Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Slovakia's Most Unique and Unusual Experiences


Following the list of the top 100 places to visit in Slovakia, I thought it would be useful to add a list of some of the most unique and strange experiences it's possible to have in the country. These are in no particular order, this is just a set of some of the most unusual or typically Slovak activities.

- See a Kamzik (Chamois) among the peaks of the Tatra Mountains

- See the quirkiest examples of communist-era architecture, such as the Slovak Radio building, the Hotel Kiev basement lounge, the Mladá Garda student housing complex, and the Štefánik airport private diplomatic arrivals area (all in Bratislava)

- Visit the supposed "Centre of Europe" site in Kremnické Bane

- Sit on a WW2 Russian tank in the "Valley of Death" north of Svidník

- Go mushroom picking with a group of locals in the Low Tatras, Malá Fatra, or the Malé Karpaty mountain ranges

- See the annual folk festival in Východná

- Go to an ice hockey game in Trenčín, the country's hockey hotbed

- Jump over a campfire holding an axe

- Learn how to cook Bryndzové Halušky

- Drive or have a ride in a 1980's-era Škoda car

- Learn about the Slovak Robin Hood, the outlaw Juraj Jánošík, and stand next to his metal statue on the hill in Terchova

- Put a carp in your bathtub at Christmas time

- Carry one of the scales from a Christmas carp in your wallet to bring good fortune throughout the year

- Follow the former line of the Iron Curtain along the Morava river north of Devín, plenty of old fence posts, wire and bunker emplacements can be seen

- Visit Príkra, the smallest village in Slovakia, population 7. It's north of Svidník near the Polish border, and has an impressive wooden church.

- See and photograph the best communist-era murals found in the country's train stations

- Visit the terrific guitar museum in the far-eastern town of Sobrance

- Watch someone play a Fujara, or better yet, have a lesson and give it a try for yourself

- Attend the Festival of Ghosts and Monsters held at Bojnice Castle

- Watch or take part in the traditional custom of pig killing on a farm in Orava or Kysuce region

- Watch or take part in the high-speed hay-cutting championships (done in the traditional manner with a scythe) held in Terchová

- Learn to appreciate the fine taste of a glass of Kofola

- Hike along the Cesta Hrdinov SNP trail (National Uprising Trail of Heroes) to reach the Dukla Pass

- See an opera in the old opera house in Bratislava, or in the Košice opera house

- See a concert by local Slovak bands, I'd suggest Longital or Žive Kvety

- Hear a concert by the Slovak Philharmonic in Bratislava, world-class performances for a great price

- Hike to the peak on the border where Slovakia, Poland and Ukraine meet, north of Nová Sedlica in the far north-east corner of the country

- visit the Chatam Sofer Jewish memorial in Bratislava

- Sample some of the country's lesser-known beers, such as Martiner or Tatran

- Visit Luník IX, the Roma ghetto in a Košice suburb, to get a first-hand impression of the difficulties these people face in Slovak society

- Learn how to operate a communist-era Tatramat washing machine

- Watch a shepherd tending a flock of sheep or goats in the mountain pastures of Orava region

- See the Good Soldier Švejk statue at the train station in Humenné

- Visit the village and train station in Čierna nad Tisou, the end of the main train line on the Ukrainian border

- Wait for the bus at the Campbell's soup tin-shaped bus stop outside the Andy Warhol museum in Medzilaborce

- Visit the museum house in the village of Uhrovec where two major Slovak figures were born, L'udovit Štúr and Alexander Dubček

- See some of the collection of communist-era cars displayed by the Košice Trabant club

- Visit the Romanesque chapel in the village of Kopčany, the oldest church in the country, dating from the 9th century during the Great Moravian Empire

- Ride one of the old red-and-cream coloured Czechoslovak trams in Bratislava or Košice

Monday, February 22, 2010

Photo Challenge # 1 - Name this location in Eastern Europe


I'm starting a regular picture hunt here on The Goulash Train - can you name the location in the picture? All of them will be of destinations in Eastern Europe, most of them will be little-known places, but this first one is quite a large city - do you know it???

