Sunday, February 27, 2011

The Czech Republic's Top 100 Destinations

The Czech Republic is a country with an abundance of cultural and historical riches that warrant and reward extensive exploration. Visitors who spend just a few days in Prague before moving on to the next country are really just scratching the surface, there's so much more that this small Slavic nation has to offer. The list that follows contains what I consider to be the 100 most interesting destinations for tourists, taking into consideration a mix of cultural, architectural, historical and natural attractions.
1. Prague - A city that needs no introduction given its present status as one of the world's greatest tourist destinations. Some people feel it's become too popular for its own good, and I'd agree with that as far as the major routes through the old town and castle district are concerned, but take a stroll away from the tour groups by merely turning down a side street in Malá Strana or Hradčany and you can still see daily life going on just steps from the bustle of the tourist crowds. For a typical Czech experience, look beyond the historic centre to districts like Žižkov, Vinohrady or Holešovice for a place to enjoy local restaurants and pubs without the tourist prices. Experience the city to the fullest, but then be sure to get on a train and go out to see what the rest of the country has to offer, you won't be disappointed!

2. Český Krumlov - One of Europe's most beautiful small towns, featuring an array of medieval buildings which are virtually untouched by modern development. The town has by now been well and truly discovered, and this is the one place outside Prague that a significant number of foreign tourists visit. Don't let that put you off though, this is an essential stop on any tour of the country and a great introduction to the Rose towns of South Bohemia.

3. Olomouc - A major city in the region of North Moravia, Olomouc features an exceptionally pretty old town area centred around two cobbled main squares. This is a great place to experience city life in beautiful surroundings without the accompanying tourist crowds and prices.

4. Karlovy Vary - The largest of the Bohemian spa towns, Karlovy Vary is set in a deep forested river valley with a series of natural springs along the valley floor. It may largely cater to a well-heeled audience of Germans and Russians in search of snazzy and exotic health treatments, but there is plenty for the average tourist to see and experience.

5. Karlštejn Castle - One of the most dramatically impressive castles in the country when viewed from afar, though the interior is somewhat less remarkable. This was King Charles IV's place of retreat from the bustle of Prague, and he forbid women from entering. His wife Anna successfully entered the castle dressed as a man, a tale which became a hugely popular comedy in the 19th century and is still loved today. The castle is at its best at 9am when it first opens, before the tour groups start to arrive.

6. Telč - A perfect medieval square of arcaded 16th-century buildings makes Telč a great place to pause and sample provincial life for a while. Visiting in autumn when the carp ponds which surround the town are drained to harvest the fish provides a uniquely Czech experience.

7. Mikulov - A beautiful small town in South Moravia, found just a few kilometres from the Austrian border. A large chateau sits on a hilltop in the centre with the town spread out on the slopes surrounding it. This is a great place to experience the local Czech wine industry, the white wines produced here are particularly good.

8. Adršpach-Teplice Rock Towns - Huge slabs of stone rise vertically out of the forest in weird and wonderful shapes, making this one of the most interesting natural landscapes in the country. The area provides plenty of hiking opportunities.

9. Loket - A small town in West Bohemia which gives Český Krumlov a run for its money in terms of picturesque location, without the large tourist crowds of the latter.

10. Konopiště Castle - The former home of the Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand, this castle is stuffed with an extensive display of his hunting trophies and furniture. The highlight is the landscaped garden and views of the castle while on the walking trail around the lake.

11. Kutná Hora - A medieval silver mining town which had a population equal to London in the 14th century, Kutná Hora holds a clutch of superb monuments within its old town centre. In the nearby suburb of Sedlec, the ossuary (bone church) forms the main reason most visitors come here, which is to gawk at the downright bizarre sculptures and decorations made from human bones. The highlight is the chandelier, which includes at least one of every different bone in the human body.

12. Bohemian Switzerland National Park - Found in the far north of the country near the German border, this region is famed for its unique sandstone rock formations. The Pravčická Brána is the largest natural stone arch on the European continent and is probably the most impressive sight.

13. Křivoklát Castle - A large castle to the south-west of the capital, Křivoklát is probably my personal favourite of the 'big three' castles near Prague (together with Karlštejn and Konopiště). Set in wooded, hilly countryside, the castle looks spectacular when viewed from one of the surrounding hilltops.

14. Brno - The largest city in Moravia and the country's counterpoint to Prague, Brno features a lively and strollable old town centre with a hilltop castle and the chance to try out some of the nation's finest pubs.

15. Tábor - A pretty town in South Bohemia, Tábor gets far fewer visitors than it deserves. Its web of cobbled streets are fascinating to explore, and as a bonus there is the colourful Klokoty monastery to visit on the outskirts of town.

16. Mariánské Lázně - A spa which once hosted royalty from across Europe, today this small town continues to draw visitors with its healing waters and beautiful 19th-century architecture.

