use at least weekly with regular services held on Sunday morning. The key keeper lives 50 metres down the road from the church and since this is a popular church with tourist visitors it's usually not a problem to find someone willing to come and open the door. They will expect an entrance fee of about two Euros per person to be paid, and donations can be left in front of the icons.
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There is no direct transportation to Bodružal, but it is an easy 15 minute walk from the village of Krajná Poľana which is on the main road between Svidník and the Polish border and there are frequent buses throughout the day from Svidník. A walking trail through the forests connects four villages with wooden churches (Bodružal, Príkra, Miroľa and Krajné Čierno) which makes a perfect day hike to experience both the villages and the surrounding countryside.
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This Greek-Catholic wooden church is dedicated to the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary and is now located in the Outdoor Folk Architecture Museum in Lublin, Poland. The church was originally constructed in 1759 in the village of Uhrynów (Uhryniv in Ukrainian) which is now part of Ukraine.
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In 1904 the church was moved further west to the village of Tarnoszyn, which today lies in Poland just a few kilometres from the Ukrainian border. Following the expulsion and resettlement of the Greek-Catholic population of the village following World War Two, the church was used for Roman Catholic services until the early 1960's. Over the following decades the church was abandoned and fell into ruin.
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In 1994 the church was purchased by the Greek Catholic parish in Lublin, and in 1997 it was transported to its present site in the Lublin Outdoor Museum. Extensive renovations were carried out between 1999 and 2001, and the interior fittings including the iconostasis were completely reconstructed.
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The church features a classic Boyko style with a three-part design (nave, narthex and sanctuary) each topped by a dome with the largest dome placed above the nave. The design of the entrance area with a porch and four pillars is very unusual and is likely not an original feature of the building plan. The lowest part of the structure reveals the original horizontal log construction while the upper portions are covered in a modern vertical timber facade. Next to the church there is a large wooden bell tower which was also transported from Tarnoszyn and includes a cone-shaped roof over the bells.
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The Lublin Outdoor Museum is located in the north-western suburbs of the city and can be easily reached by city bus from the old town. The museum is very large, you could spend most of a day seeing all of the different building styles and regions which are displayed.
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Goulash Trainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07469376520091036889noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5379161761480114626.post-84675558585278562342014-05-16T04:50:00.002-04:002014-05-16T04:50:35.976-04:00Wooden Churches of the Carpathian Mountains # 34 - Yasinya, Ukraine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixtWbKa69LXIomAdlL402EJ-AtHyzmHpFIkgzl2bYzCHvwEMwwL6RelQ7f7XnZIkJ89gXzbG1q3yWfjLDXs9fIgpa6SlZt23infFBhZbduq_2s31AMxKTEyglAOk8w1mae7iXqw6p1-9mM/s1600/IMG_1819.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixtWbKa69LXIomAdlL402EJ-AtHyzmHpFIkgzl2bYzCHvwEMwwL6RelQ7f7XnZIkJ89gXzbG1q3yWfjLDXs9fIgpa6SlZt23infFBhZbduq_2s31AMxKTEyglAOk8w1mae7iXqw6p1-9mM/s640/IMG_1819.JPG" /></a></div>
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This originally Greek Catholic wooden church sits on a small hill above the village of Yasinya and the Chorna Tysa river among the Carpathian mountains of Ukraine. The church is considered to be one of the finest examples of the Hutsul architectural style and few modern alterations have been made to the building, two factors which contributed to its selection as a UNESCO world heritage site in 2013. According to a Hutsul legend the church was built on the site where a flock of sheep miraculously survived through the winter unharmed after being left behind by a shepherd in a snowstorm.
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The Church of the Ascension was built in 1824 on the site of an older church, though some accounts suggest the current church is from the late 18th century. It is frequently referred to by locals as the 'Strukivska' church. As a perfect example of the Hutsul style it features a floor plan in the shape of a cross, a large central dome above the nave with an onion dome at the top and four much smaller onion domes at the four corners of the building. A minor addition was added to the structure of the church in 1994 when a wooden entrance room was added onto the side in the same style as the rest of the church.
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Unfortunately the interior of the church is not in its original state, and the icons and iconostasis are crudely crafted versions of the originals. The overall effect is warm and welcoming, but without a feeling of true authenticity. There are many brightly coloured icons and paintings on the upper walls and dome of the roof, which intentionally draw your eyes upwards to heaven. Since 1995 the church has been used jointly for Orthodox and Greek Catholic services.
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The broad bell tower was built in 1813, supposedly a decade before the current church, and is equally impressive as the church in terms of its architectural significance. The structure has an octagonal upper floor where the bells are kept and a lower floor shaped like a square. If you are lucky enough to find the key keeper in the house below the church you will be able to climb to the bell platform in the tower for views of the church and the village. In return for opening the church and bell tower for visitors they expect that you will make a small donation to the church and perhaps buy one of the postcards they have available.
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Yasinya is one of the easiest Hutsul villages to visit by public transport since it is directly on the main road running east to west across the Carpathian mountains in this region and many buses and marshrutkas use this route to travel between cities like Uzhgorod and Mukachevo on the western side of the mountains and Kolomiya, Ivano-Frankivsk and Chernivtsi on the eastern side. The bus and marshrutka station is in the centre of the village on the main road, and to reach the church from there you will need to walk about 1.5 kilometres south through the village and then across the river to the west on a rickety old bridge with wooden slats. From there the church is visible on the hill just to the south, though finding the way there can be confusing through the maze of narrow streets between the houses and fenced pastures.