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Slovakia's 100 Best Destinations - From Skalica to Uličské Krivé and all points in between


As a long-time Slovak resident, I've been to pretty much every corner of this small nation, from Skalica to Uličské Krivé and all points in between. I've tried to include a good mix of cultural, historical and natural sights, for this country has plenty to offer in all three categories, or everything except a sea, as the Slovaks themselves like to say. This list reflects each destination's appeal to the average tourist as well as including most of my own favourites. Enjoy!

1. The High Tatra Mountains - alpine peaks with hiking and climbing opportunities that rival anything in Europe. Wildlife spotting along the trails in some of the more remote parts of the park is almost guaranteed.

2. Spiš Castle - The nation's most spectacular castle, and one of the largest in central Europe. Now a ruin, it dominates the town of Spišské Podhradie from its position on a wind-swept hilltop. Spišská Kapitula is found on the hill opposite, a complex of churches and monasteries surrounded by old stone walls that adds a counterpoint to the castle's dominance of the landscape.

3. Banská Štiavnica - A medieval mining town that has managed to retain almost all of its splendour and unique character. Beautiful pastel-coloured buildings spread across a hillside, with two castles in their midst and a hilltop pilgrimage church within view.

4. Bardejov - A perfectly-preserved Saxon town centre, with a cathedral and town hall positioned on a cobbled main square of burgher houses covered in sgraffito facades. The town's set of medieval walls, towers and fortifications is nearly complete, making for a stunning view from the nearby hills.

5. Levoča - A small town par excellence, with a perfect set of medieval fortifications and small winding cobbled lanes. The world's largest wooden altar can be seen in the town's main church.

6. Bratislava - The capital and hub of the country's modern development. The old town quarter is a maze of small streets connecting several large cobbled squares. It has the best restaurants and pubs the country has to offer, and plenty of worthwhile museums. Socialist-era architecture surrounds much of the centre, but a few buildings from this period, notably the National Radio Building, are quirky enough to warrant taking a look at. The town's castle sits on a hill above the Danube, overlooking the UFO-topped SNP bridge, known locally as Nový Most.

7. Čičmany - A small mountain village of wooden houses with a unique twist - most of the dark log homes are covered from top to bottom in white geometric folk designs based on the local patterns used in lacework and traditional costumes.

8. Vlkolínec - A UNESCO heritage-listed mountain village of wooden cottages that has remained untouched by modern development. Spending a night in a cottage here is a highly memorable experience.

9. Orava Castle - perched on a tiny blade of rock which sits high above the Orava river, this is one of the country's finest restored castles. Guided tours will take you through most of the castle's rooms, with superb views from the upper castle windows.

10. Slovenský Raj National Park-A series of steep river canyons amid the forested mountains, this is one of the most unique places for hiking in the country. A series of ladders and metal grids stuck into the cliffs allow you to hike right up the side of crashing waterfalls and through gorges that are strikingly misty and green.

11. Bojnice Castle - A fairy-tale castle in the tradition of French Loire valley castles, with an annual Ghosts and Monsters festival

12. Ždiar- A small village at the eastern end of the Tatra mountains, a perfect base for hiking trips to the nearby peaks. The village has many traditional wooden homes that are beautifully decorated, and has preserved many elements of the unique Goral mountain-peasant culture found in the region.

13. Malá Fatra National Park- Some of the best hiking outside the Tatras, with Vrátna Dolina being the most popular location.

14. Kremnica- A small town in a wooded valley dominated by a castle at its centre with a memorable tower to climb. Watch for the instructions given at the bottom of the stairs warning of the 'pretentious stairs'. The national mint is found on the leafy square that sits below the castle, while the old stone walls that encircle the square make for an impressive sight when viewed from the nearby hills.

15. Košice- The country's second city, with the most easterly Gothic Cathedral in Europe. The main square features many perfectly restored 16th to 18th century buildings, and the 'singing fountain' which plays music in time to the movement of the water jets.

16. Krásna Hôrka Castle and Andrássy Mausoleum- A restored hill-top castle with a commanding view of the countryside. The nearby mausoleum is an art-nouveau masterpiece.