17. Štramberk - Probably my favourite small town in the country, with a collection of wooden buildings in the distinct Wallachian style spread across a hillside below the round castle tower known as Trúba.

18. Český Ráj - The best hiking within easy reach of the capital, with dramatic sandstone cliffs and formations that create a fascinating environment to trek through.

19. Hradec Králové - A large city in East Bohmemia, with a showpiece main square and an impressive old town. Across the river lies the new town, built in the interwar years in the distinctive Czech style known as Rondo-Cubism.

20. Terezín - Originally a Habsburg-era fortress town, Terezín was put to much darker use during WW2 as a Jewish ghetto used as a transit point en route to the Nazi concentration camps in Poland. A visit to the museum here is an essential stop on a historical tour of the country.

21. Moravian Karst - A landscape of limestone canyons and caves just north of the city of Brno.

22. Slavonice - A small town on the Austrian border with an exceptional collection of sgraffito facades in its two main squares.

23. Lednice - Part of the Lednice-Valtice complex once owned by the Lichtenstein family, the town features a chateau with impressive gardens and a 30-metre minaret to climb.

24. Rožnov Pod Radhoštěm - The finest Skansen (outdoor museum) in the country, with dozens of wooden buildings representing the typical traditional architecture of the mountainous Wallachia region.

25. Plzeň - A large city in West Bohemia which has the Pilsner Urquell brewery as its prime attraction. The Gothic cathedral in the central square has the tallest steeple in the country, which you can climb for a panoramic view.

26. Hluboká nad Vltavou - A mock-Gothic castle in South Bohemia which was supposedly redesigned to resemble England's Windsor castle.

27. Pernštejn Castle - A classic Gothic castle on a wooded hill found north-west of Brno.

28. Litomyšl - A small town in East Bohemia with a beautiful old town and the bizarre Portmoneum. It was also the birthplace of the Czech composer Bedřich Smetana.

29. Šumava National Park - This is the most pristine stretch of mountain wilderness in the country, making it a magnet for visitors who enjoy hiking and outdoor activities.

30. Třeboň - A small walled town in South Bohemia surrounded by a network of carp ponds. The old town core is one of the most architecturally complete in Bohemia.

31. České Budějovice - A large city in South Bohemia which produces the famous Budvar beer. Try a glass while sitting in the picturesque central square.

32. Moravský Krumlov - Home to the Slav Epic paintings by Czech artist Alfons Mucha in the town's chateau. The paintings may soon be moved to Prague, so take the opportunity to see them in their original home before they head off to the big city.

33. Znojmo - A picturesque town perched on the edge of a deep river valley, with impressive Romanesque frescoes in its old town area.

34. Jindřichův Hradec - A small town in South Bohemia with an impressive castle complex.

35. Vranov Nad Dyjí Castle - A castle perched on a clifftop near the Austrian border in South Moravia.

36. Krkonoše Mountains - The best skiing in the country is found here, along with the country's highest mountain, Sněžka.

37. Kokořín Castle - A 14th-century castle which sits among wooded hills and valleys to the north of Prague.

38. Litoměřice - A small town in North Bohemia with an old town containing many picturesque churches.

39. Valtice - The southern town of the Lednice-Valtice complex, featuring the palace which the Lichtenstein family once called home.

40. Kroměříž - A pretty town in South Moravia with a chateau and extensive landscaped gardens.

41. Pardubice - A city in East Bohemia which includes a large palace and old town square containing several buildings with highly decorative facades.

42. Prachatice - A small walled town in South Bohemia with impressive sgraffito facades in its old town centre.

43. Bouzov Castle - A huge Neo-Gothic castle not far from the city of Olomouc.

44. Mělník - A town in North Bohemia which is noted for its wine production as well as its castle perched high above the point where the Vltava and Labe rivers meet.

45. Pustevny - A small village of colourfully decorated folk cottages on a mountaintop, with excellent hiking or skiing options in the vicinity.

46. Červená Lhota Castle - A renaissance-era castle in South Bohemia beautifully situated in the middle of a lake.

47. Liberec - A major city of North Bohemia with a splendid neo-renaissance town hall.

48. Trosky Castle - A castle perched on a narrow blade of rock at the edge of the Český Ráj region.

49. Zvíkov Castle - A striking medieval castle found in South Bohemia.

50. Zelená Hora Pilgrimage Church in Ždár Nad Sazavou - A unique star-shaped structure on a hilltop designed by Giovanni Santini.

51. Český Šternberk Castle - A Gothic castle sitting high above a river valley to the south-east of the capital.

52. Kost Castle - A large castle sitting on top of a column of sandstone in the Český Ráj region.

53. Bítov Castle - A hilltop castle located in South Moravia.

54. Svatá Hora Shrine in Příbram - A colourful Marian shrine on a hill in an otherwise drab industrial town in Bohemia.

55. Ještěd Tower - A socialist-era TV tower and hotel near the city of Liberec which has become one of the most recognisable symbols of the Czech lands, at least to the Czechs themselves.

