Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Amazing Architecture # 1 - Garni Temple, Armenia

This Greco-Roman temple sits near the edge of a cliff above a deep canyon in Garni, a small village 32km east of Yerevan. The stunning mountainous landscape which surrounds it greatly enhances the beauty of the temple itself. Most likely it was originally constructed in the 1st century AD by King Tiridates I of Armenia using funds he received from the Roman Emperor Nero, and was dedicated to the heathen God Mithra.
The temple was sacked when the region was conquered by Timur Lenk in 1386, and in 1679 the temple was levelled by an earthquake. Most of the original columns and building blocks remained at the site until the 20th century, and the temple was reconstructed under the guidance of Soviet archeologists between 1969 and 1975. The sloped roof of the temple is supported by 24 Ionic columns which sit on an elevated podium.
The blocks of the temple are made of basalt, and it is possible to distinguish between the original bocks and the modern replacements by the lack of carving on the newer stones. Several Christian churches, a palace and a bathhouse were built around the temple after the adoption of Christianity in Armenia in the year 301 AD. These buildings are now in ruins, but floor mosaics can still be seen in the bathhouse. A series of fortification walls made of huge basalt blocks protected the temple complex, and together with its location on a triangular outcrop above the valley, the site had superb defensive capabilities.
Garni can be reached by bus or marshrutka from Yerevan and makes a great daytrip from the capital. Many people go to see the temple in Garni while on the way to or from a visit to the Geghard Monastery. While in Garni village, another worthwhile sight that few tourists visit is the ruins of the fortified monastery of Havuts Tar.

Thursday, December 23, 2010

Surprising Signs # 5 - Čičmany, Slovakia

This menu qualifies as a vegetarian's worst nightmare - this is the vegetarian section, yet practically every item has some kind of meat in it. Bacon, sausage, ham... still vegetarian. It's a common sight in restaurant menus in rural parts of Slovakia, since a dish that contains meat but not as the primary ingredient is often still considered to be a 'vegetarian' option. Show this to any vegetarians you know to give them a fright... :)

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

Wooden Churches of the Carpathian Mountains # 8 - Równia, Poland

This former Greek-Catholic wooden church is found on a small hill in the village of Równia, located south of the town of Ustrzyki Dolne and a few kilometres from the Ukrainian border. It features a three-domed architectural style which is very rare on Polish territory, being more typical of Boyko-style churches found further east in Ukraine.
The church is thought to have been built in the early 18th century, and it would later suffer extensive damage during World War Two. Following the war, the Lemko and Boyko inhabitants of the village were accused of aiding the Ukrainian Insurgent Army, which was fighting the Polish government.
They were expelled from the region along with most of the Lemko and Boyko population of south-eastern Poland, and were sent to become new settlers in the recently-claimed former German territories granted to Poland at the end of the war. Thus the village of Równia lost its Greek-Catholic population, and the church was converted for use as a Roman Catholic church when Catholic Poles were resettled in the village.
This is one of the most unique wooden churches in the region of Małopolska (Little Poland), though the interior is much less remarkable than the exterior. The village is difficult to reach directly by public transport as it has very limited bus connections, but it is possible to walk to the village in about one hour by taking a hiking trail that begins at the edge of the town of Ustrzyki Dolne. There are also interesting wooden churches worth taking a look at in the surrounding villages of Ustjanowa Górna, Hoszowczyk and Hoszów.

Sunday, December 12, 2010

Classic Castles # 2 - Gýmeš, Slovakia

This large castle ruin sits on a wooded hilltop above the village of Jelenec in the Tribeč mountains, about 20 kilometres north-east of the city of Nitra. The current structure dates from around 1270, when it was constructed as a Gothic palace, although it was built on the site of an earlier fort.
The first owners were the Forgách family, who controlled the castle for several centuries. A peasant revolt against worsening living conditions and increased taxes in 1610 had to be suppressed by force by the Forgáchs. The Ottoman Turkish armies conquered the castle in 1530 and caused significant damage to it, and it was conquered again by the Turks in 1663. Following this period it was fully reconstructed and it remained in use up until the mid-19th century, when it was abandoned and slowly fell into ruin.
Today many parts of the structure remain intact, including several tunnels, standing arches and a chapel. The castle is slowly being reclaimed by the forest, and large trees are growing all through the structure. The castle can be reached on foot following the walking trail from the village of Jelenec, it's about a one hour walk up through the forest. Another access point is from the village of Kostoľany pod Tribečom, which is considerably closer to the castle and has a path leading there that requires a hike of about 45 minutes.
In the village of Kostoľany pod Tribečom there is an another worthwhile attraction to stop and see, the 11th century Romanesque church of St. George, which features design elements typical of the Great Moravian Empire period. Both Jelencec and Kostoľany pod Tribečom are accessible by bus from Nitra, with regular buses stopping in Jelenec which is near the main road heading east towards Banská Bystrica.