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Goulash Trainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07469376520091036889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5379161761480114626.post-66165175116427711832014-04-21T06:10:00.000-04:002014-04-21T06:10:47.450-04:00Wooden Churches of the Carpathian Mountains # 33 - Uzhgorod, Ukraine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8W4lpDP2VU7B4MHlNuecSdF8EyWiUD-NhhrD8QfICwr8CRL_1OBBMXtDf8fAB640c77KIJ9Xn5sFQj9KDPEnctc1GPmnC1DPtX23uRXr75c4n57vedwmlgnKRK_mhd2h9UKA3o-QYJGn4/s1600/IMG_1358.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8W4lpDP2VU7B4MHlNuecSdF8EyWiUD-NhhrD8QfICwr8CRL_1OBBMXtDf8fAB640c77KIJ9Xn5sFQj9KDPEnctc1GPmnC1DPtX23uRXr75c4n57vedwmlgnKRK_mhd2h9UKA3o-QYJGn4/s640/IMG_1358.JPG" /></a></div>
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This Greek Catholic wooden church stands in the Outdoor Museum of Folk Architecture in Uzhgorod, Ukraine. The church was originally constructed in 1777 in the village of Shelestovo near the city of Mukachevo, and was dedicated to Saint Michael. In 1927 the church was moved to Mukachevo, where it was later neglected during the early Soviet period. The church was transferred to the Uzhgorod museum in the 1970's to form the centrepiece of the museum's collection of Transcarpathian folk buildings.
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The church is an outstanding example of the Lemko style of architecture, with its three onion domes arranged with the highest above the narthex (entrance area) a middle dome above the nave and the lowest dome above the sanctuary. There are only a few remaining examples of the Lemko architectural style in Ukraine, since the style is more commonly seen further west in the Carpathians in what today are Slovakia and Poland. Three Lemko churches were moved to what today is the Czech Republic while Transcarpathia was part of Czechoslovakia between the World Wars. Two other Lemko churches which are still in Ukraine have been transferred to the Outdoor Museums in the capital Kiev and in Lviv. A further example of the style is in the town of Svalyava, where the large church of St. Nicholas can be seen.
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The tall and slender 22 metre Baroque tower is one of the finest features of the church, and it is topped with a decorative cross above the onion dome. This feature is repeated with crosses featuring intricate metalwork designs found above all three of the onion domes. The square pagoda-style series of roof layers above the nave are wonderfully proportioned in conjunction with the smaller tent roof over the sanctuary. The walls of the church are made of oak beams which are fastened together with dovetail joints in each of the corners.
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The carved wooden posts which form a balcony around the entrance door and along the sides of the narthex and the nave are typical of the central Transcarpathian style where northern Lemko and Boyko elements mixed with design features seen further south in areas influenced by Romanian builders. Most of the original icons and the iconostasis wall from the original Shelestovo church have been lost, and the icons displayed in the church today as part of the Outdoor Museum were brought from the church in the village of Kolochava in the Carpathian highlands. These icons date from the 18th century.
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The Outdoor Museum of Folk Architecture is a short walk from the centre of Uzhgorod, with the main entrance lying just beyond Uzhgorod castle. Uzhgorod is located at a crossroads of different countries and Poland, Slovakia, Hungary and Romania all lie within easy reach. Buses cross the border to Košice in Slovakia several times daily. Minibuses travel south to Chop near the Hungarian border where international trains depart for Budapest. Buses and minibuses run at least every hour to the neighbouring city of Mukachevo and there are direct trains heading north to Lviv.
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Pustevny is a hilltop ensemble of gingerbread-style folk buildings in the Valašsko region of the Czech Republic close to the border with Slovakia. The surrounding Beskyd mountains are popular with hikers in the summer and skiers in the winter, and there is a chairlift in operation to carry visitors up the mountain to the village.
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The buildings were designed by Slovak architect Dušan Jurkovič and constructed together with local Moravian master builder Michal Urbánek in the 1890's, drawing upon traditional Slavic folk art and building styles of the Valašsko region and the Carpathian Mountains. The final appearance of the buidlings also incorporates elements of the Art Nouveau style which was prominent at that time. Construction began in 1897 and was completed in 1899. Jurkovič also designed several other wooden buildings with a classical Slavic folk style in the present-day Czech Republic, such as the spa buildings in Luhačovice or the covered bridge in the castle gardens in Nové Město nad Metují.
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The two most famous buildings in Pustevny are named Libušín and Maměnka, and they sit side by side together on top of the hill. Maměnka houses accommodation and has a wooden interior decorated in a similar style to the exterior, with traditional expressions and sayings painted on the walls.
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Libušín is a restaurant serving traditional Wallachian and Moravian dishes. The name of Libušín comes from the legendary Czech princess Libuše. The interior of Libušín is decorated with beautiful frescoes designed by Mikoláš Aleš based on Wallach and Slovak folk legends. Art Nouveau-style chandeliers add a further touch of elegance to the dining room.
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Another famous feature of the architectural collection at Pustevny is a small bell tower which stands near the trail head for the climb to the top of Radhošť mountain. The tower was designed by Jurkovič in the same distinctive Wallachian style as the other buildings and is a valuable example of Slavic folk art.
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Further up the hill towards the summit of Radhošť there is a stone statue of the Slavic pagan god Radegast, while at the highest point there is a wooden chapel dedicated to Saints Cyril and Methodius, the patron saints of Moravia. Several festivals and special events take place in Pustevny each year, with the Snow Sculpture competition held in January among the most popular.
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On 3 March 2014 a large fire in Pustevny caused extensive damage to the folk cottage called Libušín. The open air museum in Rožnov pod Radhoštěm declared that it was committed to rebuilding Libušín as faithfully as possible according to the original design. This project was expected to cost tens of millions of Czech Crowns and a fund for public donations was established. Benefit concerts were also held to get the funding campaign started.
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There are several ways to get to Pustevny depending on the direction you approach it from. A road up the mountain from the southern side ends with a parking area just below Pustevny, and several buses per day run to the village from the nearby town and regional tourist hub of Rožnov pod Radhoštěm. Hiking trails also lead from the eastern end of Rožnov pod Radhoštěm to the summit of Radhošť mountain and onwards to Pustevny. For those who prefer a relaxed trip to the top there is a chairlift in operation in both winter and summer which connects Pustevny with the village of Trojanovice at the base of the mountain on the north side.