56. Františkovy Lázně - The third of the major spa towns of West Bohemia, with pleasant architecture and a much more relaxed feel than Karlovy Vary.

57. Bezděz Castle - A Gothic ruin perched on a rocky outcrop in North Bohemia.

58. Podyjí National Park - A series or rolling hills and woodlands dotted with various castles and ruins, creating an ideal destination for hiking.

59. Rabí Castle - A large castle ruin in South Bohemia sitting above the village of the same name.

60. Strážnice Folk Festival - The largest and most popular folk festival in the country, held each year in June.

61. Kuks - A collection of Baroque spa buildings with a fantastic collection of ornate statues.

62. Cheb - A town on the German border in West Bohemia with a beautiful old town centre and an imposing castle.

63. Kladruby Monastery - A Benedictine monastery containing a central church in Romanesque and Gothic style.

64. Orlík Castle - A 19th-century riverside castle with elegant interiors found in South Bohemia.

65. Wooden Churches of the Beskydy Region - Several impressive Roman Catholic wooden churches can be seen in far-east Moravia. The finest is in the village of Guty, near the Polish border.

66. Blatná Castle - A water castle surrounded by an artificial lake found in South Bohemia.

67. Nové Město Nad Metují - A small town in East Bohemia with a chateau and perfectly preserved central square.

68. Rožmberk Nad Vltavou - A quaint village near Český Krumlov with a huge fortress on a narrow ledge of rock above the Vltava river.

69. Landštejn Castle - A ruined 13th-century structure located near the Austrian border.

70. Holašovice - A village of baroque-style folk architecture in South Bohemia.

71. Pelhřimov - A small medieval town east of Tábor with a well-preserved central square and a museum dedicated to Czech attempts to break Guiness Book world records.

72. Domažlice - A pleasant town centred on a long and narrow central square found not far from the German border in West Bohemia.

73. Písek Bridge - An 11th-century stone construction which is even older than Prague's Charles Bridge.

74. Lidice Museum - A small museum which describes the WW2 events in which the Nazis burned the village of Lidice to the ground and shot the inhabitants or sent them off to concentration camps in retaliation for the assassination of Nazi leader Reinhard Heydrich.

75. Buchlov Castle - A Gothic castle in hilly countryside in South Moravia.

76. Jičín - A welcoming town with an arcaded central square and a renaissance palace found in East Bohemia.

77. Nelahozoves - A village just north of Prague with a large chateau and the birthplace museum of the Czech composer Antonín Dvořák.

78. Ride of the Kings Folk Festival in Vlčnov - A folk festival in the Slovacko region of Moravia held each year in May.

79. Šternberk Castle - A large castle in the town of Šternberk found north of the city of Olomouc.

80. Třebíč - Features one of the most well-preserved Jewish ghettos in the country, as well as a Romanesque basilica.

81. Slavkov (Austerlitz Battlefield) - The location where in 1805 Napoleon's troops defeated the combined forces of Austria and Russia. Today there is a Peace Monument and a museum on the site.

82. Boskovice - A town north of Brno with a fine chateau, castle ruin, Jewish synagogue and a rather unexpected Wild West theme park.

83. The Grave of T.G. Masaryk in Lány - This village to the west of Prague is where the first President of Czechoslovakia is buried, and his grave is a place of pilgrimage for many Czechs. Nearby the grave site is the Czech presidential summer palace.

84. Veltrusy - A beautiful baroque chateau surrounded by gardens and a park north of Prague.

85. Kašperské Hory - A pretty little village in South Moravia which was once a German mining town. The highlights include an eye-catching renaissance town hall and an unusual motorcycle museum.

86. Velké Losiny - A small Moravian spa town featuring an impressive Renaissance-style chateau and a hand-made paper museum.

87. Strakonice Castle - A 13th-century fortress with a round tower in South Bohemia.

88. Broumov Wooden Church - Probably the finest wooden church in the country along with the one in Guty. This is the oldest one in the Czech Republic, dating from the 14th century.

89. Český Kras caves - A region south of the capital with a large number of caves, one of which is officially open to the public, the Koněpruské Jeskyně.

90. Žatec - A pleasant old town in North Bohemia with a museum dedicated to the hops industry and its role in beer production.

91. Preserved Section of the Iron Curtain in Čížov - A stretch of the original barbed wire fences and a watchtower which have been preserved as a monument in the village of Čížov, on the border with Austria.

92. Nový Jičín - A town in north Moravia with an impressive central square with arcaded facades and a hat museum.

93. Řip Hill - A hill north of the capital which legend claims was the place where the founding father of the Czech nation, Praotec Čech, declared all the territory which surrounded the hill as the Czech lands. There is a 12th-century rotunda at the top to visit, so climbing the hill is a popular patriotic activity for Czechs.