17. Devín Castle- A castle perched on a cliff above the Danube river near Bratislava.

18. Pieniny National Park - An ideal place to experience rafting on a traditional wooden raft, steered by oarsmen in traditional costumes.

19. Trenčín- A pretty settlement on the Váh river with a cliff-top castle that dominates the town.

20. Spišská Kapitula - found on the hill opposite Spiš castle, a complex of churches and monasteries surrounded by old stone walls that adds a counterpoint to the castle's dominance of the landscape.

21. Čachtice Castle- A hill-top castle ruin associated with the blood-thirsty deeds of the Countess Báthory.

22. Špania Dolina- A traditional medieval mining village just north of Banská Bystrica.

23. Spišská Sobota- Nowadays a suburb of Poprad, this village square is one of the finest in the Spiš region, with many well-restored merchant houses.

24. Kežmarok- A Saxon town in the Spiš region with an impressive castle and old town, and probably the finest Evangelical wooden church in the country.

25. Slovenský Kras Caves- This series of caves near Rožňava include the bizarre Argonite cave with unusual stone formations, and a chain of caves that run under the border into Hungary.

26. Piešťany- The country's finest spa town, popular with German and Austrian visitors. A man breaking his crutch after being treated with the healing waters is the town's symbol.

27. Banská Bystrica- A large town in the hills of central Slovakia, with a memorable main square and castle. The museum of the Slovak National Uprising details the struggle to free the country from Nazi occupation during World War II.

28. Strečno Castle- A cliff-top ruin on the Váh river, east of Žilina.

29. Andy Warhol Museum in Medzilaborce- One of the strangest places in the world to find a major art gallery, with many famous works by Warhol displayed. His parents came from a small village a few kilometres from the town.

30. Zuberec- A village in Orava region, this is a great base for hikes in the western part of the Tatras and has an outdoor folk museum of wooden homes and churches.

31. Beckov Castle- A mighty ruin dominating the small village below it, this castle is also associated with the Countess Báthory, accused of many grisly deeds.

32. Terchová- A small village in the Malá Fatra mountains that is famous as the home of the 'Slovak Robin Hood' hero Juraj Jánošík. His statue sits on a hill above the town. This is a great place to see traditional Slovak music and customs, as there is a major annual folk festival and many smaller events throughout the year. This is also a god base for hiking in the Vratná valley.

33. Bardejovské Kúpele- A spa town just north of Bardejov, with an excellent folk architecture museum containing two Greek-Catholic wooden churches.

34. Demänovská Valley - South of Liptovský Mikulaš, this is a major outdoor recreation area with hiking trails, winter skiing, and several unique caves.

35. Ladomirová - One of the finest Rusyn wooden churches in the country, found north of Svidník near the Polish border.

36. Danubiana Art Gallery in Čunovo- An art gallery at the end of Slovakia, or that's how it feels as you walk out to its island location in the middle of the Danube. Showcasing the best in Slovak modern art with regularly-changing installations and many international exhibitions.

37. Poloniny National Park- An untouched corner of the country in the far north-east, this region has excellent hiking and many traditional Rusyn villages to explore.

38. Nitra- 'The Mother of Slovak towns', as it is called here, has a castle on a hill at its centre with a history that dates back to the Great Moravian Empire and the arrival of the Saints Cyril and Methodius who created the Cyrillic alphabet.

39. Červený Kameň Castle- A square-sided castle in the Small Carpathians, it has huge corner towers that protected it through many invasions.

40. Dukla Pass World War 2 monuments- This region was heavily defended by the Germans, and thousands of Russian and Czechoslovak troops died trying to capture it. Today there is a viewing tower and huge memorial to the victors, and many tanks and military vehicles lie scattered across the surrounding landscape, left where they came to rest in the fighting and restored as a part of the memorial.

41. Hervartov - A small village south of Bardejov featuring a Roman Catholic wooden church, the oldest wooden church in Slovakia.

42. Betliar- A palace that has been superbly renovated, with an extensive collection of exotic items collected from around the globe. Large gardens and parks with a man-made waterfall surround the palace.

43. Plavecký Castle- A ruin found in the Small Carpathian range which is in very good condition.

44. Hronsek - A village between Zvolen and Banská Bystrica which contains an evangelical wooden church with UNESCO heritage status.