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Goulash Trainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07469376520091036889noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5379161761480114626.post-13872008293062888722014-04-19T23:10:00.000-04:002014-04-23T07:14:52.407-04:00Day Trips From Lviv, Ukraine - The Top 30 Destinations<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtjOH_ZpIC8rVIft8qf9xcgq63oubALY8xD0hAwj0bPfhc4QtI1wmvFuALmEm81tTe7vzQG-1WkUQvz6NP1-y9Zxm3uVkf_9G09QDO7P85JjcTUzUpN_0SGm3OpO-mpzkZKvXm-p3_Uub8/s1600/Spring+2009+Geoff+328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtjOH_ZpIC8rVIft8qf9xcgq63oubALY8xD0hAwj0bPfhc4QtI1wmvFuALmEm81tTe7vzQG-1WkUQvz6NP1-y9Zxm3uVkf_9G09QDO7P85JjcTUzUpN_0SGm3OpO-mpzkZKvXm-p3_Uub8/s640/Spring+2009+Geoff+328.jpg" /></a></div>
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Lviv is a gorgeous city of cobbled squares and laneways to wander in for a few days. Its crumbling buildings from the days of Austro-Hungary wouldn't look out of place in Krakow or Prague, but the absence of tourists in the old Galician capital lends it an authenticity which neither of those cities can offer nowadays. Beyond the historic centre there are two more worthwhile sights in the outskirts, the Lviv Outdoor Folk Architecture Museum and the highly atmospheric Lychakiv cemetery. There are also many attractive historic towns, monasteries, castles and wooden churches within range of a day trip by public transport. Natural attractions with potential for hiking lie to the south in the forested foothills of the Carpathian mountains. This list includes the top thirty day trips to make in the surrounding countryside of Lviv region, ranked in order of their general tourist appeal. The so-called "Golden Horseshoe" route, with a name which is reminiscent of Moscow's "Golden Ring" of historic towns, includes Olesko castle, Pidhirtsi castle and Zolochiv castle, which are among the most popular day trip destinations for tour groups. All of these destinations can be reached by train, bus or marshrutka with a little effort, so go ahead and try exploring a bit further afield.
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<b>1. Pochayiv Monastery -</b> One of the finest monasteries in Ukraine, and the most important monastery of the Orthodox church in the western part of the country. It rivals the Pechersk monastery in Kyiv in size and historical significance. Since the monastery lies more than 100 kilometres east of Lviv this is a fairly long day trip by bus or marshrutka, but is certainly worth the effort to see one of the region's best attractions.
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<b>2. Zhovkva -</b> This historic town to the north of Lviv boasts a castle, a historic central square and town centre packed with centuries-old churches, and a UNESCO-listed wooden church at the edge of town. There is also another impressive wooden church to see in the neighbouring village of Stara Skvaryana. This is one of the easiest day trips from Lviv and among the most enjoyable. Arriving by marshrutka is the fastest and easiest method.
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<b>3. Olesko Castle -</b> This 14th-century hilltop castle east of Lviv forms part of the "Golden Horseshoe" sightseeing route and is one of the most visited castles in Lviv region.
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<b>4. Zolochiv Castle -</b> This 17th-century castle (though it looks more like a palace) lies 60 kilometres east of Lviv. The Chinese Palace within the castle grounds is particularly impressive.
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<b>5. Ivano-Frankivsk -</b> This city to the south of Lviv features a collection of architectural gems from its long history, including many buildings from the Austro-Hungarian period. The city's cathedral, Armenian church and unusual town hall are among the most impressive sights.
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<b>6. Lutsk -</b> This historic city to the north-east of Lviv has an old town centre with many impressive churches and cathedrals and a large castle complex.
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<b>7. Pidhirtsi Castle -</b> This 17th-century castle (though like Zolochiv castle it looks more like a palace) lies to the east of Lviv not far from Olesko castle.
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<b>8. Kremenets -</b> A hilltop castle ruin and historic centre with many Orthodox churches and a monastery are the main draws in this town to the north-east of Lviv. Many people try to combine a visit here with Pochayiv monastery, though it would be ambitious to try to see both in a day by public transport.
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<b>9. Drohobych -</b> This town south of Lviv features a clutch of Austro-Hungarian buildings, but its main attractions are its two outstanding wooden churches, including one with UNESCO heritage listing.
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<b>10. Tustan Rock Fortress -</b> A castle stronghold which was carved out of towering sandstone rock outcrops near the village of Urych, to the south of Lviv near the town of Boryslav. This is one of the best natural attractions near Lviv and offers good hiking in the surrounding forested hills.
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<b>11. Univ Monastery -</b> The only Lavra monastery of the Greek Catholic church in Ukraine. Its large white defensive walls surround a church, bell tower and ecclesiastical buildings. It lies in the village of Univ, which is 40 kilometres east of Lviv.
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<b>12. Svirzh Castle -</b> A 15th-century fortified residence which is surrounded by a series of lakes which once helped to defend it from attack. This is a relatively easy day trip since the castle lies just 35 kilometres south-east of Lviv near the town of Bibrka.
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<b>13. Krekhiv Monastery -</b> A 16th-century fortified Basilian monastery found to the north of Lviv near the town of Zhovkva.
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<b>14. Stare Selo castle -</b> The sprawling ruins of this 17th-century castle lie in Stare Selo village, less than 20 kilometres south-east of Lviv. There is also a wooden church to see in the neighbouring village of Cherepyn.
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<b>15. Dovbush Rock Fortress -</b> A fortress carved out of the tall sandstone rock outcrops near the village of Bubnyshche, lying to the south of the city of Stryi, near the town of Bolekhiv. Legends claim that this was once the hideout of the Carpathian outlaw Oleksa Dovbush.
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<b>16. Rozhirche Cave Monastery - </b> A monastery in caves carved out of the rock of a hillside. Monks dug the series of tunnels and rooms between the 13th and 16th centuries. The village of Rozhirche is south of Lviv close to the Dovbush Rock Fortress, and both can be combined into a single day trip (if travelling by car).
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<b>17. Halych -</b> This small town to the south-east of Lviv features a ruined castle, and the neighbouring village of Krylos contains an Outdoor Folk Architecture museum which includes a reconstructed wooden church among other historic farm buildings and cottages.
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<b>18. Sambir -</b> A historic small town to the south-west of Lviv near the Polish border, with several beautiful old churches.
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<b>19. Rohatyn -</b> This small town to the south-east of Lviv contains a very impressive UNESCO-listed wooden church.
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<b>20. Mount Parashka -</b> This is the highest point in the Skole Beskids National Park at 1268 metres. The trail to the top makes for a very scenic day hike through mountain meadows full of wild flowers in the summer.