94. Helfštýn Castle - An excellent hilltop castle ruin in North Moravia, with great hiking in the surrounding hills.

95. Kadaň - A historic town in North Bohemia full of 18th-century buildings and a strikingly unique town hall.

96. Jihlava - An old silver mining town in South Moravia with an attractive old town centre.

97. Sázava - A small town featuring a chateau and an 11th-century monastery high on a plateau above the Sázava river.

98. Jaroměřice nad Rokytnou - A huge and colourful baroque chateau dominates this small town in south Moravia.

99. Kolin - A small medieval town to the east of Prague with a cobbled square full of Renaissance and Baroque buildings.

100. Náchod - A small town on the Polish border with a beautiful hilltop chateau.

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Remarkable Relics of Communism # 7 - Tirana, Albania

This massive wall mural is found above the entrance to the National History Museum of Albania in the capital city of Tirana. It dominates the city's central square, making it one of the most recognizable images of Tirana. The mural portrays proud and strong Albanians defending the territory of their country against foreign invaders during every period of the nation's history, including the ancient Illyrians, the resistance to Turkish rule led by Skanderbeg, the partisan fighters of World War Two and the communist era under Enver Hoxha.
The only change that has been made since the end of the communist period is that a red star has been removed from the flag. The museum itself is equally fascinating and makes a great introduction to the complexities of Albanian history. A number of important artifacts were looted during the 1990's, but there is still an impressive collection of exhibits on display.

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Quirky and Unusual Sights # 4 - The Minaret in Lednice, Czech Republic

The Lednice-Valtice region was once the family home of the Lichtensteins, who began developing the complex in the 18th century. Many pavilions, fountains, statues, arches and castle ruins can be found spread over an area of several hundred square kilometres. In the 19th century the complex was further developed with many structures built between the family's palaces in the towns of Lednice and Valtice.
The palace in Lednice is surrounded by a huge landscaped garden, the most unique and outlandish feature of which is the minaret, built in a Moorish-revival style in 1802. At 60 metres high, it was supposedly the tallest minaret outside the Muslim world at the time of its construction. In the early 19th century it was very popular for the European aristocracy to embrace exotic foreign cultures and artistic forms by having palace rooms decorated in Chinese, Japanese or Middle Eastern styles.
One story of the minaret's construction claims that Prince Alois Lichtenstein had planned to construct a church in the town of Lednice, but his proposal was rejected by the local municipality. As an act of cheeky defiance, he ordered the construction of the minaret as a substitute. Its construction was led by the architect Hardmuth, who had a difficult task given the extremely swampy ground the structure is built on. This was overcome by driving wooden piles deep into the soil to act as a foundation. The minaret has a wide base structure with turrets and arcades lining the roof, all topped with a crescent moon symbol. The exterior of the lower floor is decorated with textual inscriptions from the Koran written in Arabic script. The lower floor contains eight rooms with Moorish designs painted on the walls. The main tower provides views over the Lednice castle gardens and as far south as Valtice and the Austrian border. Today it is used as a lookout tower and is a popular attraction for visitors to the Lednice palace.
The Lednice-Valtice area is a possible day trip from Brno, Bratislava or Vienna. Local trains connect it to the nearby town of Břeclav, which is a major rail hub with regular trains to all the surrounding cities and international capitals. The Lednice-Valtice area can also be explored while staying in Mikulov, which is a lovely Czech town a few kilometres west of the region.

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Folk Culture Destinations # 2 - Terchová, Slovakia

Terchová is a small town with a big role in Slovak folk culture. Found in northern Slovakia a few kilometres east of the city of Žilina, this was the birthplace of the national hero Juraj Jánošík, an early 18th-century Robin Hood figure who stole from the rich landholders and gave to the poor peasants while becoming a symbol of national resistance. Today a statue of Jánošík overlooks the town from a hilltop, while a small museum contains artifacts and details from his life as an outlaw.
Several folk festivals of traditional dance and music are held each year in Terchová, as well as many other traditional cultural events. One of my favourites is the annual high-speed hay cutting championships held in late June. Competitors race to cut a patch of long grass in a field using a scythe in the traditional manner. There are individual time trials for male and female competitors, as well as team events where groups of five must cut larger areas of a field in the fastest possible time.
Spectators sing folk songs about working in the fields to encourage the contestants, and they follow the action intensely, since bragging rights for an entire year are on the line. The competitors are mostly locals from Terchová and the surrounding villages plus a few Slovaks from other regions of the country. At the end of each round, the competitors are rewarded for their efforts with a shot of plum brandy and a team of older women dressed in traditional costumes comes out to clean up the freshly cut grass with rakes. An awards ceremony follows at the end of the day with prizes for the winners in each category, while everyone enjoys plates of goulash cooked in a giant kettle over a fire. This is a wonderfully unique event and a great cultural experience to enjoy.
Terchová is easily reached by bus from the city of Žilina, which is on the main train line running through the country with frequent connections to Bratislava and Košice as well as several trains daily to Prague. There are a number of small hotels in Terchová and lots of guesthouses, I've stayed at the Penzion Furmanec several times, but there are many more, including the Penzion Goral, Penzion Terchová, and Penzion Montana.