45. Pribylina Folk Architecture Outdoor Museum- A collection of wooden homes and a stone church and manor house with the Tatra mountains as a backdrop.

46. Smolenice Castle- A restored castle in the Small Carpathians, with a tall central tower.

47. Modra- An attractive small town famous for its wine production.

48. Trnava- A walled town nick-named 'The Slovak Rome' - although the name is a bit much to live up to, the town has many beautiful churches.

49. Miroľa - a small village north of Svidník featuring a fantastic Greek-Catholic wooden church.

50. Gýmeš Castle- A castle ruin east of Nitra, with great views.

51. Dobroslava - A village north of Svidník with a superb Greek-Catholic wooden church.

52. Skalica- A town near the Czech border with a pleasant old town and central square, and a Romanesque rotunda.

53. Východná - a town in the Tatra mountain region made famous by its annual folk festival.

54. Lietava Castle- A huge castle ruin south of Žilina.

55. Žilina - A large town with an enjoyable old town square and Budatín Castle on its outskirts.

56. Ruská Bystrá - A remote Rusyn village near the Ukrainian border featuring a UNESCO-listed wooden church.

57. Zvolen- A large town in central Slovakia with a well-fortified castle and a huge town square.

58. Detva - A small town known for its folk festival and preservation of folk traditions.

59. Stará Ľubovňa Castle- A half-ruin above the town of Stará Ľubovňa with a folk architecture museum on the grassy plain below.

60. Žehra - A UNESCO-listed church with a unique onion dome and inerior frescoes, found just south of Spiš castle.

61. Trenčianske Teplice- A spa town surrounded by forested hills with a relaxed atmosphere.

62. Podbiel- A village in Orava region that has a wonderful collection of traditional wooden folk cottages.

63. Brhlovce- A village east of Levice that contains several cave houses; the locals dug their way into the cliff faces around the town for protection from invaders, and several still remain today, including one that has been turned into a museum.

64. Bodružal - A village north of Svidník with a UNESCO-listed wooden church.

65. Svidník Folk Architecture Outdoor Museum- A collection of Rusyn farm buildings and homes, with one of the region's finest wooden churches.

66. Dobšiná Ice Cave- A cave south of the Slovak Paradise National Park.

67. Prešov-A major city of eastern Slovakia, with an impressive main square and several orthodox churches.

68. Komárno- A town along the Danube river with a large ethnic Hungarian population. It has a large fortress and the European square, featuring a set of buildings in many different national European architectural styles.

69. Osturňa- A small village north of Ždiar near the Polish border with many preserved wooden folk cottages.

70. Dobrá Voda Castle- A large castle ruin in the Small Carpathians

71. Nižný Komárnik - A village north of Svidník with an unusual wooden church.

72. Martin - A town featuring the National Folk Architecture Outdoor Museum, the main branch of the National Museum, and the National Cemetery.

73. Slovak Bethlehem Wooden Diorama in Rajecká Lesná- A diorama made entirely of wood that contains moving parts in the scene.

74. Dražovce - A beautiful Romanesque church on a hilltop north of Nitra.

75. Tvrdošín - A town in Orava region with a UNESCO-listed wooden church.

76. Lednický Castle- A ruin on a steep cliff-edge near the Czech border.

77. Svätý Kríž - A village in Liptov region with an Evangelical wooden church which was moved to its present location to save it when the Liptovská Mara reservoir was constructed.

78. Humenné Folk Architecture Outdoor Museum- A collection of Rusyn houses and a wooden church.

79. Likava Castle- A large castle ruin north of Ružomberok.

80. Rusovce - a village featuring a Roman Legion Camp Museum and a bizarre palace.

81. Topoľčianske Castle- A spectacular castle ruin with a tall central tower.

82. Budmerice Palace- An impressive palace west of Trnava.

83. Pezinok - A town near Bratislava that is famous for its wine festival.

84. Slovenská Ľupča Castle- A large restored castle east of Banská Bystrica.

85. Leštiny - A village in Orava region with a UNESCO-listed Evangelical wooden church.

86. Červený Kláštor Monastery- A monastery found in Pieniny national park, one of the oldest in the country.