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<b>21. Truskavets -</b> This picturesque spa town to the south of Lviv contains many 19th-century Austro-Hungarian buildings. The many wooden villas surround the source of fourteen mineral water springs.
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<b>22. Zymne Monastery -</b> This is a 13th-century fortified Orthodox monastery to the north of Lviv. The thick walls, battlements and towers which surround the complex once provided formidable defensive capabilities.
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<b>23. Potelych -</b> A small village with a UNESCO-listed wooden church near the Polish border to the north-west of Lviv.
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<b>24. Kuty -</b> One of the finest wooden churches in Lviv region can be seen in the small village of Kuty, just north of Olesko Castle. It was constructed in 1697.
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<b>25. Pidkamin Monastery -</b> This 17th-century fortified monastery lies east of Lviv in the village of Pidkamin. The village takes its name ('Pidkamin' means 'Below the Rock') from the huge boulder on the hilltop at the edge of the settlement.
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<b>26. Komarno -</b> An 18th-century wooden church in the Boyko style lies in this small town south of Lviv. There is also another impressive wooden church in the neighbouring village of Klitsko, 2 kilometres away from Komarno.
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<b>27. Belz -</b> A 17th-century wooden church can be seen in this town to the north-west of Lviv near the Polish border.
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<b>28. Cherche -</b> This village to the south-east of Lviv on the road towards Rohatyn contains one of the oldest wooden churches in the region.
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<b>29. Berestechko -</b> A collection of historic churches dominate this small town to the north-east from Lviv.
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<b>30. Kuhaiv -</b> A very old wooden church stands in this small village 15 kilometres south of Lviv.
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Goulash Trainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07469376520091036889noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5379161761480114626.post-45411784895724164632014-04-05T07:39:00.000-04:002014-04-06T02:04:16.193-04:00Day Trips from Lublin, Poland - The Top 5 Destinations<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ63UctXXvEY14TMAx7NICY0p0ufBdQ-Xxd-y3Z1kR3XVQ6sDz-tUXJR_kfjQBxfBFh8IZLNz0Y1wTJVwr5jeKAcJrR365fYHeFGPNRFKheaj20ZQs_7_-7YlIng49zWDdxtsyYgL-kSeg/s1600/IMG_2076.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ63UctXXvEY14TMAx7NICY0p0ufBdQ-Xxd-y3Z1kR3XVQ6sDz-tUXJR_kfjQBxfBFh8IZLNz0Y1wTJVwr5jeKAcJrR365fYHeFGPNRFKheaj20ZQs_7_-7YlIng49zWDdxtsyYgL-kSeg/s640/IMG_2076.JPG" /></a></div> <br/>
<b>Lublin</b> is a rare thing in <b>Poland</b> these days, an attractive historical city which has yet to be fully discovered by foreign tourists. The hilly cobbled streets of the old town are full of colourful building facades and outdoor cafes, while medieval gate towers and an unusual castle complex add to the picturesque skyline. On the outskirts of the city are two more tourist draws, the <b>Majdanek</b> WW2 concentration camp to the south and the outdoor folk architecture museum to the west. Both can be easily reached using local city buses. Beyond the city limits lie a number of worthwhile day trip destinations, and with many enjoyable restaurants and pubs <b>Lublin</b> makes a nice place to settle into as a base for several days. These are five of the best options for exploring outside Lublin, featuring a star rating out of five stars. The photos shown here feature, from top to bottom, Lublin, Zamość and Kazimierz Dolny. <br/> <br/>
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<b>**** Zamość</b> - This UNESCO heritage-listed town is a perfect renaissance planned settlement, with walls and fortifications surrounding narrow streets and the showpiece old town square. Buses and minibuses depart from Lublin's main bus station and take 1 hour 30 minutes to 1 hour 45 minutes. Only a few trains per day go to and from Zamość so it isn't a very convenient way to get there, and they also take longer, 2 hours 10 minutes on average. <br/> <br/>
<b>**** Kazimierz Dolny</b> - This is one of the prettiest small towns in all of Poland, with a postcard-perfect central square of stone and wood buildings. Castles and churches are placed very picturesquely on the surrounding hilltops, and there are plenty of places to get a proper Polish meal after a lengthy stroll. If you decide to stay overnight here (many people do) don't miss crossing the river to see the castle in the neighbouring village of Janowiec, it makes a nice cycling trip. Bicycles are available for rent from several different businesses in the town. Buses and minibuses run regularly from Lublin's main bus station, taking 1 hour 10 minutes. <br/> <br/>
<b>*** Kozłówka Palace and Socialist-Realist Art Gallery</b> - The baroque palace is impressive enough, but the real reason to visit is for the gallery of socialist-realist art in the former horse stables. Buses and minibuses depart from Lublin's main bus station and take between 1 hour and 1 hour 15 minutes. Some buses are direct, others will require a change of buses in the small town of Lubartów. <br/> <br/>
<b>** Chełm</b> - This town near the Ukrainian border has a hilltop basilica and a few other historical buildings of note, but the real attraction is the city's underground chalk tunnels from the middle ages. Guides will lead you through the shafts and chambers by candlelight, and you can expect some chills when the resident ghost makes an appearance. Buses and minibuses depart regularly from Lublin's main bus station and take 1 hour and 15 minutes. Trains depart Lublin main station several times daily and take 1 hour 25 minutes. <br/> <br/>
<b>** Pułavy Palace</b> - This baroque palace complex to the north-west of Lublin features rooms packed with grand furniture and fittings, and outside there are impressive landscaped gardens. Buses and minibuses from Lublin main bus station take between 50 minutes and 1 hour, and several trains go directly to Puławy daily taking 35 minutes. <br/> <br/>
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Goulash Trainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07469376520091036889noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5379161761480114626.post-7717819110351935742014-01-29T05:50:00.001-05:002014-04-06T02:11:50.607-04:00Wooden Churches of the Carpathian Mountains # 32 - Uzhok, Ukraine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxJS_5ZvspE-zRR6gdwP6v7-2TZbyEfu9hGi4FDzGZjLbW9xw4zjkNlXrBYs-IXkskcju1O1rqZLrnf2491oURI3uTmGIBgxMxGzLzOWSTjcHWq9MuQitOD5S8OPCEH_rZwU5yrmbgGQim/s1600/IMG_1961.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxJS_5ZvspE-zRR6gdwP6v7-2TZbyEfu9hGi4FDzGZjLbW9xw4zjkNlXrBYs-IXkskcju1O1rqZLrnf2491oURI3uTmGIBgxMxGzLzOWSTjcHWq9MuQitOD5S8OPCEH_rZwU5yrmbgGQim/s640/IMG_1961.JPG" /></a></div>
This small church, found in a remote corner of the Carpathian highlands of Ukraine, was declared a UNESCO world heritage site in 2013 together with fifteen other tserkvas in Ukraine and Poland. The village of Uzhok lies in the Uzhok pass, the highest pass in this part of the Carpathians and one of the most scenic locations in Transcarpathian Ukraine. The church is one of the most famous in the region and often features in tourism and other promotional materials as a symbol of Transcarpathian Ukraine.