Saturday, February 5, 2011

A Croatian Top 30 - The Best Destinations in Croatia

The Croatian coastal areas of Dalmatia and Istria have become extremely popular destinations and rightly so, but there's so much more to see and experience in this oddly-shaped Slavic nation. The interior is still an unknown quantity for most visitors, while some stretches of coastline and a few islands still hold promise for those who want to get away from the mass tourist crowds. Here are my favourite spots in Croatia - the first dozen are quite well-known, but many of the others are still visited by far fewer foreign travellers than they deserve. Enjoy!

1. Dubrovnik - Everyone knows about this wonderful coastal city with its unmatchable collection of marble streets and baroque buildings. A walk along the top of the city walls while looking out over the Adriatic provides one of the most memorable views in all of Croatia, if not in the world.

2. Hvar Island - A place of endless sunshine, beaches and glamourous luxury, Hvar receives the second-highest number of tourist visitors in the country after Dubrovnik. Hvar Town is a compact settlement of classical buildings and gothic palaces with an extensive assortment of swanky restaurants and boutique hotels. The Španjol, the medieval citadel on the hill above the town, gives superlative views out over the harbour and surrounding islands.

3. Plitvice Lakes National Park - A series of turquoise-coloured lakes and waterfalls connected by a network of wooden walkways that allow visitors to get right up close and rather wet. The park contains 16 lakes, with the upper lakes being the most impressive due to the thick green forest that surrounds them. Plitvice is actually the place where the Yugoslav civil war began in March 1991, when Serb forces took control of the national park buildings. Luckily, the conflict caused no damage to the natural environment of Plitvice, which remains as lovely as ever.

4. Split - A city built around a Roman emperor's palace, Split is Croatia's second-largest city after Zagreb. Within the huge palace walls a marble street plan forms the core of the old city, with daily life unfolding in the courtyards and narrow laneways. The city is often overlooked by many who use it merely as a transportation hub, but spend an evening strolling in the old town and you'll be won over by Split's mysterious magic.

5. Rovinj - A small fishing community that has become the most popular destination in Istria, Rovinj's appeal stems from its perfect old town of cobbled streets and piazzas that surround the hilltop church of St. Euphemia. Several green islands off the coast from the Rovinj peninsula are reachable by boat and make a great day excursion.

6. Korčula Island - A place of forests, olive groves, vineyards and traditional villages, Korčula is a great place to sample Croatian music and culture. Korčula Town is a marble beauty of Gothic and Renaissance buildings with red rooftops and palm trees all around.

7. Zagreb - The capital of Croatia is a world apart from the coast, a bustling big city with an old town of Austro-Hungarian architecture at its centre. Museums, art and cultural attractions are plentiful, while the historic district is full of quirky cafes and coffee houses. It's worth taking two or three days to settle in and get to know the place.

8. Zadar - A Dalmatian coastal city of marble streets and Roman ruins with excellent nightlife. The Sea Organ and Sun Salutation are two unique sculptural features of the town's shoreline.

9. Trogir - A lovely walled town not far along the Dalmatian coast from Split. Romanesque churches and buildings remain from Venetian colonial days, an impressive enough collection to warrant giving the town UNESCO heritage status.

10. Mljet Island - An unspoiled Dalmatian island that has been mostly protected from resorts and other tourist development. The western end of the island is a National Park, where the Big and Small Lakes are the main attraction. In the middle of Big Lake there is an island with a monastery on it which can be visited.

11. Rab Town - A beautiful small town on Rab Island with four tall bell towers that rise above the stone houses which surround them on the hillside. There are several terrific beaches within easy reach of the town.

12. Poreč - A busy tourist centre in the summer months, Poreč is a much more rewarding place to visit in spring or autumn. The old town contains the Euphrasian Basilica, a 6th century structure with UNESCO status.

13. Tramuntana Region of Cres Island - A region of forests and abandoned villages with great potential for hikers. Beli is the main village in the region, while Lubenice is another hilltop village on the western side of the island which is also well worth visiting.

14. Varaždin - A pleasant town north of Zagreb featuring a Baroque old town and the impressive Stari Grad fortress. This was the capital of Croatia in the 18th century, and many buildings survive from that important period.