87. Spišský Štvrtok - A town with a Romanesque church in Spiš region.

88. Tokaj Wine Region- Found in the far east along the Hungarian border, this region produces some of the country's best wines.

89. M.R. Štefáník Monument in Brezová pod Bradlom- A stone monument on a ridge built for a defining figure in Slovak history. Štefáník was instrumental in the creation of the Czechoslovak state after World War I.

90. Uličské Krivé - A small village near the Ukrainian border with a wooden church.

91. Hronský Beňadik Monastery- A town featuring a hill-top monastery.

92. Svätý Jur- a pretty small town near Bratislava with plenty of good wine on offer.

93. Hrabová Roztoka - a village near the Ukrainian border with a wooden church and several orthodox churches.

94. Vychylovka Folk Architecture Outdoor Museum - A set of wood and stone buildings and a forest railway in Kysuce region.

95. Šomoška Castle- A ruin sitting directly on the Hungarian border south of Lučenec.

96. Frička - a village north-west of Bardejov with a large wooden church.

97. Jasov Monastery- A monastery found west of Košice in a small town.

98. Strážky Palace- A white fortress-like palace north of Kežmarok.

99. Ruský Potok - A small village near the Ukrainian border with a well-restored wooden church.

100. Podolínec- A town north of Kežmarok with traditional Spiš-style architecture.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

The Ultimate List - Eastern Europe's Top 200 Destinations


I've thought long and hard while putting this together, thinking about what it is about a place that makes it stick firmly in my memory for years afterwards. Sometimes it's the grandness of the architecture (Lviv, Ukraine), sometimes it's the beauty and grace of the landscape that surrounds it (Kazbegi, Georgia), sometimes it's the warmth of the people or a memorable local character (Zdiar, Slovakia), and sometimes it's just the outright weirdness of the place (Hunedoara, Romania). I've organised them based on how appealing I think they are for the average tourist to experience; I've included destinations from the European half of Russia and from the Caucasus countries. Be sure to let me know if I forgot one of your favourite places!