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The church was built in the Boyko style in 1745 and dedicated to Saint Michael. Supposedly the church was originally placed higher up the slope of the hill, but it was moved down nearer to the road because it was difficult for elderly villagers to walk up the incline. The architectural proportions of this church make it one of the most perfect examples of the Boyko style of architecture. The large triple-layered roof above the nave stands above the smaller single-layered roof of the narthex and the double-layered sanctuary roof. The shape of the tower above the narthex is similar to that of churches in the Lemko style found a little further to the west in the Carpathians.
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The brightly coloured interior has had several modern additions to its fittings and decorations, but still has a pleasing appearance overall. The 18th-century iconostasis has luckily been only slightly altered from its original appearance. The elegant windows with white framing are not an original feature and were added during a later renovation. The church exterior is covered in a dark coating of oil stain to protect the wood, and this has led to the church being referred to locally as 'the little black ship'.
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Standing next to the church is a wooden bell tower, though its roof and upper walls are now covered in metal rather than wooden shingles. During World War One the government of Austro-Hungary (the state to which Uzhok belonged at that time) had the bells from the bell tower removed and melted down for military use. On the slope above the church is the village cemetery, with many older graves overgrown by grasses and trees.
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The village of Uzhok is most easily reached by train, since there are several regional trains daily from Uzhhorod which run directly there. A few trains daily also continue onwards to Lviv to the north. There are a couple of buses and marshrutkas which run to the village daily from Uzhhorod, but the timing of the trains is more convenient to make a comfortable day trip. Just before arriving at the platform for Uzhok the train crosses a spectacular rail bridge across the valley, offering excellent views in all directions.
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This small Orthodox church stands on a raised patch of ground in the centre of the village of Ruský Potok in the far northeast corner of Slovakia. The forested hills of the Poloniny National Park surround the village on three sides, and sections of the UNESCO-listed Beech Forests of the Carpathians site are also nearby.
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The church was built in 1740 and dedicated to Michael the Archangel as a Greek Catholic church. Since the year 2000 it has been used by the local Orthodox church community, though services are only held on religious holidays and special occasions.
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The church contains a three-section floor plan (narthex, nave and sanctuary) on an east-west axis which is typical of Greek Catholic churches found in this region. The church was built on a low stone foundation to enhance its durability.
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Next to the church is a small bell tower which contains three bells. The bell tower is not part of the original church plan and was built only in 1956. The three bells it contains were originally housed in the belfry in the tower above the narthex of the church. The tower features a series of small windows, which is a unique feature among the churches found in this region.
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The iconostasis in the church likely dates from the eighteenth century. Due to the narrow space available in the small nave, the icons on the far left and right are placed on the side walls at a ninety degree angle to the rest of the iconostasis. This is another very unusual feature which does not appear in any of the other churches in this region.
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The church was originally surrounded by a stone wall with two entrance gates, though at present there is a wooden fence with one entrance gate leading down towards the village square. A modern church has been built within the same grounds as the original wooden church.
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Ruský Potok is very difficult to reach by public transport, since no buses run to the village and just a few buses per day pass along the Snina - Ulič road four kilometres to the south. The road into the village from the Snina - Ulič main road is paved and fine for access by car or bicycle. There is a blue-marked hiking trail over the hills connecting the villages of Topoľa, Ruský Potok and Uličské Krivé, and since all three villages contain wooden churches this route makes a nice one day trek.
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Goulash Trainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07469376520091036889noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5379161761480114626.post-64617271810972454552013-06-14T07:29:00.000-04:002015-10-19T02:33:00.733-04:00The Top 15 Travel Destinations in Latvia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEeHNSS8LD7iDw-hTarJhDdFB4A4ZrxCouKGRNu0kOMyyO6rVb2maf-tPksVKVG5t3AFsZNk9CeeEMLLAgBsyeFwqCD8amEupEjM9sV26GYwOtgvjK-5QAohI03G6SvvvzTkkfeBC2OEw2/s1600/Riga+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEeHNSS8LD7iDw-hTarJhDdFB4A4ZrxCouKGRNu0kOMyyO6rVb2maf-tPksVKVG5t3AFsZNk9CeeEMLLAgBsyeFwqCD8amEupEjM9sV26GYwOtgvjK-5QAohI03G6SvvvzTkkfeBC2OEw2/s640/Riga+1.jpg" /></a></div>
Latvia has seen a steadily increasing flow of western tourists since it joined the European Union in 2004, but almost ninety percent of visitors still never get beyond Riga, the flamboyant capital and largest city. This means the rest of the country is still largely unexplored and just waiting to be discovered by those prepared to venture a little further afield. Distances are relatively small, and there are many worthwhile destinations within day trip distance of Riga by public transport. For those intent on exploring the countryside the tranquil town of Sigulda and the Gauja valley national park is an obvious starting point with crumbling castle ruins to clamber on and sporty outdoor activities galore, while windy Cape Kolka is the best place to find your own stretch of Baltic beachfront to go for a stroll. For those eager to get a taste of Latvia's Soviet past there are several top sites, particularly the Irbene radio telescope and the 'hotel' located in a former KGB prison in Liepaja.