15. Kornati Islands National Park - A rugged, rocky series of barren islands with many caves and steep cliffs, these are some of the most beautifully scenic islands in the country. Visitors head to Kornat and Piškera island to see the bizarre stone formations.

16. Vis Island - Probably the least-touristed of the main islands, Vis was off-limits to foreigners until 1989. Now visitors from all over come to enjoy the peaceful way of life and the great seafood.

17. Pula - A city on the Istrian coast with one of the most well-preserved Roman amphitheatres in existence. Further Roman buildings, temples and arches can be seen in the old town centre.

18. Elafiti Islands - A group of small islands close to Dubrovnik that make ideal daytrips by ferry. Šipan is the largest, but my favourite is Lopud, with a quiet village of stone houses and a long stretch of sandy beach in a cove on the opposite side of the island.

19. Krka National Park - A series of lakes and waterfalls which are of similar beauty to those at Plitvice, but with far fewer foreign tourists about. It is possible to take a picturesque swim below some of the waterfalls.

20. Šibenik - A Dalmatian coastal town with the Gothic Cathedral of St. James, a UNESCO-listed monument. The old town of marble streets features 16th-century buildings clustered around several squares. The surrounding coast is clogged with hotels and resorts, but the town centre is worth a day's exploring.

21. Motovun - A small hilltop town in the Istrian interior with an intact set of surrounding walls. Gothic buildings dot the centre, and the views of the surrounding countryside encourage you to sit over a glass of wine and take it all in.

22. Veliki Tabor Castle - This five-sided fortress north of Zagreb is probably the most interesting castle in the Croatian interior. The 16th-century structure is set in hilly, forested country with many hiking trails nearby.

23. Primošten - A beautiful tiny coastal town on a peninsula south of Šibenik, with medieval houses and narrow laneways. A lone church tower stands out on the hill above the town's old stone buildings.

24. Brijuni Islands - Made famous as the private retreat of Tito, the former leader of Yugoslavia. His Bijela Vila home on Veli Brijun island was his place of residence for six months of the year and was used to host visiting heads of state.

25. Samobor - A relaxing small town just a few kilometres west of Zagreb surrounded by forested hills that are great for hiking trips.

26. Osijek - The main city of Slavonia region, Osijek was a major battlefield during the Balkan wars of the 1990's. A large citadel surrounds the old town centre, which features cobblestone streets and baroque buildings. A few shell scars on the sides of buildings remain from the time of the conflict, but the city is rapidly restoring its historic centre.

27. Pazin - The main town of the Istrian interior, Pazin is famous as the location of the deep chasm that inspired Jules Verne to write the book called Mathias Sandorf with its events taking place in Pazin. The large castle that overlooks the chasm is also the finest in Istria.

28. Opatija - a small town along the coast from Rijeka which is set on one of the most beautiful stretches of the Croatian shoreline. The town developed as a seaside resort for the rich and famous during the Austro-Hungarian empire, and today it is visited by tourists for the excellent sea food restaurants in the nearby village of Volosko.

29. Kumrovec - The hometown of Josip Broz Tito, this is a pretty little village not far from the border with Slovenia. Today it has been turned into an open-air museum as a recreation of a 19th-century Croatian village. A statue of Tito stands proudly outside the house where he was born.

30. Trakošcan Castle - Another impressive castle found north of Zagreb, surrounded by beautiful parks and gardens and a small lake. Originally Romanesque, the castle was reconstructed in a neo-Gothic style in the 19th century.

Monday, January 24, 2011

Photo Challenge # 12 - Name This Location

Here's the latest photo challenge for you to try, do you know where this was taken? As usual, clicking on the photo to enlarge it may help. Good luck!

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Wooden Churches of the Carpathian Mountains # 9 - Šemetkovce, Slovakia

This pretty little church is found on a small wooded hill above the village of Šemetkovce in the Svidník region of eastern Slovakia. It is a Greek-Catholic church named for St. Michael the Archangel, and dates from the year 1752. Like most wooden churches in the region, the structure was built without the use of metal nails using an ingenious woodcut pattern with wooden pegs inserted at the end of each log to hold the beams in place.
Another typical feature of Greek-Catholic churches which is found in the Šemetkovce church is the emphasis placed on the number three, symbolising the Holy Trinity. Three domes, three crosses, three rooms in the interior and three doors leading below the iconostasis are all typical features. The three domes rise in height from east to west, with the doorway facing west, also a typical feature of Greek-Catholic design. The iconostasis is of baroque style, designed in the late 18th century, while some of the icons date from the 17th century.
The church was badly damaged in World War Two, and extensive reconstruction work was undertaken in 1969 and 1970, and further renovations were necessary in 2001. Standing next to the church there is a tall wooden belfry with bells that are rung daily. The church and belfry were originally surrounded by a log fence, though today there is a more modern metal fence. The village of Šemetkovce is set in lovely hilly scenery and has a few old-fashioned folk cottages along its laneways.
The village can be reached by bus from Svidník just a few times a day from Monday to Friday, and there are no buses on Saturday or Sunday. Another option if you are without your own vehicle is to take the bus from Svidník to Ladomirová (be sure to stop and see the wooden church in that village as well) and then try to hitch-hike the last seven kilometres to Šemetkovce. That's how I did it when I visited, there were no problems getting a lift from some of the locals since the roads are small and everybody knows everybody else in this region. There are hiking trails which connect together many of the villages with wooden churches in the Svidník region, and it is possible to hike from Šemetkovce across to Kožuchovce village, close to Miroľa village with its wonderful wooden church.