1. Prague, Czech Republic
2. Krakow, Poland
3. Budapest, Hungary
4. St. Petersburg, Russia
5. Dubrovnik, Croatia
6. Lviv, Ukraine
7. Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina
8. Moscow, Russia
9. Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic
10. Suzdal, Russia
11. Tallinn, Estonia
12. Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina
13. Kyiv, Ukraine
14. Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria
15. Kotor, Montenegro
16. Ohrid, Macedonia
17. The High Tatra Mountains, Slovakia/Poland
18. Tbilisi, Georgia
19. Gdansk, Poland
20. Berat, Albania
21. Hvar, Croatia
22. Wroclaw, Poland
23. Riga, Latvia
24. Ljubljana, Slovenia
25. Kazbegi, Georgia
26. Brasov, Romania
27. Kamyanets Podilsky, Ukraine
28. Piran, Slovenia
29. Vilnius, Lithuania
30. Sighisoara, Romania
31. Rostov Veliky, Russia
32. Plovdiv, Bulgaria
33. Mtskheta, Georgia
34. Plitvice Lakes, Croatia
35. Telc, Czech Republic
36. Sergiev Posad, Russia
37. Rila Mountains and Monastery, Bulgaria
38. Bled, Slovenia
39. Wieliczka Salt Mine, Poland
40. Painted Monasteries of Bucovina, Romania
41. Torun, Poland
42. Spis Castle, Slovakia
43. Malbork Castle, Poland
44. Eger, Hungary
45. Karlstejn Castle, Czech Republic
46. Sibiu, Romania
47. Durmitor National Park, Montenegro
48. Warsaw, Poland
49. Novgorod, Russia
50. Trakai, Lithuania
51. Loket, Czech Republic
52. Koprivstitsa, Bulgaria
53. Curonian Spit, Lithuania/Russia
54. Mikulov, Czech Republic
55. Split, Croatia
56. Banska Stiavnica, Slovakia
57. Esztergom, Hungary
58. Gjirokastra, Albania
59. Zamosc, Poland
60. Rovinj, Croatia
61. Levoca, Slovakia
62. Korcula, Croatia
63. Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic
64. Yaroslavl, Russia
65. Bardejov, Slovakia
66. Khor Virap Monastery, Armenia
67. Zadar, Croatia
68. Wooden churches of Maramures Region, Romania
69. Kruja, Albania
70. Kizhi Island, Russia
71. Odesa, Ukraine
72. Bratislava, Slovakia
73. Olomouc, Czech Republic
74. Zagreb, Croatia
75. Kazan, Russia
76. Sofia, Bulgaria
77. Poznan, Poland
78. Jajce, Bosnia-Herzegovina
79. Yalta, Ukraine
80. Belgrade, Serbia
81. Bakhchysaray, Ukraine
82. Wooden Churches of Presov Region, Slovakia
83. Vladimir, Russia
84. Tryavna, Bulgaria
85. Geghard Monastery, Armenia
86. Fagaras Mountains, Romania
87. Pecs, Hungary
88. Gori, Georgia
89. Sigulda, Latvia
90. Kutna Hora, Czech Republic
91. Tirana, Albania
92. Garni, Armenia
93. Szentendre, Hungary
94. Plyos, Russia
95. Noravank Monastery, Armenia
96. Wooden Churches of Malopolska, Poland
97. Travnik, Bosnia-Herzegovina
98. Ceske Budejovice, Czech Republic
99. Kazimierz Dolny, Poland
100. Kosice, Slovakia
101. Biertan, Romania
102. Echmiadzin, Armenia
103. Tartu, Estonia
104. Herceg Novi, Montenegro
105. Kolomyya, Ukraine
106. Khotyn Castle, Ukraine
107. Orava Castle, Slovakia
108. Uglich, Russia
109. Porec, Croatia
110. Trebinje, Bosnia-Herzegovina
111. Krivoklat Castle, Czech Republic
112. Prejmer, Romania
113. Cicmany, Slovakia
114. Bran Castle, Romania
115. Stramberk, Czech Republic
116. Budva, Montenegro
117. Sapanta, Romania
118. Vlkolinec, Slovakia
119. Visegrad, Hungary
120. Tabor, Czech Republic
121. Haghpat Monastery, Armenia
122. Sinaia, Romania
123. Bojnice Castle, Slovakia
124. Pereslavl Zalessky, Russia
125. Slavonice, Czech Republic
126. Krasna Horka Castle, Slovakia
127. Lednice/Valtice Area, Czech Republic
128. Saaremaa Island, Estonia
129. Szeged, Hungary
130. Pula, Croatia
131. Lublin, Poland
132. Sopron, Hungary
133. Zdiar, Slovakia
134. Pernstejn Castle, Czech Republic
135. Wooden Churches of Transcarpathia Region, Ukraine
136. Bitola, Macedonia
137. Prizren, Kosovo
138. Skocjan Caves, Slovenia
139. Trencin, Slovakia
140. Litomysl, Czech Republic
141. Kostroma, Russia
142. Orheil Vechi, Moldova
143. Kremnica, Slovakia
144. Mljet Island, Croatia
145. Skopje, Macedonia
146. Yerevan, Armenia
147. Cetinje, Montenegro
148. Chernivtsi, Ukraine
149. Blagaj, Bosnia-Herzegovina
150. Brno, Czech Republic
151. Kezmarok, Slovakia
152. Bucharest, Romania
153. Pskov, Russia
154. Czestochowa, Poland
155. Lancut Castle, Poland
156. Timisoara, Romania
157. Spania Dolina, Slovakia
158. Hunedoara, Romania
159. Minsk, Belarus
160. Viscri, Romania
161. Vologda, Russia
162. Cluj-Napoca, Romania
163. Butrint, Albania
164. Lake Bohinj, Slovenia
165. Solovetsky Monastery, Russia
166. Nesebar, Bulgaria
167. Monasteries of Fruska Gora, Serbia
168. Ptuj, Slovenia
169. The Hill of Crosses near Siauliai, Lithuania
170. Nizny Novgorod, Russia
171. Arbanasi, Armenia
172. Konopiste Castle, Czech Republic
173. Ostrog Monastery, Montenegro
174. Sozopol, Bulgaria
175. Trogir, Croatia
176. Sheki, Azerbaijan
177. Rasnov Castle, Romania
178. Pannonhalma Monastery, Hungary
179. Adrspach-Teplice Rock Towns, Czech Republic
180. Shkodra, Albania
181. Ulcinj, Montenegro
182. Baku, Azerbaijan
183. Terezin, Czech Republic
184. Bogolyubovo, Russia
185. Lake Matka, Macedonia
186. Gyor, Hungary
187. Kromeriz, Czech Republic
188. Iasi, Romania
189. Brest, Belarus
190. Litomerice, Czech Republic
191. Kecskemet, Hungary
192. Betliar Chateau, Slovakia
193. Cesis, Latvia
194. Peja, Kosovo
195. Holloko, Hungary
196. Mir Castle, Belarus
197. Chisinau, Moldova
198. Bieszczady National Park, Poland
199. Kaunas, Lithuania
200. Batumi, Georgia