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<b>1. Riga</b> - As the biggest city in the Baltic states Riga draws plenty of tourists with its photogenic good looks. The assortment of medieval and art nouveau architecture will have you straining your neck skywards trying to take it all in with a camera lens. Heaps of cultural attractions and museums could keep you busy here for weeks, while the gastronomic scene is constantly evolving with flashy new restaurants opening at a hectic pace. Give Riga at least a few days to rub off on you, but then hop on a bus and go and see the rest of the country, you won't regret it! <br/> <br/>
<b>2. Sigulda</b> - A lovely historic town with castles overlooking the Gauja valley and walking trails to caves along the valley floor. Thrill seekers can try out the Olympic-standard bobsleigh track in a real bobsleigh for a cool rush in the winter, or in a wheeled model in the summer months. <br/> <br/>
<b>3. Jurmala</b> - The main beach resort in Latvia with long sandy beaches which draw sun seekers from nearby Riga. The many art-nouveau wooden houses that line the main boulevards are another prime attraction to take a peek at after getting sand between your toes. <br/> <br/>
<b>4. Cesis</b> - Often called 'The Most Latvian Town', Cesis has a picturesque collection of old wooden houses surrounding a 13th-century castle in its historic quarter. Close proximity to attractions in the Guaja Valley National Park make Cesis a good base for exploring the area. <br/> <br/>
<b>5. Rundale Palace</b> - A baroque palace designed by Rastrelli in the 1730's, which today is one of the grandest palace complexes in the Baltic states. Its location near the southern border makes it a convenient stopover for those heading south from Riga into Lithuania. <br/> <br/>
<b>6. Cape Kolka and the northern Kurzeme coast</b> - A beautiful and desolate stretch of wind-battered coastline which fills with swimmers and sunbathers during the summer months. The small villages of the Kurzeme coast are full of rustic wooden cottages, fishing nets, and the smell of smoked fish. Learn about the Livs and the endangered Livonian language, a small ethnic group found in this region. <br/> <br/>
<b>7. Kuldiga</b> - This is one of the most attractive small towns in Latvia, boasting narrow streets and 17th and 18th century wooden buildings. The town's other claim to fame is for having the widest waterfall in Europe, though don't be expecting a mighty torrent cascading down a mountainside. <br/> <br/>
<b>8. Ventspils</b> - This busy port has done well for itself economically in the past two decades and as a result its historic centre has been spruced up considerably. The city draws summer visitors to nearby beaches and water parks, and the waterfront also features an outdoor maritime museum. The city's castle of the Livonian order also contains a fascinating museum on the history of the region. <br/> <br/>
<b>9. Irbene Soviet radio telescope</b> - For those interested in cold war history, this should be an essential stop. Once upon a time this was a Soviet radar station used to spy on western communications transmissions, and today it is used by Latvian astronomers to study the universe. Guided tours of the facility can be arranged, including the chance to climb up near the giant dish. <br/> <br/>
<b>10. Liepaja</b> - This coastal city is the third largest urban centre in Latvia and its central streets feature an array of art nouveau buildings. Latvians think of Liepaja as a great place to let their hair down and have a good time, and its series of summer events and music festivals are a popular draw with visitors from across the country. Stay for a night in the former KGB prison in the suburb of Karosta for an uncomfortable taste of reality tourism. <br/> <br/>
<b>11. Ligatne Soviet nuclear bunker</b> - This cold war site is found halfway between Sigulda and Cesis, and can be easily combined into a day trip to these towns from Riga. The bunker was intended to house the leaders of the Latvian communist party in the event of a nuclear attack, and today it has been preserved in its original appearance for visitors to see. <br/> <br/>
<b>12. Salaspils</b> - This World War Two concentration camp just outside Riga is a sombre reminder of the thousands of Jews who died here during the Nazi occupation. <br/> <br/>
<b>13. Talsi</b> - This tiny town is worth a brief stop on the way north towards Cape Kolka. The hills surrounding the town are a rarity in this part of the Baltics and add a backdrop to the set of cobbled streets and handful of historic houses. <br/> <br/>
<b>14. Kemeri National Park</b> - This park just west of Jurmala features small fishing villages with bog land and forests in the interior. It is best known for mud baths and mineral water treatments at the park's spa resort. <br/> <br/>
<b>15. Tukums</b> - A few kilometres from this small town in Kurzeme region is one of the country's most-visited attractions (at least by Latvians), a theme park historic town called "Cinevilla" which was constructed for a movie made in 2004. <br/> <br/>
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Goulash Trainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07469376520091036889noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5379161761480114626.post-24718982159302127232012-11-22T10:38:00.000-05:002013-06-14T21:58:30.033-04:00Wooden Churches of the Carpathian Mountains # 30 - Hărnicești, Romania<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNdcdvLml9nZ7JTzhh1XWnRQtcUsCzMCIuszsJy6VnuQiP3JSSAE2yUjispitXVsxFR-oieXJRKDywJ3cX8W4rPDMtWB1G1kaXQGtqBeemF3pESyYT05lrDbkthE7WnUv0bQgDSXxtQzQH/s1600/Geoff's+Autumn+2009+301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNdcdvLml9nZ7JTzhh1XWnRQtcUsCzMCIuszsJy6VnuQiP3JSSAE2yUjispitXVsxFR-oieXJRKDywJ3cX8W4rPDMtWB1G1kaXQGtqBeemF3pESyYT05lrDbkthE7WnUv0bQgDSXxtQzQH/s640/Geoff's+Autumn+2009+301.jpg" /></a></div>
This Orthodox church stands on a small forest-covered hill in the village of Hărnicești in the Maramures region of northwestern Romania. It was built in 1770 on the site of an older monastery, and was dedicated to the Birth of the Virgin Mary. It is close to several other wooden churches in the Mara valley such as the one in the neighbouring village of Desești.
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The church has a very irregular design when compared to other nearby churches in the region, and this is the result of a series of restorations and additions which have occurred through the centuries. In the original design the tower of the church was considerably taller than it is today and the length of the nave was several metres shorter. The first major changes were made in 1893 when a newly enlarged narthex (entrance room) was added on to the end of the nave, and when the old interior wall between the nave and the original narthex was removed the nave was also enlarged in size.