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Classic Castles # 3 - Gori, Georgia

The oval-shaped fortress of Gori stands high on a rocky hill in the centre of the Georgian city of the same name. The current structure dates from the 13th century, though the hilltop site is thought to have been fortified since the 1st century BC. Locals claim the fortress was conquered by the Romans in the 1st century AD. In the 16th century it was captured by the Ottoman Turks, and the fortress changed hands many times in the following centuries with periods of control by the Georgians, Turks and Persians.
The territory of Georgia was annexed by the Russians in 1801, and the Russian army kept a garrison of soldiers in the castle. By the mid-19th century the fortress had been abandoned, and it slowly fell into ruin. A major earthquake in 1920 caused significant damage to the structure. The castle interior has not been preserved, and today there is little to see inside the walls.
However, the steep climb up to the fortress is well worth the effort for the superb view it provides across all of Gori and the green countryside beyond. The castle is permanently open to the public, and there is no admission fee. The trail leading to the top begins on the side of the castle closest to the central square, so if you are approaching it from the bus/marshrutka station you will need to walk around the base of the hill to the other side.
Gori is connected by bus and marshrutka with most other major cities in Georgia. It is possible to visit Gori as a daytrip from Tbilisi, taking a marshrutka there and back. Trains also connect the city with Tbilisi and the Black Sea coast, but they are infrequent and slow and not really a convenient way to travel, particularly to Tbilisi. Gori's other major attraction for tourists is the Stalin museum, dedicated to the life of the Soviet leader who was born in the city.

Monday, January 3, 2011

Beautiful Towns # 7 - Cetinje, Montenegro

Cetinje is a pretty town with a proud history in the mountainous interior of Montenegro. A former capital of the Montenegrin kingdom, it is considered to be the spiritual and religious heart of this small Mediterranean nation. Cetinje was somewhat surprised to find itself declared a capital city when Montenegro's independence was declared in 1878. At the time it had a population of just 6,000, which made it the world's smallest capital.
Many grandly designed embassies and government buildings were erected during this period which still grace the streets of the town today. During the communist period the capital of the Montenegrin socialist republic of Yugoslavia was moved to Titograd (now Podgorica), and Cetinje was left to become a peaceful small town once more. Today the population is about 15,000, but the town continues to have an expanded national importance in the modern Montenegrin state due to its status as the former royal capital.
The stone Cetinje Monastery is the seat of the Orthodox church in Montenegro. It was first built in 1701 and was destroyed repeatedly in a series of Turkish invasions, but was always faithfully rebuilt by the local inhabitants. The monastery houses the relics of Saint Peter of Cetinje, an important figure in Montenegrin history. Another church of historical interest is the Vlach church, built in 1450. It is encircled by a symbolic fence made from the barrels of enemy rifles captured during the fight for independence from the Ottoman Turks. Another noteworthy building in Cetinje is the Palace of King Nicholas I, which today provides a home for The National Museum of Montenegro. The museum features extensive exhibits (with some English-language labelling) on the history of the struggle for national independence.
The town is an essential stop on a tour of Montenegro in order to get a full impression of this pint-sized country's sense of self. Cetinje can be reached by bus from most parts of Montenegro, with many daily connections from Podgorica and Budva. It makes an excellent day-trip from Kotor or Budva on the coast.

Sunday, January 2, 2011

Remarkable Relics of Communism # 6 - Prague, Czech Republic

In the Royal Garden next to Prague Castle, not far from the Royal Summer Residence, you will find the Royal Ball Game Hall. This building dates from the 16th century and was used by the king's courtiers for sporting activities. The structure was damaged by fire in May 1945 during the last stages of World War Two, but it was fully rebuilt in the 1950's. Along with the many mythological deities that were carefully restored on the facade, a small addition was made that remains as a quirky reminder of the communist period. A figure unfurling a scroll meant to be a five-year plan with a hammer and sickle was included in the design, together with the letters 'ČSR', for Czechoslovak Socialist Republic. This is a detail that you have to look closely to find (it's along the top row of the facade near the roof), so be sure to stop and take a closer look if you are visiting Prague Castle.