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

On the Road in Albania - Bring out the Fried Goat Entrails!


Staring across the sparkling waters of lovely Lake Ohrid to the mysterious mountains on the Albanian shore, blood feuds and Kalashnikov rifle barrels were the upper-most images I held in my mind. The country has long had a reputation for being on the brink of beyond, a black hole on the map of Europe that is little-known except for the strong whiff of negative stereotypes. It certainly didn't help that we'd heard all the horror stories from the local Macedonians back in Ohrid. No buses or trains ran over this part of the border; the only way in was to walk, carrying your bags with you. The border point sits on a beautiful mountainous stretch of coastline along the side of the lake that is shared by the Albanians and Macedonians; old bunker emplacements from the days of dictator Enver Hoxha were visible among the trees clinging to the hilltops on the Albanian side. A quick stamp in the passport and we were in, no chaos of surging crowds or fast-talking fake goods hawkers like I'd expected at such a border post. We were casually approached by one ageing taxi driver who was parked just past the border gate; he tossed aside his cigarette, cracked a smile full of yellow teeth and addressed us in Albanian at a rapid clip. He offered to take us to the nearest village, or if we were willing, all the way to the capital, Tirana. A friendly Finnish couple who had also just crossed the border agreed to share the taxi fare straight to Tirana with me. The motor-mouth driver offered to take us there for about five Euros each, which seemed remarkable given that it was a four hour trip. His car was a rusty old Mercedes, a common sight on the country's roads; supposedly the import of stolen cars from Germany was a major part of the economy back in the 90's. We agreed to the deal, holding up our fingers to show him the amount we were willing to pay. He loaded our bags into the back, we got all four doors tightly closed, and we were off like a jet airplane heading down the runway. With the gas pedal mashed to the floor and dangling a cigarette out the window, our new friend Alek talked away at us in a steady stream of Albanian for much of the trip, it didn't seem to bother him that we couldn't respond with more than shiny smiles. When he eventually tired of trying to make us understand his views on global politics, he called someone up on his mobile phone so he could carry on with a more receptive listener. He kept stabbing his cigarette like a pointer to show us passing points of interest, like hundreds of spherical concrete bunkers embedded into a hillside, bony skeletons left in the desert. There were amazing numbers of them, sometimes hundreds grouped together in complex geometric patterns across the dry, rolling hillsides. They were envisioned by Hoxha as the first line of defence for the isolationist nation if it were ever to come under attack. Every able-bodied male was given a Kalashnikov and was expected to jump bravely into his assigned bunker when the time came. This has led to the rather alarming statistic that nowadays every third person in the country owns a Kalashnikov; it has also presented a problem for modern Albanians who have bunkers present on their land - they are almost impossible to destroy, and are now considered a general nuisance. Some of the larger ones have been converted into homes, but most sit marooned and forgotten as eyesores in every corner of the country, from flat farm fields to craggy mountain passes. Alek was particularly keen to show off the giant grey steelworks in the soot-covered city of Elbasan, as it turned out to be his hometown. We got out at the side of the road on a barren hilltop above the steelmills for photos and a breath of something like air. Most of the trip involved climbing up one side of a mountain, and then descending down onto the plains on the other side. Alek had a habit of overtaking scrap metal-filled trucks and horsecarts full of hay on blind corners at high speed; he seemed to know what he was doing, so we only shouted out at him when certain death seemed particularly imminent. We arrived in Tirana in good time, entering the city through the outer districts of thrown together makeshift houses, most with a tin roof, fibre-board wooden walls, and a dirt floor. Apparently the city's population has tripled since the end of socialist times (to 700 000) and illegal housing developments have mushroomed around the capital. The roads were sometimes more akin to obstacle courses, and Alek spent as much time driving on the sandy shoulders as in the lanes. When we reached the city centre, the buildings were of a more permanent nature, but the roads remained much the same. He took us right through the main square of the city, a huge plaza with a giant Albanian flag flying and a triumphant statue of Skanderbeg, the national hero who led a revolt against Turkish invaders. A huge socialist-realist painting depicting the proud 2000-year history of the Albanian people stood out on the front of a museum. We couldn't find our hostel at first, since there are basically no street signs or house numbers in Albania (apparently they were all ripped down and sold as scrap metal in the crisis days of the 1990's). The central square and the main boulevard in Tirana were the only places with signs in place that we could see; the boulevard is named George W. Bush boulevard, named in his honour after he visited the city in 2007; Kosovar Albanians have a soft spot for Americans as well, there were large building-sized pictures of Bill Clinton there to remember his help in ending the conflict against the Serbs in 1999. Eventually we found the hostel with the help of a guidebook map and the local knowledge of Alek, who somehow knew all the names of the dusty streets even without any visible signs. We got out and saluted Alek and paid him our fare, with a good tip. He gave a spirited wave with his mobile clamped to his ear and drove off on the return journey to his home in Elbasan. We wondered how often he made this sort of trip with foreign travellers, and if it could be a daily event in the summer season for him, this trip half-way across the country and back again.