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In 1911 a porch was added on the southern side of the nave with an extension made to the roof line with wooden pillars added to support the weight. The original decorated entrance portal on the western side was moved to the southern side to form part of the new entrance area. In 1942 the original iconostasis was replaced with a larger modern one, and in 1972 the tower was moved from its position above the end of the nave to a new position above the extended narthex.
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The interior contains several valuable icons, the finest of which are 'Ascension to Heaven', 'The Annunciation' and 'Entry into Jerusalem'. These icons have been displayed internationally as part of touring exhibitions of Romanian folk art. The rest of the interior is not particularly memorable, so the local villagers have compensated for this by decorating the church both inside and out with white scarves and colourful flower arrangements attached to the eaves.
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The addition of the bright scarves and wildflowers adds much to the overall impression given by the church, since these decorations are not seen in such abundance on other churches in the region. Around the exterior walls of the church below the eaves are the framed pictures of the Stations of the Cross which are used by worshippers during religious services. On the southern exterior wall of the nave there is a 'clapper', a wooden board which is struck to create a high-pitched sound which traditionally would have called the villagers to masses. A decorative wooden cross with a shingled roof covering it can be seen beside the pathway on the way up to the church from the entrance gate by the road.
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The village of Hărnicești is directly on the main road between Sighetu Marmației and Baia Mare, so a number of buses pass through daily. Sighet is a good place to use as a base for exploring the region of Maramures and it has good onward transport connections by train and bus to other parts of the country. There is also a border crossing to Ukraine just north of the city if you would like to see some of the wooden churches in the neighbouring Zakarpattya region.
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Goulash Trainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07469376520091036889noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5379161761480114626.post-3902068801046646402012-11-21T16:14:00.000-05:002013-06-14T22:10:59.721-04:00Wooden Churches of the Carpathian Mountains # 29 - Hunkovce, Slovakia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAIJ88cHpA3omH3q9Kfn6JsUyMBpSLpbbks0Ldawwq6FOW_5e5eEm5Xp4Vkw7fyRDjBi_DcpMP2buWSrEqa8C09tfNRoyTAz9I3Dd7rVZ9eGfge-qBA6FUXCYSvukdyjY3TInaRynI5512/s1600/Spring+2009+Geoff+919.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAIJ88cHpA3omH3q9Kfn6JsUyMBpSLpbbks0Ldawwq6FOW_5e5eEm5Xp4Vkw7fyRDjBi_DcpMP2buWSrEqa8C09tfNRoyTAz9I3Dd7rVZ9eGfge-qBA6FUXCYSvukdyjY3TInaRynI5512/s640/Spring+2009+Geoff+919.jpg" /></a></div>
This photogenic Greek-Catholic church stands on a small hill next to the road in the village of Hunkovce in north-east Slovakia. There are Rusyn wooden churches in nearly every village between the town of Svidník and the Polish border, but Hunkovce's church is the only one which can be easily seen from the main road while driving past. The church was built at the very end of the 18th century, probably in 1799, and was dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin Mary.
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The church has a perfect Lemko design plan, with the tallest of three towers above the narthex (entrance area), the middle one above the nave and the lowest above the sanctuary. Each of the towers features intricately detailed onion domes with large ornamented metal crosses in Baroque style placed above. The wooden structure of the building sits on a low stone foundation layer to protect it from water seepage from the ground.
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There is a small Greek-Catholic cemetery on the hill surrounding the church, with several cast-iron cross markers that date from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The small shingle-roofed entrance gate beside the road is all that remains of the traditional wooden fence which once surrounded both the church and cemetery.
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The village of Hunkovce saw heavy fighting in the battle for the nearby Dukla Pass in 1944; most of the houses in the settlement were destroyed, and the church suffered extensive damage to the roof and walls. It was later repaired and named a National Heritage Landmark building in 1968. At the southern end of the village there is a large World War Two German military cemetery with the graves of more than 2000 German soldiers who fought in the battle.
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In 2010 the exterior of the church was fully reconstructed with new wooden siding and roof shingles (these photos were taken a few months before the restoration). The church is empty and has no interior fittings because the iconostasis and icons were removed and placed in museums in Bardejov and Svidník. No religious services are held here, since there is a modern Greek-Catholic church across the road which serves this purpose for the local villagers. If you'd still like to see the inside of the wooden church, try to find the local priest who is often in the modern church across the road.
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Hunkovce is one of the easiest churches to visit in Svidník region because it is directly on the main road to the Polish border and many buses travel along this route daily. The bus from Svidník takes about 20 minutes to reach the village, and it is another 25 minutes from there to the border. After crossing the border on foot, Polish buses run from the border to the towns of Dukla and Krosno. Svidník isn't very aesthetically pleasing, but it is the most convenient place to use as a base when visiting the wooden churches in this region, and the town also has a superb outdoor folk museum and the Ukrainian-Rusyn Cultural Museum.
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Goulash Trainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07469376520091036889noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5379161761480114626.post-53631611547688250662012-11-20T17:26:00.001-05:002013-06-14T22:21:25.300-04:00Wooden Churches of the Carpathian Mountains # 28 - Sat Șugatag, Romania<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWDv26757jbUw14jt0HpW1TvBtTiW9QoAe76SGh88MgSkGxK8S4jY6KTu-UvKe-GCJF7RsbWe6qX4k40tolxN0wpQmBtn5dQsMu4-tpW6RFkN1_wpKaEQBr9rGPR00N1jN0Q7aYxGnHUeF/s1600/Geoff's+Autumn+2009+283.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWDv26757jbUw14jt0HpW1TvBtTiW9QoAe76SGh88MgSkGxK8S4jY6KTu-UvKe-GCJF7RsbWe6qX4k40tolxN0wpQmBtn5dQsMu4-tpW6RFkN1_wpKaEQBr9rGPR00N1jN0Q7aYxGnHUeF/s640/Geoff's+Autumn+2009+283.jpg" /></a></div>
This beautiful church stands in the centre of the village of Sat Șugatag, located in the Mara river valley in Romania's north-eastern Maramures region. Nearly every village in this part of Maramures has a historic church, but the one in Sat Șugatag is among the most impressive structures to have been built by the skilled Maramures craftsmen. The date of the construction of the church is thought to be 1642, and it is dedicated to Saint Parasceva.