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Amazing Architecture # 1 - Garni Temple, Armenia

This Greco-Roman temple sits near the edge of a cliff above a deep canyon in Garni, a small village 32km east of Yerevan. The stunning mountainous landscape which surrounds it greatly enhances the beauty of the temple itself. Most likely it was originally constructed in the 1st century AD by King Tiridates I of Armenia using funds he received from the Roman Emperor Nero, and was dedicated to the heathen God Mithra.
The temple was sacked when the region was conquered by Timur Lenk in 1386, and in 1679 the temple was levelled by an earthquake. Most of the original columns and building blocks remained at the site until the 20th century, and the temple was reconstructed under the guidance of Soviet archeologists between 1969 and 1975. The sloped roof of the temple is supported by 24 Ionic columns which sit on an elevated podium.
The blocks of the temple are made of basalt, and it is possible to distinguish between the original bocks and the modern replacements by the lack of carving on the newer stones. Several Christian churches, a palace and a bathhouse were built around the temple after the adoption of Christianity in Armenia in the year 301 AD. These buildings are now in ruins, but floor mosaics can still be seen in the bathhouse. A series of fortification walls made of huge basalt blocks protected the temple complex, and together with its location on a triangular outcrop above the valley, the site had superb defensive capabilities.
Garni can be reached by bus or marshrutka from Yerevan and makes a great daytrip from the capital. Many people go to see the temple in Garni while on the way to or from a visit to the Geghard Monastery. While in Garni village, another worthwhile sight that few tourists visit is the ruins of the fortified monastery of Havuts Tar.

Thursday, December 23, 2010

Surprising Signs # 5 - Čičmany, Slovakia

This menu qualifies as a vegetarian's worst nightmare - this is the vegetarian section, yet practically every item has some kind of meat in it. Bacon, sausage, ham... still vegetarian. It's a common sight in restaurant menus in rural parts of Slovakia, since a dish that contains meat but not as the primary ingredient is often still considered to be a 'vegetarian' option. Show this to any vegetarians you know to give them a fright... :)

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

Wooden Churches of the Carpathian Mountains # 8 - Równia, Poland

This former Greek-Catholic wooden church is found on a small hill in the village of Równia, located south of the town of Ustrzyki Dolne and a few kilometres from the Ukrainian border. It features a three-domed architectural style which is very rare on Polish territory, being more typical of Boyko-style churches found further east in Ukraine.
The church is thought to have been built in the early 18th century, and it would later suffer extensive damage during World War Two. Following the war, the Lemko and Boyko inhabitants of the village were accused of aiding the Ukrainian Insurgent Army, which was fighting the Polish government.
They were expelled from the region along with most of the Lemko and Boyko population of south-eastern Poland, and were sent to become new settlers in the recently-claimed former German territories granted to Poland at the end of the war. Thus the village of Równia lost its Greek-Catholic population, and the church was converted for use as a Roman Catholic church when Catholic Poles were resettled in the village.
This is one of the most unique wooden churches in the region of Małopolska (Little Poland), though the interior is much less remarkable than the exterior. The village is difficult to reach directly by public transport as it has very limited bus connections, but it is possible to walk to the village in about one hour by taking a hiking trail that begins at the edge of the town of Ustrzyki Dolne. There are also interesting wooden churches worth taking a look at in the surrounding villages of Ustjanowa Górna, Hoszowczyk and Hoszów.

Sunday, December 12, 2010

Classic Castles # 2 - Gýmeš, Slovakia

This large castle ruin sits on a wooded hilltop above the village of Jelenec in the Tribeč mountains, about 20 kilometres north-east of the city of Nitra. The current structure dates from around 1270, when it was constructed as a Gothic palace, although it was built on the site of an earlier fort.
The first owners were the Forgách family, who controlled the castle for several centuries. A peasant revolt against worsening living conditions and increased taxes in 1610 had to be suppressed by force by the Forgáchs. The Ottoman Turkish armies conquered the castle in 1530 and caused significant damage to it, and it was conquered again by the Turks in 1663. Following this period it was fully reconstructed and it remained in use up until the mid-19th century, when it was abandoned and slowly fell into ruin.
Today many parts of the structure remain intact, including several tunnels, standing arches and a chapel. The castle is slowly being reclaimed by the forest, and large trees are growing all through the structure. The castle can be reached on foot following the walking trail from the village of Jelenec, it's about a one hour walk up through the forest. Another access point is from the village of Kostoľany pod Tribečom, which is considerably closer to the castle and has a path leading there that requires a hike of about 45 minutes.
In the village of Kostoľany pod Tribečom there is an another worthwhile attraction to stop and see, the 11th century Romanesque church of St. George, which features design elements typical of the Great Moravian Empire period. Both Jelencec and Kostoľany pod Tribečom are accessible by bus from Nitra, with regular buses stopping in Jelenec which is near the main road heading east towards Banská Bystrica.