The following afternoon, having mastered the Albanian phrase for "I want to go to..." in the Tirana bus terminal, I found myself in the small town of Kruja, perched on a mountain north of Tirana (it was the castle stronghold of the hero Skanderbeg in his fight against the Turkish hordes). I wanted to spend the afternoon walking the beaches in Durres, and needed to go by Furgon, the local word for a minibus. Driving down the mountainside in a fully-packed Furgon, holding on to the seat for stability, I got into a sign-language conversation with one of the passengers sitting next to me. Foreigners are a great curiosity in Albania, and many people would try to communicate with me, usually without using any spoken language (Italian is the one foreign language most Albanians learn, due to the huge numbers who go to work in Italy). He was a blurry-eyed security-guard who sometimes protected the Albanian president, he was doing his best to tell me. I didn't believe him at first, he seemed to be making drunken boasts, so he took out his security badge for the Albanian parliament to show me. It had a boyish image of him next to a picture of the parliament in Tirana. Then from his belt he pulled out a gun (!) and proceeded to aim it out the window of the minibus in full-on James Bond style, for my viewing benefit. He then shoved it recklessly back into his belt loop, and went on to tell me about his cousin in Toronto like nothing had happened. I was rather relieved when he vigorously shook my hand and got out in the next village; the last I saw of the Albanian 007 he was headed for the local pub, in search of a martini I suppose.

On my last evening in Tirana, I wanted to try some traditional Albanian food, as few restaurants offered it. Heading out into the streets with the Finnish couple, we followed the directions we'd been given by the hostel folks until we stumbled over it down a side-lane. In the low-lit restaurant we sat on padded benches slung around a large round table. Our waiter, who turned out to be the owner and one of the country's most celebrated film directors, spoke to us in Italian as he hoped we might understand him better. He didn't bother us with the menus, but promised to bring a proper Albanian feast. He brought a steady stream of hard-to-identify dishes to our table. The highlights of the meal (and I wasn't informed of exactly what we had eaten until it was too late) included boiled sheep's heart (rather rubbery, I didn't like it), and roasted goat intestines on a skewer (which I did like actually, until I heard what they were). We left feeling that we had properly experienced Albanian cuisine, certainly not a meal I would like to have every night, but a wonderful change from the ordinary!