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The interior contains fragments of the original mural paintings from 1753, but most of the painted decorations are more recent. The narthex (entrance area) has a higher ceiling than is typically seen in Maramures churches, and on its western side there is an impressive image of the Last Judgement. The well-proportioned nave is shaped like a barrel vault and is decorated with 19th century paintings. The sanctuary also has biblical scenes which are painted directly onto the wooden walls.
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The frame for the front door is lavishly decorated with braided rope designs and a series of interlocking triangles, which is a common folk design in the Maramures region. Braided ropes start on both sides of the door and continue right around the full length of the church, about one and a half metres above the ground (see the fifth picture from the top).
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The double set of eaves and the huge mass of wooden shingles on the roof surface draw the viewer's eye to the end of the roof lines, where there are two small metal crosses affixed. The height of the tower and the steeple is considerably less than that of some other churches in the region, but the overall proportions of the building create a pleasantly balanced effect. Around the exterior walls under the lower set of eaves there are a series of framed pictures attached which are used as the Stations of the Cross during religious services (see the picture below).
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A cemetery surrounds the church on three sides, with grave markers from many different eras and in a variety of styles. Most are made of carved wood (see below) and some are shaped like crosses while others are closer in appearance to those in the famous Merry Cemetery in Sapanta with a painted picture of the person going about their daily activities and a short poem describing them.
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A typical wooden Maramures entrance gate stands in front of the church, with two side doorways for visitors. The designs carved into the beams of the gate include crosses and other traditional Romanian folk patterns. Such monumental gates are also built in front of people's homes in the region, and the larger and more impressive the gate the greater the status of the family who lives there.
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Visiting Sat Șugatag and other Maramures villages with wooden churches can be difficult without your own transport, so hiring a car in Cluj-Napoca or Sighetu Marmetiei is advisable if you want to visit several of them quickly. Sat Șugatag is on the main road between Baia Mare and Sighetu Marmetiei, so there are a few buses per day which pass through in each direction. Sighetu Marmatiei is connected by train with Cluj-Napoca and the rest of the country and also makes a good base for exploring the region of Maramures. It is also a border crossing point into Ukraine, where many more wooden churches can be seen in the villages of the Zakarpattya region.
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Goulash Trainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07469376520091036889noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5379161761480114626.post-89394765674987141202012-11-19T16:48:00.000-05:002013-06-14T22:31:47.409-04:00Wooden Churches of the Carpathian Mountains # 27 - Tročany, Slovakia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgDpcJPGWwVMSywDzRmH5TwveqrQ4a884UB-xWk1Hnoilig96cnZa_sRzUmKR446NU8jFrtlqOFm03fU5Qy0OjsrQvv2YWESpZOUNsX6J4YRr9qwdReVySwTJ9ou4Hl7vzRa_UVQPWrBKj/s1600/Blansko,+Stratena,+Slovensky+Raj,+etc+154.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgDpcJPGWwVMSywDzRmH5TwveqrQ4a884UB-xWk1Hnoilig96cnZa_sRzUmKR446NU8jFrtlqOFm03fU5Qy0OjsrQvv2YWESpZOUNsX6J4YRr9qwdReVySwTJ9ou4Hl7vzRa_UVQPWrBKj/s640/Blansko,+Stratena,+Slovensky+Raj,+etc+154.JPG" /></a></div>
This newly restored church stands in the centre of the small village of Tročany, located south of Bardejov in eastern Slovakia. Research conducted during the past few years has confirmed that the church is much older than had been previously thought; samples taken from its wooden beams were tested and the date of its construction was found to be the end of the 15th century or the first years of the 16th century. This puts it into the same age bracket as the Roman Catholic church in Hervartov, previously believed to be the oldest surviving wooden church in Slovakia. It is among the oldest Greek-Catholic wooden churches in the entire Carpathian mountain region.
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Dedicated to Luke the Holy Apostle and Evangelist, the church has a standard Greek-Catholic floor plan with a sanctuary, nave and narthex (entrance area). Above the entrance porch there is a bell tower topped with a very unusually shaped cap which looks like a candle extinguisher. A similarly shaped cap sits above the central nave, while the sanctuary has no cap or steeple attached. The bell tower contains two bells which are still in regular use during religious services. At the top of the cap of the bell tower is a simple double-barred cross, while the cap above the nave has a more decorative single-barred cross.
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The interior contains a restored iconostasis from the 17th century, though it is missing some of its original features. Instead of the typical Last Supper scene placed above the middle Czar door there is the Mandilion, a picture of the face of Christ on a cloth without a crown of thorns. In the sanctuary the altar is decorated with an 18th century icon depicting the Descent from the Cross, while the preparatory table in the corner has an icon of Saint Michael the Archangel. There are small windows on the right-hand side of both the nave and the sanctuary which allow some natural light to enter.
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Today the church is used by both Greek Catholics and Roman Catholics, so the interior contains some modern Roman Catholic fittings which thankfully do not detract from the beauty of the older Greek Catholic artifacts. The church has undergone several renovations throughout its history, with major work carried out in 1897, 1933 and 1968. In 2010 and 2011 the church was completely restored both inside and out with funding provided by the European Regional Development Fund as part of a cross-border project to promote economic growth and cooperation between south-eastern Poland and north-eastern Slovakia.
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The key for the church is kept by a family which lives at the opposite end of the village; if you are standing at the church go left along the road, pass the turning point for the road out to the main highway, continue up the slight incline of the hill and the house is on the right, the second house past the village office. You need to open their front gate and walk up and knock on the door on the right side of the house. The family are used to opening the church every day for visitors and are very friendly (they even speak a word or two of English) and they have pamphlets and books for sale about the Greek-Catholic churches in the region.
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Tročany is not serviced by regular bus transport, but it is a two kilometre walk from the village out to the main road running between Bardejov and Prešov, and there is a bus stop at the turnoff to the village where buses pass by every hour or two. Prešov is a major transport hub with train and bus connections throughout the country, while Bardejov is the best place to base yourself for a tour of the wooden churches found in its vicinity.
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Goulash Trainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07469376520091036889noreply@blogger.com0